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High Bridge Pottery

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Everything posted by High Bridge Pottery

  1. I too have pondered the idea of 'plonking a test tile' or similar in every tile, it wasn't so much a flat top mountain but a steep volcano with flat edges. The logistics of making a 35 grid mould sounds like too much work to me. I would consider doing the same flat top shape but casting each one individually and just arranging into a grid after the fact. Now they sound like upside down pots. Maybe that is not a bad thing. Still too much work. I am lazy and like things to be simple stupid. Having to make complicated moulds or needing to make slabs and waiting to join with slip is not for me
  2. Only just made the connection between you and the chap on ceramic recipes
  3. If you can get them square enough you could probably stack a couple of layers alternating direction. I don't think overflow would be too much of an issue but you could add a little extra space either end or have them sat on little tiles catching anything off the ends.
  4. I would just do the grid on the tiles, no point in duplicating it. Make 7 big L's instead of 35 small. Hit with something round to make a dint and glaze+tip sounds good.
  5. Can you share the base? Is the green colour from the dark clay body? Tile 9 across the board looks beautiful, by 2% do you mean 2ml? They do look a little thick, this is a problem with the tile method. The more I look at them the more I want to sell glaze tiles and forget selling pots. I really like tile 31 with no colourant. Thank you for sharing. I think, if you have an extruder/get one you should make L shape tiles. That is the way I am going to try when I can. They would be something like this but with multiple rows making up the grid and a lot smaller. Maybe 1-2" walls. Stack the
  6. The other thing to do is just accept the problem, even if by 10% addition you are out by 10% what's the difference between 10 and 11. Close enough to go I like between 4 and 6%
  7. The way my equation should work is: You take out the first 4ml (could be any known amount) out each cup for two tiles and weigh the liquid glaze left in a cup. Put that through the equation and get total dry glaze in the cup. Mix up the 80ml of 40 x 1% oxide and add 2ml to each cup. Run another grid, put the new weight of liquid glaze and ml through and mix up a new solution of 80ml to add into cups. I think you should take off any extra oxide you have already added to give a better estimate of total dry base glaze. This way I think as long as you take out measured amounts each tim
  8. Is he talking about in the book mixing up an 80ml solution that contains 40 1% additions? Then 2ml = 1% oxide with a little to spare. That seems to be the idea you are going for anyway. It is a tough one as you are taking out 2ml of glaze then adding back in 2ml with less material in so slowly the total dry glaze is going down. I worked it out to about 1gram every 2ml test taken with adding 1% oxide in but then I get really lost in too much maths trying to come up with a simple solution. I remembered an equation that if you know the ml and the weight of glaze you can work out grams dry gl
  9. I do like it, taken on iphone so not sure about the quality printed big. I am not a photographer just a happy snapper.
  10. Decided to fore the gas kiln today. I hope there's enough gas in my 3 mostly empty tanks...

    1. High Bridge Pottery

      High Bridge Pottery

      Not had any time to run any new tests. Just old bisque pots from my studio and same with the glaze. My matte white came out pretty clear which was interesting.

    2. High Bridge Pottery

      High Bridge Pottery

      Going to have a ponder over your post but I will get back to you. Needs some thinking time, also food is ready xD


    3. glazenerd


      Back in the pottery biz once more? Glad to see you back to firing.

    4. Show next comments  9 more
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