Hulk

For those that haven't seen it:
 

Thanks for the input ! May go for the Shimpo v lite .
 
 
 

Excited that I retired this load and we changed the breaker and it worked. I do think after the advice I received here we are going to make some changes.  Thanks again everyone 

I wouldn’t use either of those glazes if you are new to glaze chemistry as it would be necessary to remove some of the other fluxes in order to add zinc. If you just added zinc then the glaze would have more flux than needed to create a balanced glaze. Result would be an excessively fluid glaze.
Glazes high in magnesium tend to have a more muted response to colourants than those without high levels of it and blues  from cobalt lean more towards purple tones.
Yes, zircopax will give more of an opaque glaze, with or without stains. Starting at around 5% addition will show, 10% will be opaque on most bodies. 
A green stain that contains chrome when put in a glaze containing zinc will most often give an unpleasant brown.
Your second link didn’t work for me.
Welcome to the forum.

Without going into too specific details to follow the ASTM... for cups and mugs put a cup of cool water in the corner of a microwave then with the empty test sample mug run it for 2 minutes at full power.  Handle temp must not exceed 60C/140F and  any of the other surfaces 121C/250F. Before commencing test the test pieces must be submerged in room temp water for 12 hours and also pass the ASTM 325F oven to water test. (which I don't have) Slightly different times and temps for plates etc.

I just ran a 1 minute microwave test with 4 pots with the following clay bodies:
Standard 365 cone 6 English porcelain Standard 266 black clay A medium-brown cone 10 stoneware with grog A red body, fired around cone 3. After microwaving for 1 minute and measuring the temperature of the piece in the middle, using a laser pyrometer:
The porcelain and the cone 10 body both came out around 140F. Kinda hot, but I could get them out of the microwave. The 266 black hit 170F, too hot to handle. The red body was over 220F. Here's the really interesting thing, though: in all cases, the unglazed areas were a lot hotter than the glazed areas. When I measured down the side of the piece, they were all cooler at the top than they were at the bottom, presumably because they all have unglazed bottoms. The red clay pot was glazed on the inside and about 3/4 of the way down on the outside, and at the very bottom of the outside where it was unglazed, it measured over 260F. In all cases, the bottom inside was at least 30 degrees hotter than further up the walls.
So glaze on both sides seems to have a pretty big effect on how hot the pot gets. @Kelly in AK if that plate was glazed on the bottom like most commercial plates are, that may explain why it stayed cool in the microwave.
Another odd thing:  If I microwaved several at a time, they didn't get as hot- just like when you have more food in the microwave you have to run it longer. But the unglazed areas heated up almost as much as when I ran them alone. Strange stuff.
So iron in the body, glaze, vitrification? I don't know if the red body got hotter because of the iron in it or because it's not fully vitrified, or both? The Standard 266 has a lot of iron, maybe more than the red body, but it's more vitrified than the red, so is that why it didn't get as hot? Or did the red get hotter because it has more unglazed area? Lots of mysteries here.
Having something in the pot that has to get heated up definitely slows down the heating of the pot. I microwave a mug of water 3-4 times a week in my studio for tea. It's made of Standard 365 cone 6 English porcelain, and every day I pull it out of the microwave by the handle with no problem.
 

I tried an experiment. I microwaved five unglazed items made with five different clay bodies along with a beaker of water. None of these have ever been exposed to water. Humidity exposure is minimal (kept inside and in New Mexico where it is a fairly dry weather).  Readings using a laser thermometer after 1 minute in the microwave:
Cashmere and Ochre 100F Marilyn's BOD and Chocolate 120F IronStone 210F These are all cone 5/6 clay bodies by New Mexico Clay.  I am guessing, based on their appearance, that Cashmere (a white porcelain/stoneware mix like B-mix) and Ochre (a light tan)  have the lowest iron content.  Marilyn's BOD (a red-brown stoneware) and Chocolate (Dark Hershey brown smooth clay, almost black) have a bit more, again based on appearance. Ironstone is advertised as having so much iron that a magnet will stick to it which I tested and it's true! Fortunately, it wasn't so much iron as to fry my microwave!
 I did not do the presoak as prescribed by ASTM because I was more interested in the effects of the iron in the clay body. Even without the presoak, per ATSM C1607-06, the Ironstone would NOT be considered microwave safe.  Maybe someday, I'll make  mugs out of Ironstone and the others and then run the mug test complete with presoak.

