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Cline Campbell Pottery

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Everything posted by Cline Campbell Pottery

  1. I use ceramic tiles from Home Depot for ware boards. I've altered some commercial bats by super gluing sections of paint stirring sticks to make squares that that the tiles fit into so I don't have to move soft pots, just pass a wire under the pot before setting aside. Mold will grow on any pot. Just about anything you make will have some skin cells in it to feed the mold. Sometimes I wedge a little bleach into my clay. Not great for your skin and can cause holes in your apron, but prevents foul odors and mold. I also have a little fan I set in front of wood and plaster to help it d
  2. I work in a university studio, and while I can use an electric kiln and fire to cone 5-6, I like the look of dark clays fired to cone 10 reduction in the gas kiln. Lately I've been experimenting with mishima and have had luck with red and blue stains added to white slip. I'd like to be able to add yellow to the palate. The Mason brand Canary Yellow burnt out to off white at cone 10. Is there a stain (Mason or other brand) or an oxide that is more likely to survive at that high temp? I'm using this on the outside of covered jars, so food safety is not a major issue. If uranium is the o
  3. Does anyone suggest using cookies or coasters under pots? I've been working on some footed pieces and firing them in a shared kiln where sand or grog could cause a problem. I don't know if this would work for something flat. A cookie is a flat piece of the same kind of clay that will shrink at the same rate as the pot and prevent drag. It is usually a waste piece, but could be a plate or trivet. Cynthia
  4. Neil, Could you please tell us about the yellows you used on your striped mug? Cynthia
  5. I love those pots. Could you please tell us what book you used? I've been making pots for a while but still consider myself a glaze chem beginner, but I'd like to try crystalline. I'm lucky to have access to both gas reduction and electric ox. Cynthia Also in NJ
  6. I've been told that many Mason stains don't survive cone 10 firings and burn out to black. But I've also found ^10 recipes that call for Mason stains as colorants. I guess that which colors can survive high fire varies with their chemistry, and that makes sense. Does anyone know which stains are hardy enough for cone 10 , which aren't and which vary depending on conditions? Anyone know how to find out based on other people's experience rather than doing my own tedious and expensive testing? Thanks, Cynthia
  7. Here is a recipe for a glaze with the word 'shino' in it's name. I've found it doesn't have the orange peel texture of the ^9-10 glazes or the orangey colors of reduction shinos. It could meet some of your needs. Try 100 grams and see how you like it. Cynthia Falls Creek Shino ^5-6 Gerstley Borate 18.7 Lithium Carbonate 6.5 Soda Feldspar 9.4 (Minspar 200) Alberta Slip 56.1 (Albany Slip Substitute) Silica 9.3 Sup
  8. I hope you can get Amaco products down under. Here is a chart from Amaco's website. They have several different lines of underglaze, but I like the velvets. I've had good results mixing them like watercolors and gouache, though you need three coats or they'll wash out in the glaze fire. If the picture doesn't transmit, follow the link. Cynthia https://www.amaco.com/products/chart-selector-velvet-cone-05?ref=3
  9. Thank you to all who responded. Tinbucket and Glazenerd, where can I find Additive A ? Cynthia
  10. I have a Bailey ST entry level (lowest price) wheel. I love the big splash pan, which on this wheel is removable. My Bailey doesn't make a lot of noise, even at its top speed. I got mine second hand and didn't know much about wheel brands at the time. One Bailey ad in Ceramics Monthly a few years ago bragged about how Alfred U replaced a studio's worth of wheels with top of the line Baileys. I've needed new belts and a new potentiometer over the years. These parts cost less than $20 each. I contacted Bailey and described what the wheel was doing wrong. The tech diagnosed and presc
  11. The cake will be fired. It is a lidded container, thrown in one piece. Right now I'm not planning to glaze it and I'm trying to decide between cone 10 reduction or cone 6 oxidation. I don't have my own kiln and the university where I take a class has both gas and electric. The cone 10 will fully vitrify the clay and pretty much seal the surface without making it uncharacteristically shiny. But the reduction will give the unfinished porcelain a gray cast. I'm thinking of adding a little pearl luster for accent later. The cone 6 oxidation will keep the grolleg white, but the surface will
  12. I'm working on a trompe l'oeil porcelain wedding cake. The clay is Laguna cone 10 and has their added plasticizer. Porcelain doesn't behave like sugar and shortening, of course, and sometimes crumbles when I try to extrude elements. Can I add some sugar based material like corn syrup or regular sugar or maybe something like gelatin or agar agar to make the clay stick together better? The additive or any mold that grows on it will burn out, but could it cause problems with drying or pitted surfaces? I don't plan to reclaim any scraps. Cynthia
  13. When you've called Orton, Please post their answer. Now I'm curious too. Cynthia
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