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Cline Campbell Pottery

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About Cline Campbell Pottery

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    New Jersey near Philadelphia

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  1. I've been told that many Mason stains don't survive cone 10 firings and burn out to black. But I've also found ^10 recipes that call for Mason stains as colorants. I guess that which colors can survive high fire varies with their chemistry, and that makes sense. Does anyone know which stains are hardy enough for cone 10 , which aren't and which vary depending on conditions? Anyone know how to find out based on other people's experience rather than doing my own tedious and expensive testing? Thanks, Cynthia
  2. Here is a recipe for a glaze with the word 'shino' in it's name. I've found it doesn't have the orange peel texture of the ^9-10 glazes or the orangey colors of reduction shinos. It could meet some of your needs. Try 100 grams and see how you like it. Cynthia Falls Creek Shino ^5-6 Gerstley Borate 18.7 Lithium Carbonate 6.5 Soda Feldspar 9.4 (Minspar 200) Alberta Slip 56.1 (Albany Slip Substitute) Silica 9.3 Superpax 9.4 (Zircopax) Tin Oxide 4.7
  3. I hope you can get Amaco products down under. Here is a chart from Amaco's website. They have several different lines of underglaze, but I like the velvets. I've had good results mixing them like watercolors and gouache, though you need three coats or they'll wash out in the glaze fire. If the picture doesn't transmit, follow the link. Cynthia https://www.amaco.com/products/chart-selector-velvet-cone-05?ref=3
  4. Thank you to all who responded. Tinbucket and Glazenerd, where can I find Additive A ? Cynthia
  5. I have a Bailey ST entry level (lowest price) wheel. I love the big splash pan, which on this wheel is removable. My Bailey doesn't make a lot of noise, even at its top speed. I got mine second hand and didn't know much about wheel brands at the time. One Bailey ad in Ceramics Monthly a few years ago bragged about how Alfred U replaced a studio's worth of wheels with top of the line Baileys. I've needed new belts and a new potentiometer over the years. These parts cost less than $20 each. I contacted Bailey and described what the wheel was doing wrong. The tech diagnosed and prescribed immediately. The new parts came within a week, complete with easy directions. I've used Shimpo Whispers in classes and like how they stop and start instantly, and they are as quiet as the name implies. But I've also heard a story about someone who had to send to Japan for a new part. Cynthia
  6. The cake will be fired. It is a lidded container, thrown in one piece. Right now I'm not planning to glaze it and I'm trying to decide between cone 10 reduction or cone 6 oxidation. I don't have my own kiln and the university where I take a class has both gas and electric. The cone 10 will fully vitrify the clay and pretty much seal the surface without making it uncharacteristically shiny. But the reduction will give the unfinished porcelain a gray cast. I'm thinking of adding a little pearl luster for accent later. The cone 6 oxidation will keep the grolleg white, but the surface will be more porous. I'm thinking about clear or white matte glaze at either temp. If you have a good cone 10 matte white or clear, or know where to find one, I'd appreciate your help. I've been using both a cake decorating bag with tips and a mini syringe type extruder. The roses are made by squeezing a ball of clay between my right thumb and the palm of my left hand, then rolling the petal. This is where the crumbling is the worst. When I tried to make them the standard icing way, the slip was either too firm to go through the bag, or too soft to maintain its shape. The leaves were easy to make with the cake tools. The strings were the hardest and I didn't make as many or as thin as I wanted. I made the strings on a flat surface, then moved them to the side of the cake. High failure rate with that. I'm planning to add a gallery of some kind to the top to hide the line of the lid. This is a time consuming winter project. After this I think I'll make a few dozen little things for the craft fair season. Cynthia
  7. I'm working on a trompe l'oeil porcelain wedding cake. The clay is Laguna cone 10 and has their added plasticizer. Porcelain doesn't behave like sugar and shortening, of course, and sometimes crumbles when I try to extrude elements. Can I add some sugar based material like corn syrup or regular sugar or maybe something like gelatin or agar agar to make the clay stick together better? The additive or any mold that grows on it will burn out, but could it cause problems with drying or pitted surfaces? I don't plan to reclaim any scraps. Cynthia
  8. When you've called Orton, Please post their answer. Now I'm curious too. Cynthia
  9. Denice, Could you please post a picture of your drying cabinet? I've been taking a class a state university that has a great dry box. I estimate its footprint is 4'x 8' , and about 5'6" high. It has no bottom, but because it sits right on the floor and the sliding doors hang from rollers like some closet doors so there's no sill, carts of shelves can be wheeled in and out directly to the kiln room. I've also hung my newly washed apron in the dry box, the prof likes towels and puts them in the box to dry. I'll have to check out where the heat comes from. Cynthia
  10. Marshall McLuhan wrote that art is what you can get away with. Picasso designed...well, just about everything. But when he designed an etching, someone else made that etching plate and printed it. That someone else was, without a doubt, practicing a craft. Same with the carvers who made marble statues from clay prototypes. No one would argue that Picasso was an artist (except those who dislike his work). I have recently made some covered urns that could be used as cookie jars, but are not intended for use at all. I am also an art college grad. So am I an artist or an artisan? I usually think of myself as a person who makes things, not an artist or a craftswoman. Cynthia
  11. I think this technique has been described in a CAD video, see if you can find it on YouTube. When you've selected your design, get a negative, and mirror, image using a computer. Print this image using a laser printer or photocopy machine; an ink jet printer doesn't use toner and won't work. When you have the printout of the negative image very gently dab underglaze onto the bare white areas (Not every brand or type of underglaze will work. I've had success with Amaco velvet). The underglaze will bead up on the areas covered by toner, dab it off with a clean brush. To transfer, place the design face down on leather hard or bisque ware. Sponge the back of the paper with water, use a squeegee like tool (I've use a red rib) to smoothe the back of the paper. Turn up a corner to see how the design is doing, and continue the wetting and squeegeeing until you're satisfied or the paper starts to fall apart. You can also use an ink jet printer an print a positive, mirror, image. Put it ink side down, wet and rub and the ink will transfer. The ink will burn off in the kiln, so go over it with underglaze or glaze. Good luck, Cynthia
  12. to JohnnyK I don't mean to be a pain, but the violinist was Joshua Bell and the city was Washington DC. You may be able to find the video on Youtube. And you're right, the experiment took place during morning rush hour and Bell had his violin case open on the floor in front of him. A few people recognized him, a few didn't but stopped to listen and put tips in the case. Context counts. Cynthia
  13. Bill van Gilder has a Youtube video where he puts clay on the wheelhead, presses it flat, then uses his finger at different distances from the center to make concentric rings. This pad is about a half inch thick. The surfaces of the raised ridges need to be scraped with a metal rib so they're not sticky. The pot to be trimmed is centered and held down with a hand on the bottom, or a poker chip or snapple cap or round piece cut from an old credit card. There are also foam bats made for trimming. Look for one on a supplier's website. Cynthia
  14. You can go to the manufacturer's websites (Amaco, Spectrum, Coyote, Mayco, etc.) and check their color charts for bright colors. I've been experimenting with Amaco's satin matte series. There are a bright red, orange and chartreuse among others. They are cone 5-6. Cynthia
  15. Courtney, Not sure any glaze is necessary. Could you post a photo of greenware or bisque? I do like the blue, though. The photos make me think of breaking waves. Cynthia
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