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kraythe

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  1. I am just a hobbyist potter but I have been wondering lately if there was a way I could make some stuff that is impossible to be slip casted and this must be hand made. All of my mugs and bowls could have been and I am looking for some more unique ideas. Suggestions?
  2. Did you consider pouring plaster based drying boards? I did and I am happier for it. Number 1 pottery plaster is essential. Its easy to make molds for round or rectangular planks.
  3. Interesting post. Quite honestly my experience was that I needed to spend lots of time learning centering .... get REALLY good at centering or you re screwed. Then Cylinders, then bowls ... lots of cylinders and bowls. Then I could try more interesting stuff. Took a good year for me to get comfy but then I am jsut a hobbyist, not a full-timer.
  4. I was watching a video the other day where the artist had a small tabletop extruder that used a heavy screw press rather than a lever mechanism that you have to mount into bedrock. Does anyone know of any products on the market that are like that? My research has failed to turn up anything. The video showing it is here:
  5. My best kiln firing ever for this hobbyist. A couple of minor glaze flaws in some pieces but I am SOOO happy. :) Thanks for all the help The reduction came out magnificent.
  6. thanks all. We will see how the pots come out. I am just a hobbyist after all
  7. looks like backing off the gas worked, I am now over my thermocouple temp. Hit target I think, time to cool SLOWLY. *crosses fingers on this temmoku* thanks
  8. I will back off on the propane. I use tanks 4 x the size of your barbequeue tank and they dont freeze.
  9. Digital pyrometer, top draft, only very slightly covered for light reduction. Stalled or moving extremely slowly, burners all the way open. I can try backing off on the propane, its almost full bore right now. and not doing much.
  10. I am currently firing some high fire stuff and my gas kiln is seriously stalled and wont move. I have tried adjusting the propane, opening valves, adjusting airflow and it just stubbornly hangs at the same temp. Any suggestions? I need to get it to about 1290 to get just over cone 10. The kiln is a 2 burner olympic torchbearer.
  11. Yeah, the only problem is, as I said before, I cant really see the cones well through these tiny peep holes. Especially though all the glare inside the kiln.
  12. I have a pyrometer but it doesn't do as good of a job as cones because cones measure heat work and pyrometer just instant temp and I don't have them on all levels, just on the middle ring. So I can do the flames trick because I want to do some cool stuff with temoku. I have been firing cone 10 and finding out my cones are not down all the way so things are being underfired and its frustrating to not know just how much work is being done.
  13. I have an Olympic torchbearer 18" top draft gas kiln and haven't payed much attention to reduction or oxidation until now but I am interested in doing some things with reduction and I was wondering how this hobbyist can tell if I have a reduction atmosphere or not. I usually adjust it to get a clean burn below and have virtually no flames out the top. I am wondering if that means I have an oxidation atmosphere in the kiln and what I can do to make it a reduction atmosphere. I have a set of bricks I stack on top to protect my garage from the affect of the kiln and I pre-position a brick so I can seal the kiln for cooling. I notice if I push in my sealing brick to partially cover the hole, flames start shooting out of the hole of the kiln into the brick chimney. Is this causing a reduction atmosphere? I don't have money to buy an O2 sensor so hoping I can determine it without one. Thanks. P.S. I cant really see my cones through these tiny peep holes. Any advice on how to make them easier to see?
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