Hulk
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Posts posted by Hulk
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The lower level, that would seem to go well with casters, for it should stiffen the stance considerably. Watch the shin clearance... 🤔
My repurposed worktable wouldn't be a good rollabout option, I wouldn't think - it stands free just fine, shines against the wall. It cost time and screws.
Spec the wheels with care - this is where I am with a rolling cart, for I want to roll it over two door thresholds, not track dirt, soft on the floor, two steerers, two fixed, good locking, ball bearing axles...
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The plywood top and heavy cross pieces were part of the shipping crate.
The table saw clears the diagonal cross pieces - that's where it went, years ago...
Note the back plate sits up from the edge an inch an' a half or so, for "oh no you don't things" that run for the back edge ...
In its current position/role, needs the top sanded off and a coat of tough finish applied, else a flat smooth something overlayed.
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The Nomad 3 is desktop vertical milling machine?
Nomad Desktop CNC (carbide3d.com)
I'm curious what the shape is for.As for machining the material (aka "Macor"), likely you've already seen these:
Macor Machining Guide (precision-ceramics.com)
Machining-MACOR.pdf (corning.com)Can the Nomad 3 accommodate a spray mist coolant setup?
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Previous studio (a one bay garage) had built in work surfaces over cabinets - enough space for a full kiln load plus a space to glaze - a previous owner had repurposed some old cabinetry and used solid core doors for the countertops. The surfaces were smooth and well sealed - easy to clean up.
The height was ok, not ideal, being just a bit low for working while standing, thus a bit high for working from my roll around chair.
We added a raised platform for two book (pottery) shelves, with space underneath for five gallon buckets, repurposing solid core doors we picked up from a construction site (cut in thirds), and several rows of track shelving on the walls as well.The new studio (also a one bay garage) is a rectangular space with a window and rollup door.
I'm using the workbench we made for a flooring project* and a folding table (Lifetime rectangle). I'm surprised how much I like the folding table! It's smooth, cleans up easy, and can be moved or put away. I plan to add a roll around cart; not sure if I'll do a permanent/fixed countertop this time... ...I did really like the raised shelves with five gallon storage underneath, will very likely do that again.So, ideal heights/levels, easy to clean, cheap (or already in possession), and modular are factors for me.
Repurposing solid core doors and heavy packing crates has worked well...
*It's an ideal height for operating a chop saw. The table top is from a packing crate.
I'll circle back with a picture.- Rae Reich, HenryBurlingame and Russ
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There are kilns, wheels and other stuff listed on GovDeals.com ...sometimes.
For example, there are Bailey kilns in Pennsylvania today.
There may be listings at pottery supply/vendors in your area (if any) as well, where an inquiry may lead to something... -
Aye, my image search indicated Cress was at same El Monte, CA street address as J.J. Cress, per CorporationWiki...
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Cress may have moved and/or had several sites that have been moved/consolidated/closed/?? - there may still be more than one location.
I'm seeing Hopkinsville, Kentucky; Monrovia, California; El Monte, California; Carson City, Nevada.
The kiln info plates with street addresses also have a zip code; where there is no street address, no zip code - this is my observation.The Cress website "About Us" article indicates "Cress was founded in 1973..."
The units that look like the OPs that I'm seeing/finding are model C-14 Heat Treatment furnaces.
Added: on t'other hand, J.J. Cress and Cress may be separate and unrelated (excepting the name) companies, per archived (this) Forum threads
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The proposed glaze (slide 15, Finkelnburg's NCECA presentation):
0.3 R2O+0.7 RO : 0.35 Al2O3 : 3.5 SiO2
One mole of flux (combined):
0.3 alkali oxides (R2O)
0.7 alkaline earth oxides (RO)
0.35 moles of alumina (Al2O3)
3.5 moles of silica (SiO2)As for the wide range, if the glaze is stiff enough at the higher cones (doesn't run off the ware) and doesn't exhibit other over fired problems, it's a go?
The durability, my understanding is that durability is largely a function of the silica and alumina amounts and ratio when fully melted.The proposed glaze doesn't specify any oxides other than alumina and silica.
My guess would be that its behaviour would vary significantly depending on the RO and R2O selections and ratios.Edit: The numbers across the top of the Stull graph are "ordinals" - not cones.
The graph is generated at a specified cone...
Each spot on the graph can be located by its letter(vertical) and number (horizontal), per the transcript of Stull's original presentation. -
Hi William,
Welcome to the Forum!
I was in the market for a brand-new kiln last year.
The Bailey was firmly on my final list - it is made by Tucker's (Cone Art) for Bailey.Here's an archived* thread: Thoughts On Bailey's Kilns - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
I went with L&L; it was close though!
I'm not recalling ever seeing a gas/electric kiln.
There was an electric kiln that was set up to do reduction, however, I don't believe they are made any longer.
