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Rae Reich

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Posts posted by Rae Reich

  1. 1 hour ago, liambesaw said:

    I was thinking maybe something a little more saturated like palm, coconut, even soy wax or something.  Heating lamp oil would be really dangerous.  Something that might swell in the presence of oil like bentonite mixed with a thinner oil like grapeseed might work too, would require testing on some little tester bowls.

    Sorry, should have said my hypothetical bottles were for food oil. Your ideas are intriguing. Agree that that process would not be recommended for lamp oil. :) 

  2. 1 hour ago, liambesaw said:

    Usually it just takes "seasoning" to stop that kind of stuff.  Lots of seasonings would probably work, including lamp oil itself, but who wants to sit around seasoning a bunch of lamps for who knows how long.

    So you think if I heated my hypothetical oil bottles filled with oil to whatever temperature cast iron skillets are seasoned, let them cool slowly, and drained them (recycle the oil), they might be seasoned?

  3. 16 minutes ago, Min said:

    I think it's important to do the absorption test with water not to rule the pot as tight for oil but to rule out pots that will probably leak. It isn't possible to do a boil and soak test with lamp oil for example but if you know the absorption is much more than zero with water it will probably leak. I don't have issues with my veg/olive oil bottles weeping and the porosity/absorption of my clay is around 1%, it isn't tight enough for lamp oil.

    @Min    Agreed that is a good reason to test with water, too. Not sure I'd want to boil lamp oil, but that should work for food oils. 

    Maybe the volatiles in lamp oil make it more prone to seepage.

    What do you use for a liner glaze? Cone 10?

  4. 5 hours ago, Melissa F. said:

    I just didn’t have enough glaze to do the interior. I might re-fire now with clear on the inside if I can get my hands on some! 

    If the bottle is used to contain oil, I don't think a refire with glaze would work, the glaze can't penetrate the clay enough to be a good coating.

    What's the point of testing for absorption with water when you intend to use oil?

    I learned from my mentor that oil lamps, even when glazed with a reliable liner glaze inside, will seep oil through the unglazed base. We brushed two coats of slightly thinned white glue on the bottoms and that sealed against the oil seepage. It dries waterproof, if it isn't soaked in water for extended periods. However, we can assume that the lamp oil still penetrated the liner glaze and remained harmlessly in the body of the piece.

    For food grade oil, I would not store it, even in any fully glazed ceramic piece, because of the likelihood of oils remaining in the body of the piece and becoming rancid. Possibly for short-term usage, like serving. .

    Put a flower in that bottle, it's a vase! 

  5. I bought a porcelain mug with a lovely frosty blue glaze and an exposed 1 1/2" bottom area. First use with Lemon Zinger tea revealed a hairline crack going up the exposed area. I suspect that the thickness of the wall as well as the tension between glazed and unglazed both contributed to the fail, but also  the relative density of porcelain  

    Exposed porcelain will never really look pristine again after it leaves the kiln. Granite stoneware still looks fine after 20+ years. Most red stone wares also still look good with no staining. 

  6. On 10/19/2019 at 10:02 AM, Callie Beller Diesel said:

    @liambesaw @Benzine I've found that if you apply Sherril's Scarlet Kidney of Shining to the projected exposed parts at leather hard, sponges gain a +5 resistance to shredding damage. Your gaming table still will still likely appreciate a coaster.

    For those non-Dungeons and Dragons players, burnish the exposed part with a little red rib to smooth it out if you're worried about causing damage to sponges or tabletops. Work clean to keep the feet clear of burrs and crumbs, and give your pots a quick pass with some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper, used wet, after the glaze firing.

    My clay is fired to around 1% porosity or less, so I have no trouble leaving exposed clay on the bottom 1/4 to 1/3 of the pot. I haven't tried to test where the line is when a mug will break more readily if too much is left unglazed. I know if it's only lined, it's a lot more fragile.



  7. On 10/18/2019 at 3:05 PM, liambesaw said:

    I was just going through this question a while ago and decided I'd start throwing away scraps.  Then I noticed on my yard waste bin it says no dirt allowed, so I decided to call up my waste collection company and they said I cannot put clay inside the yard waste.  So I will just be collecting my scraps until I can afford a pug mill.

    Since you're not going to be recycling anymore, can I have your pug mill?

    You can't put it in your Green Waste barrel, but you might be able to put in in the Trash barrel (as long as it doesn't make the barrel too heavy). Call your waste collection company and see.

  8. On 10/17/2019 at 5:02 PM, Min said:

     the gallery prints them off for vendors who can't do it themselves, which should be doable. 

    This is what the Art A Fair in Laguna did with everyone the year I was there. You told them how many you needed at which prices, then they  printed them for you. With a large number of participants, this would assure consistency of printing. 

  9. Ceramic pencils are made of glaze and are meant to be used directly on bisque with a transparent clear or colored glaze over the drawing. They can be fired at low and high temperatures. 

    For "drawing" on unfired glaze, there are "scratch-through" techniques and drawing with a brush using oxides or colorants. 

    The interesting thing about drawing on pots is learning to draw on a surface that is curved, sometimes in complex ways.

  10. If your throwing style involves creating large amounts of slip, you can add that back into clay that is a bit dry or if re-wedging wetter scrap you can add a handful of ball clay. The object is to put back into the clay all the fine particles you removed in throwing. You'll know it needs fines when it seems excessively groggy.

  11. 15 hours ago, Sirdripsalot said:

    Thank you all for your insight, it really means a lot. I plan to do a series of test tiles and experiments with glaze thickness varying on both the inside and outside of thin ware. I'll write a note here with my findings when done! ☺️

    I think you'll need to do tests on your mug shapes, rather than tiles, because your cracks run horizontally on those thrown shapes. Flat tiles won't behave the same way under stress.

    Guessing you don't want to modify your exterior glaze technique, so I'd recommend that you throw the forms a little thicker, to stand up to the stress put on them from unequal glaze thickness between inside and out.

  12. If your porcelain has dried a little unevenly, the difference in 'drag' on your tool can get a 'wave' started that is hard to repair. Stop the wheel immediately and determine where your high/low spot is. You may be able to correct the area by hand scraping before (carefully) completing your wheel trimming. Re-moisten the rest of the untrimmed bases that remain on your board, cover lightly with plastic until moisture is distributed evenly. 

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