Jump to content

Cline Campbell Pottery

Members
  • Posts

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Jersey near Philadelphia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Cline Campbell Pottery's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)

7

Reputation

  1. Thank you for responding so helpfully. Bill, do you spray the piece as evenly as you can, or do you mask off the bare areas? Do you ever use a binder like spray starch or hairspray? Can I dry the first coat of glaze with a hair dryer? Fortunately, I have access to a spray booth at the University where I take a class. I do use thick layers of underglaze because I've experienced colors washing out at cone 5 and above. I often use porcelain and I like the vitrification of the higher temps. K, thanks. I'll try bisquing at a lower temp. thanks, Cynthia
  2. A few years ago I glazed clear over an underglaze pattern I'd painted on to a bisqued porcelain plate. The glaze was comfortably absorbed into the bare white areas, but barely coated the underglazed areas. I tried again recently and to avoid the water-repelling tendency of the gums in the commercial underglazes, I bisqued the decorated piece a second time. I am having the same problem with the glaze not sticking to the underglazed areas. The glazes were two different kinds of clear, one a studio made, the other Mayco SD-001. After the first attempt at glazing, I washed off the clear and tried spraying the piece with spray starch,letting it dry, then glazing, but it didn't help. The clay I'm using is Laguna Miller MC 550. The underglaze is usually Amaco Velvet, but some is Duncan or Speedball. Any ideas? Cynthia
  3. Try wet-dry sandpaper. Glue it to a very flat surface with waterproof glue. Hold the bowl by the sides and move it in circles on the paper. Use the paper wet to avoid dust. There is also sticky paper you can stick to your wheel. Or you could glue your paper to a bat. But you may find it hard to to hold the bowl when you use a machine. Cynthia
  4. I use ceramic tiles from Home Depot for ware boards. I've altered some commercial bats by super gluing sections of paint stirring sticks to make squares that that the tiles fit into so I don't have to move soft pots, just pass a wire under the pot before setting aside. Mold will grow on any pot. Just about anything you make will have some skin cells in it to feed the mold. Sometimes I wedge a little bleach into my clay. Not great for your skin and can cause holes in your apron, but prevents foul odors and mold. I also have a little fan I set in front of wood and plaster to help it dry. Cynthia
  5. I work in a university studio, and while I can use an electric kiln and fire to cone 5-6, I like the look of dark clays fired to cone 10 reduction in the gas kiln. Lately I've been experimenting with mishima and have had luck with red and blue stains added to white slip. I'd like to be able to add yellow to the palate. The Mason brand Canary Yellow burnt out to off white at cone 10. Is there a stain (Mason or other brand) or an oxide that is more likely to survive at that high temp? I'm using this on the outside of covered jars, so food safety is not a major issue. If uranium is the only choice, I'll learn to love off white. Cynthia
  6. Does anyone suggest using cookies or coasters under pots? I've been working on some footed pieces and firing them in a shared kiln where sand or grog could cause a problem. I don't know if this would work for something flat. A cookie is a flat piece of the same kind of clay that will shrink at the same rate as the pot and prevent drag. It is usually a waste piece, but could be a plate or trivet. Cynthia
  7. I love those pots. Could you please tell us what book you used? I've been making pots for a while but still consider myself a glaze chem beginner, but I'd like to try crystalline. I'm lucky to have access to both gas reduction and electric ox. Cynthia Also in NJ
  8. I have a Bailey ST entry level (lowest price) wheel. I love the big splash pan, which on this wheel is removable. My Bailey doesn't make a lot of noise, even at its top speed. I got mine second hand and didn't know much about wheel brands at the time. One Bailey ad in Ceramics Monthly a few years ago bragged about how Alfred U replaced a studio's worth of wheels with top of the line Baileys. I've needed new belts and a new potentiometer over the years. These parts cost less than $20 each. I contacted Bailey and described what the wheel was doing wrong. The tech diagnosed and prescribed immediately. The new parts came within a week, complete with easy directions. I've used Shimpo Whispers in classes and like how they stop and start instantly, and they are as quiet as the name implies. But I've also heard a story about someone who had to send to Japan for a new part. Cynthia
  9. When you've called Orton, Please post their answer. Now I'm curious too. Cynthia
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.