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karenkstudio

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Posts posted by karenkstudio


  1. Is anyone with a robust on-line presence experiencing; increased sales, the same as past years, or a drop off in orders for this time of the year?

    I was at the mail box earlier this week when my mail carrier arrived.  She mentioned (we were appropriately distanced) that package delivery lately has been like Christmas.  

     


  2. I bought a 25 lb. block of paper clay for experimentation.  After using half of the block, I would like to save what is left for additional experiments based on the results of firing and glazing. Of course mold is a problem.    

    Has anyone who has worked with paper clay allowed it dry, break the up, add water and work it into a ball ready for a few more projects?  I was thinking of rolling the remaining clay into slabs, let them dry and later when I'm ready reconstitute the clay.

    I will be doing reduction raku, horse hair, single fire with clear over under glazes, and some small sculpture with fine thin detail.

     


  3. I'm a retired art teacher.  There were times when I brought students in on problem solving process and this may be the time since the clay will be in their home.   If you gave them just one pound of clay, what would they create using hand building techniques?   Where and how would they set up for easy clean up.  What items do they have at home that could be used as basic tools?  How will they keep the clay moist when not working with it?   How will they set up a drying space,and at some point, how will this be transported to school for firing.      Make sure parents sign off on this plan.

    Schools are sending meals home. Why not a pound of clay?

    Just a thought

     

     


  4. To make the "bead popper",  

    1.   screw the "plunger" completely out of the chap stick cylinder  

    2.   Turn the plunger over and force it back into the tube while turning the knob at the bottom. If you line it up with the screw at the center, this  will allow you to draw the "plunger" back down into the tube.

    3.   Screw the little plunger back far enough so you see the top of that center screw.   Then  take a sharp xacto knife and cut off the extra part of the tube so the plunger is even with the top part of the screw and the tube.

    4.   When using, start by spraying  a little Pam inside the tube with the plunger retracted in the tube, cut the small  beads  from a slab of clay and push the bead out by screwing the plunger to the top of the tube.   

    Note:  I smooth the top edge of the bead when it's pushed just beyond the top edge of the tube. The bottom edge is finished when on the straw  (pictured in my original post.)   

    When making the larger beads, retract the plunger and stuff clay in the tube making sure you keep the screw centered as you fill the tub with clay.  

     Hope this helps.


  5. I built a portable wood fired Raku kiln using a trash can, and also experimented with a bisque firing using the same kiln.

    It was successful only because I slowly brought the kiln up to an appropriate temperature for clay formulated to be used for raku.

    A picture of the kiln with the bisque pieces is attached.

    To bisque fire in this type of kiln would take some experimentation.   

     

    IMG_0635.JPG


  6. About a year ago I attended a workshop with an artists that used air dry clay.  The product she used was Polyform Clay.  It did not shrink and it can be applied over in thin sheets over a well formed armature.    I used aluminum foil over wire as my armture to make a couple of birds.  Other artists at the workshop used small bottles and cups for their armatures.   I finished mine with acrylic paint.

    Some day I may try this again however for now I'll stick with Raku.

     

     


  7. I posted the picture of the NOVA kiln.  There is no way to gradually turn up the temperature.   It's the type of kiln that is plugged into a regular outlet, and was probably intended for glass fusing and china painting.  I only use it reheat pieces for horsehair raku and like the fact that the elements are covered. I use a sight cone system to determine temp.

     I don't think it would be practical for bisque.   I've never glazed anything in this kiln.

    Mine only cost $25 so I thought it would worth having for some of my experiments.  

    The picture of the kiln is in my gallery. 


  8. Johnny, My system for raku firing is the same each time.   Can and materials are the same each time for reduction.  I've used this system 50+ times, of course with varying results when using the copper glaze,  and plan to check humidity % during summer months when firing.

    I enjoy Raku because  of the   many surprises the process creates.  

    If I don't  like the results I just reglaze.


  9. The results for raku firing always very,  and I've heard that humidity effects results.  During my last 2 firings I noted the humidity % and noticed a difference with the copper  glaze results.

    At 80% humidity my pieces were an  iridescent  green with a little copper color.  At 50% humidity  they were copper with a few other iridescent colors.

    Has anyone else noticed this specific anomaly?

     

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