suzannajean Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 The humidity is consistently producing a significant layer of mold on the underside of my plates. They need to dry for over a week, so it’s plenty of time for a whole ecosystem to grow. Unfortunately, the black mold often stains the clay all the way to the completion of the glaze fire. Im using a birch plywood to build them on. It is untreated. Does anyone have any advice on how to treat the wood so I dont have to deal with this issue as much?! When I was working at another studio and using their boards, I rarely dealt with this. Now that i’m using my own boards consistently, it’s a major issue. Plus, black mold is just scary looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 Spray the board with hydrogen peroxide to kill the spores that are all over it. Impressive that it's able to stain through the glaze fire, the mold must be concentrating metals (which is common in fungi). I'd say killing the source is the only way to really control it, but mold spores are pervasive so control is about as good as you'll get. Can you flip them every day so that the mold doesn't have that moist stagnant surface to grow into? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeU Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 Would using boards cut from drywall solve the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 What cone do you fire to o8?Have to belive it makes it thru a glaze fire.What is the clay body?? you could switch to boat plywood -there are a few choices but most haane mahogany as a skin outerside which will not be prone to mold or wetness issues.Ash and birch are not good wet choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 22 hours ago, suzannajean said: the black mold often stains the clay all the way to the completion of the glaze fire Really unusual, I've never heard of this happening, curious to know if anybody else has had this happen? @suzannajean, could you post a picture of one of the glazed plates and a bit more info on your clay and if you are firing it to maturity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kraythe Posted September 28, 2019 Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 Did you consider pouring plaster based drying boards? I did and I am happier for it. Number 1 pottery plaster is essential. Its easy to make molds for round or rectangular planks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irene the Handbuilder Posted December 2, 2019 Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 I've switched to using "Hardibacker" cement board (comes in many different brands - check Home Depot) instead of drywall or wood for table surfaces and wareboards. It's the stuff used in place of drywall behind ceramic tiles in wet areas like bathrooms. Its cheap, doesn't risk chipping plaster into your work like drywall, doesn't warp like wood, and dries your work evenly like plaster. Since it was made to prevent mold in construction, I think it would be worth a try. It is great to wedge on, and for reclaiming wet clay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 2, 2019 Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 1 hour ago, Irene the Handbuilder said: I've switched to using "Hardibacker" cement board (comes in many different brands - check Home Depot) instead of drywall or wood for table surfaces and wareboards. It's the stuff used in place of drywall behind ceramic tiles in wet areas like bathrooms. Its cheap, doesn't risk chipping plaster into your work like drywall, doesn't warp like wood, and dries your work evenly like plaster. Since it was made to prevent mold in construction, I think it would be worth a try. It is great to wedge on, and for reclaiming wet clay. Chlorothalonil is a a surface agent used on some food products such as peanuts etc.... problem is many products used on wood are toxic and mold is everywhere. Liam’s kill it idea might work but the mold spores are likely everywhere so they will simply regrow in the environment. Killing spores on wood takes time, wiping the surface down will not kill them, they need soak time. Since the wood seems to be a good food source have you tried drywall, etc... If not, my best thought is a compound as above that is food safe. It won’t last forever though and will need reapplication. Maybe search natural fungicides and you will find one that is non toxic and effective for your mold growth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irene the Handbuilder Posted December 11, 2019 Report Share Posted December 11, 2019 Good points... I never assumed it was a "mold preventer" but use it as a great building surface for slabwork. I think it is a better alternative to wood or drywall re: mold, but hygiene practices are the only thing that will address mold growth I'm afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted December 11, 2019 Report Share Posted December 11, 2019 1 minute ago, Irene the Handbuilder said: Good points... I never assumed it was a "mold preventer" but use it as a great building surface for slabwork. I think it is a better alternative to wood or drywall re: mold, but hygiene practices are the only thing that will address mold growth I'm afraid. Air circulation. Mold spores are everywhere, and will grow regardless of hygiene! My wedging tables and wareboards are years old and have no mold, I just don't keep moist stagnant air around long enough I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 Any explanation how this is "surviving" a glaxe fire? Mould filtering some pigments and concentration? Contamination from studio pugments or metals. Photo post firinf and prefiring be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenKates Posted November 7, 2020 Report Share Posted November 7, 2020 Any advise on doing mold removal from wood logs placed in the backyard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 7, 2020 Report Share Posted November 7, 2020 Why? Burn them? Sorry, facetious day coming up here I guess! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cline Campbell Pottery Posted November 11, 2020 Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 I use ceramic tiles from Home Depot for ware boards. I've altered some commercial bats by super gluing sections of paint stirring sticks to make squares that that the tiles fit into so I don't have to move soft pots, just pass a wire under the pot before setting aside. Mold will grow on any pot. Just about anything you make will have some skin cells in it to feed the mold. Sometimes I wedge a little bleach into my clay. Not great for your skin and can cause holes in your apron, but prevents foul odors and mold. I also have a little fan I set in front of wood and plaster to help it dry. Cynthia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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