The fuel's purpose was to provide CO for reduction, not heat - it was a small flame.
*the internal search doesn't return archived (closed) threads.
To return closed threads, try searching from your browser, e.g.
Bailey and kiln and ceramicartsdaily.org -
Hi AndrewB, Welcome to the Forum!
Is that a "flange mount" bearing assembly?
If so, is there a cartridge bearing that is replaceable, or must the entire assembly be replaced?Bearing 6204 is familiar to me; it's common for bicycle hubs. I've used the double seal (designated by "2RS") type.
ABEC 5 seems a reasonable tradeoff between cost and durability, a worthwhile step up from ABEC 3, imo; I'd stay away from the "ceramic" type - high cost for a bit less friction and not necessarily more durable...
The Enduro brand is widely available and lasts better than other brands I've tried. Vendor WheelsMfg.com has been great ...they used to offer cartridge bearings via https://bicyclepartsdirect.com/ - however, I'm not seeing 6204 (or any other wheel/hub) bearings there now...
The 6204, however, is 20mm ID x 47mm OD x 14mm wide.
I'm not finding a spec of BPF6X30MMAdded: if there is a cartridge bearing to press in/out, a bearing press can be very handy, for
a) it is important to apply force only to the outer bearing race edge (of the new bearing)
b) it is important to maintain alignment throughout the pressing (in and out)Once the bearing gets a bit tilted, it can be difficult to straighten out without damaging the bearing and/or the hub.
Added II: does it look somewhat like this?
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I'm not finding much on how that kiln is set up...
Olympic's Electric Kilns manual includes a blurb on large kiln infinite switches:"Infinite Switches – TURN ON WHEN FIRING Large capacity electric kilns which are equipped with floor and door elements have infinite switches which control the heat intensity of the elements in the floor; and the left and right side of the door."
You might give Olympic a call?
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Not seeing any kilns on GovDeals this morning, however, check later, for it is the time of year for clear outs...
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The diagram relates o'clock to degree angle - the units depicted are not temperature degrees.
O'clock to temperature would "have to" include rate, hence, o'clock (or degree angle) to temperature degree at a specified rate (temperature degrees per hour).
This is the only reference I've seen (err, remember seeing) that relates temperature rate to o'clock position.
units depicted: o'clock, angle degree, °C degreeCone ten cone, at the specified rate (60°C/Hour), the temperature difference ~27°C (~50°F) at forty degree bend, is, err, appears to be significant.
By which, I'm suggesting the forty degree bend in the OP's seven cone may be significant.
Falling the rest of the way, as Bill points out, happens quickly.
How much more heat work is required to slump/deform the cone once the tip is supported by the shelf? -
Skutt Stephen Hill model (circa 2016) on base legs.
This wheel has a heavy cast built-in splash pan. The wheel head is easily removable (never got in the habit of pulling the wheel head to clean...).
I sit on a low-slung wooden chair (with a plastic covered seat pad) pulled up tight against the wheel's front leg.Within the pan:
on the left, a one-gallon plastic bucket, a half grout sponge tucked between the bucket and the pan, and a piece of chamois clothespinned to the bucket
on the right, two half grout sponges stacked in the corner, where I set the pointer tool and metal kidney; next to it, a glazed cylinder with throwing or trimming tools;nearby, two small sponge piecesOutside the pan:
on the right, the gas pedal is on the floor; next to it, a plastic pan I toss clay bits into; just behind and to the right of the gas pedal, a plastic crate, on which rests a piece of paper, a ballpoint pen, a glazed bowl for slip collection*, a razor blade, a backup pen, the sound system remote; hanging from the chair's arm rest, a rag towel or two**
on the left, a small three level shelf thing, where rests the other tool cylinder, an array of occasional use tools (ribs, drill bits, rounding bowl, rounding tumblers, and other stuff); an old adjustable office/desk lamp mounted on a roll around - so handy! !!Behind the wheel, a window with an adjustable shade. The light is nice! In Summer, the afternoon light and heat is too much...
Overhead, two four foot led fixtures. On the far right, two trouble lights.
I sometimes keep a second water bucket nearby for rinsing hands before toweling them off - then the rag/towel doesn't get filled with dust, and the hands are "clean"er.
*Handy for fixes, handles, knobs, etc. the next day. I scrape some off my hands and plop it in the bowl, then add some water before stepping away...
**There are times when damp/wet hands won't do. These get rotated frequently, for clay dust is baaad! -
"Would you mind sharing your bisque firing schedule? "
I'd programmed a bisque schedule to match up with my notes from fully manual kiln.
The main thing being long hold at 1500°F ...if you're using the same clay (same batch), and firing rate (new kiln) is the only change...# rate target hold
1 100 200 :15
2 300 1500 :60
3 160 1945 :00
in °F
Where I'll skip the first segment when the kiln was ran up to 200°F the night before.