I am a all porcelain  shopcone 10 firing gas.
I would make my own wash and remove with a wet sponge  before firing any commercial wash as it usually poor quality.
Speaking of quailty wash I noticed on the Advander shelves (kiln shelve.com ) site they use the same formula as I posted years ago
1/2 alumina hydrate
1/4 epk
1/4 calcined EPK or (glowmax)
I apply a VERY  thin coat with a paint roller after shelves get warm in sun and when dry scrap the edges of wash

Yep, our porcelain plucks. But kiln wash is super easy, super smooth or a little alumina works just fine for us.  Cone 10 furniture plucks as well but dipping the ends of furniture in kiln wash is super effective and lasts many, many firings. The weight of each load is 30-60 % lighter than ordinary shelves so to us they are worth it in reduced energy alone.

Good question.
ASTM article (formerly $48) https://www.astm.org/c1607-12r20.html
Mr. Hansen's article Microwave Safe (digitalfire.com)
A Forum thread on the subject: Microwave safe. - Clay and Glaze Chemistry - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
The ASTM article may include a standard/industry definition, idk.
This is where I am with it: "...not melt or otherwise lose form, not leach bad stuff, not get too hot to touch after one minute in the waver [microwave oven] ...anything that gets more than pleasantly warm (empty, clean) is not microwave safe...!"
I still have microwave test clean dry wares on my "to do" list.
I have an inexpensive infrared thermometer now...

Thanks for the info on the breaker I will check with husband make sure he knows this before I try to run kiln again.  My newer kiln has never done this (so far) 
I am so glad I found this forum. And folks are willing to share their knowledge and time to submit it

Thanks for all the comments I will refire to come 04.  We fixed the breaker which was old.  Thanks again for your help,  

Good question.
ASTM article (formerly $48) https://www.astm.org/c1607-12r20.html
Mr. Hansen's article Microwave Safe (digitalfire.com)
A Forum thread on the subject: Microwave safe. - Clay and Glaze Chemistry - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
The ASTM article may include a standard/industry definition, idk.
This is where I am with it: "...not melt or otherwise lose form, not leach bad stuff, not get too hot to touch after one minute in the waver [microwave oven] ...anything that gets more than pleasantly warm (empty, clean) is not microwave safe...!"
I still have microwave test clean dry wares on my "to do" list.
I have an inexpensive infrared thermometer now...

Good question.
ASTM article (formerly $48) https://www.astm.org/c1607-12r20.html
Mr. Hansen's article Microwave Safe (digitalfire.com)
A Forum thread on the subject: Microwave safe. - Clay and Glaze Chemistry - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
The ASTM article may include a standard/industry definition, idk.
This is where I am with it: "...not melt or otherwise lose form, not leach bad stuff, not get too hot to touch after one minute in the waver [microwave oven] ...anything that gets more than pleasantly warm (empty, clean) is not microwave safe...!"
I still have microwave test clean dry wares on my "to do" list.
I have an inexpensive infrared thermometer now...

Some ideas on the causes & avoidance of problems in:
Microwave safe
https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/forum/23-clay-and-glaze-chemistry/
PS Pedantically in the USA:
... although I expect that -- like many stress tests -- this only implies safe at the point of test rather than lifelong safety. [Unless you re-test after representative "wear and tear" such as crazing and chips.]

Microwave safe. What does that mean?
I’ve been puzzling over this a while, a few years, at least. Lately an event, which I’ll get to, pushed me into posting the question here.
My understanding was that vitrified clay wouldn’t get particularly hot in the microwave, but there was some question when it came to high iron clay bodies. Experience in my kitchen over twenty years bears this out, the semi-vitreous pots could be counted on to get hot, the really porous earthenware could get dangerously hot while the food remained cold. High iron clays don’t seem to behave differently, but I remain open to the possibility they can. The other experience I’ve noted is that any dish fresh from the dishwasher, even cooled to room temperature, will get hot in the microwave. My assumption is adsorption (water that intimately sticks to the surface), not just absorption, plays a role.
The event that gets me seriously wondering centers on a diner plate. My dad was in the catering business and when he retired I snagged a few restaurant dishes. They’ve been in service for over twenty years in my home, unbelievably perfect ceramic engineering. Plain white, no chips, cutlery marks, or cracks, despite regular use and abuse (They’re diner plates, I don’t treat them like handmade pottery!). They don’t get hot in the microwave. My son burned his finger pulling one out of the microwave the other day. That didn’t make sense. Tonight he tells me he observed the plate closely and saw a craze and discoloration, and that it looked like a glaze crack, not a clay crack. I’m proud as a dad, he nailed it, though I doubted until I saw for myself. That discoloration is at about 11:00 in the photo, poorly visible I’m afraid. There is another blotch around 2:15. 