I'd forgotten that I'd combined the two half hour holds to one longer hold...When I've had bloating (dark red clay, black clay), they appeared where the wares were a smidge thicker.
Your blemishes, looks like they are in the thinner/thinnest part.
The "adequate oxygen" would be (could be) an important part of "burning out impurities" idea.Particles of other clay and/or tiny air pockets, both seem reasonable theories, particularly as you are firing well below the clay vendor's published limit.
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We had soft water at the last house.
Some clays settle faster than others has been my observation, but every clay I've tried will show some clear at the top within a reasonable time.
How much clear, that's variable; the ones that have just a few inches of clear at the top take much much longer to separate any further. -
Cone packs on all levels complete the picture?
...where some variation between levels is typical, in my (limited) experience.Where the cone has bent to the point where the tip rests on the shelf, hard to say how much heat work there without a guard cone.
I'm not finding a resource indicating what a forty-degree bend in large cone seven means; this article has a cone ten depicted with o'clock positions and temperatures when rate is 60°C/Hour: Pyrometric Cone (digitalfire.com) ...forty degrees ~= 28°CWhere the target is cone five to "five and a half," bending the seven is too much for the buff and red clays I was using a while back.
No problem for the red clay I'm using now, and the white and light buff clays are ok too... -
Hi Lindsay, welcome to the Forum!
Slowing your bisque - allowing more time to burn out impurities may help.
Choosing clay(s) that mature at your target temperature, I'll recommend that!Are you firing your wares twice - bisque fire, then hotter glaze fire?
...or are you single firing?Either way, faster ramp up to target temp means less time to burn out impurities; your prior kiln allowed much more time.
Slowing your bisque fire, particularly around 1500-1800°F might help.
Adequate oxygen may also be important*.
If the clay hasn't changed, and you're firing to the same target temperature (verified by cones), the firing schedule is a likely culprit.
I'm seeing much less defects** since adding significant delays (on the ramp up and the ramp down) to my bisque schedule.Bloating (digitalfire.com)
* Note the last sentence here: Kiln venting system (digitalfire.com)**bloating in dark clays, particularly where the walls are smidge thicker;
"large particle defect" - random craters;
pinholes
- Rae Reich, Bill Kielb and LindsayM
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Good question!
Brushing/brushable glaze might spray ok.
Sprayed coating, we want the material to "wet" the surface, lay down flat, stay put (not run/drip) ...and somewhat else I'm not remembering just now.
If you give it a try, let us know how it goes? -
Good question!
If temporary, a large vinyl flooring remnant could be an option?
Where the edges are well away from the activity, a damp mop makes cleaning up easy.
If the edges turn up at the wall/baseboard (wall to wall!), then doing something at the door(s) to mitigate the tripping hazard remains.If permanent, vinyl might still be an option, but putting something flat, dense, and smooth under is likely required.
- Rae Reich, Roberta12 and Bill Kielb
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Cowley Double Drive, hmm, made in New Zealand?
"Double" - perhaps on account of familiar cone and drive ring speed is reduced by pulleys and belt to the wheel head shaft...
Which model? ...there may be a model and serial number somewhere.Here's an "Operating Manual" dated 2018 cowley_wheel_manual.pdf (bathpotters.co.uk)
Newer manual includes parts diagram and list, alas, no wiring diagram MASTER Pottery Wheels Owners Manual Jan 2024.pdf (wsimg.com)
The vendor (firedupkilns) may be able to help, however.
- Bill Kielb and Mike-H
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A few Artista threads; there are at least three long time Forum regulars who own(ed) and use(d) an Artista:
Artista Potter's Wheel Question - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
Speedball Artista Potters Wheel - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
A99 timer switch for Paragon kiln 220
in Equipment Use and Repair
Posted
Hi Cindi, Welcome to the Forum!
Paragon Industries has a wiring diagram and parts identification .pdf for models A-99, A99B, A100B on their website; pick it from here:
Kiln Wiring Diagrams | Paragon Industries LP (paragonweb.com)
I'm not seeing a timer there, however, see "...kiln sitter (not shown)" under item 22.
Is the timer motor part of the kiln sitter? If so, please ID the sitter make and model, and, if possible, supply an image?
Robertshaw and Paragon...
Paragon defrost timers, yep.
Looks like Paragon kilns are made by Paragon Industries, L.P. in Mesquite, Texas ...if they are associated with Robertshaw, I'm not finding it.
...didn't know that Frederick W. Robertshaw invented the thermostat.
They make a broad array of control equipment - there was a lot of Robertshaw stuff in the steel mill where I worked - I wouldn't be surprised (maybe a little bit) if a Paragon kiln has a Robertshaw control.
Robertshaw headquarters is in Itasca, Illinois.