So finally, after all these years, one failed. Time for destructive testing. I threw that plate in the microwave, one minute. At 50 seconds, I added another minute. At one minute and fifteen seconds it shattered cleanly into three pieces.
What did I learn? These plates, tough as hell, never got hot in the microwave for twenty years, never chipped, are in fact made of porous clay. I put a drop of water on the newly bared ceramic and it soaked right in. This rocks my world a bit. I honestly didn’t imagine it was possible to fit a glaze that well to non vitreous ware or that non vitrified ceramic could be so tough. 
The ASTM has a standard and a test for “microwave safe,” I’m not shelling out sixty bucks to read it. I’m not sure my pots would even pass the prerequisites to perform the test. I figured “vitrified”, as in 0.5%, was a prerequisite. 
What does microwave safe mean? 
 

Hi SacredDrop, Welcome to the Forum!
The motor might need a clean up, and/or new brushes? ...could have a bad switch, faulty winding (particularly if the two speeds are achieved via two separate windings)?
Identifying and correcting the problem(s) might extend the life of the motor*.
Finding an electric motor shop that can help - I see there are several in the Boise area - might take some looking and luck.
Can the motor be repaired? Is it worthwhile?
From Boise Electric Motor Repair webpage: "We repair pumps and motors of any kind."
 
*the sparking and heat (and hence, smells) may reduce the life of the motor...

Something a little different just finished up in my studio this week!  'Smitten' medallion (small plaque) , sculpted by Rebecca Turner, produced in earthenware ceramic by Marge Para, and custom glazed by myself as a show donation for Clinky Mania Live 2024 in Titusville, FL this May.  All work done in the kiln using underglazes, then satin clear, followed by some overglazes to punch up the colors in the cat.  This ceramic medallion measures 3.5 by 5 inches and is going to public auction to benefit the show.    Photo displayed is MUCH larger than the actual piece!
I don't do many donation pieces anymore as I am just too busy but this is to help support a good friend's last year of hosting this show series for equine ceramics.  With all the heavy storms up here we've had in these mountains the past week it's been hard to fire either of my kilns with so many power outages and all the lightning.   But I finally got it done!  

Thank you both, Min and Pres. That is a brilliant suggestion and answer.

Laguna has a chart showing all their claybodies and what they are recommended for, including throwing and handbuilding large.
https://www.lagunaclay.com/_files/ugd/e5330f_25040094ad64486892fa46e3a38e608f.pdf

Thinking along Rae's line, a setup where you have a motor like that from a microwave turntable, and some jury-rigged pulleys and a belt, may work just fine, and could be done on the cheap. It's something I've thought about in the past and this thread has gotten me to thinking again. I've made banding wheels from thrift store ceiling fans and the motor can be got from a discarded microwave oven. It's something to consider if you are mechanically inclined.

Please do post an update on the re-fire...

They are still in business so a call to Amaco might be revealing. They also seem to sell Amaco motors as well as brushes on their site. Maybe matchup to what you have. Your motor hopefully has a nameplate. Amaco website https://shop.amaco.com/equipment/parts/brent/wheel-motors/

Hi SacredDrop, Welcome to the Forum!
The motor might need a clean up, and/or new brushes? ...could have a bad switch, faulty winding (particularly if the two speeds are achieved via two separate windings)?
Identifying and correcting the problem(s) might extend the life of the motor*.
Finding an electric motor shop that can help - I see there are several in the Boise area - might take some looking and luck.
Can the motor be repaired? Is it worthwhile?
From Boise Electric Motor Repair webpage: "We repair pumps and motors of any kind."
 
*the sparking and heat (and hence, smells) may reduce the life of the motor...

Please do post an update on the re-fire...