Babs

Wha is the number or name on Glazy, perhaps you adean error copying that. If bentonite aded in any large quantity, i would be so lumpy in the buckrt and hard to sieve

Top one, one you like? Left out the cobalt, ? Prob not as sipmple as that because bottom image is a runnier glaze . Second batch same firing schedule, same Specific Gravity?

Yes, wrong word, may need to slide brick over part of top hole to reduce the suck out of hole, alonG with playing down the gas

Are you overdoing it re trying to get zero reduction? All the heat at the business end of firing going up the chimney? May be need to do a bit of playing with the damper to stop heat loss

Ah our haptic seses are fully developed! Keep in touch, be in the moment etc etc. Good at shutting out the irrelevant when immmersed, apologies for cross references!

Monkey brains, you guys, no AI would calculate whete you are going @Hulk and @Dick White Straight from glaze formulation to turbulent waters:-)))

Apply liberal amounts of super glue to fingers when handling pots :-)

Good point . I got my kiln hard wired and wiring and fuse box changed to avoid what you write about @Kelly in AK when noticing heating at power point. And so in wall and roof! What was happening in the neighbourhood? In your roof? The pots may be just raw like @neilestrick suggests.

Also there is a difference between glaze stains and body stains.

Does your kiln glow red in all elements if you were to start it up on high for 15mins? Doez the smell/ smoke perist?

Also , you dont have to invent the wheel. Folk ha1ve been using coloured slip fir a long tIme. I suggest you tap in to other folks testings , select a range you like , remembering the colour of your clay body may have an effect and also your top temperature. Get a palette established for your pottery and then you may have to purchase just a few...to begin with. All the best

Air sucking back into kiln from leaky damper?

That is what brought me to broad brushstrokes.

Were they subject to a 'draft', unsealed top vent? Oxidising the top shelf, wierd, would you take an order? :-)))))

So you brushed a second layer on inside of bowls? Possible you used another glaze there? Quite crazy, eh? Or a slip over the glaze?

Yes the pot % got me too, I thought % poWer on for F1 so I suggested set it at 25% so not to blow pots up.... If @LugaGreen takes good notes of what was set and temp rises/ hr if that becomes available, get a better estimation of what that controls

OR you set temp for ramp 1 tF1 initially, 600°c and then down to the time, set 6hrs, doesn't seem to be a button for F2, But, set final temp wanted and time of full firing 9hrs 10 mins, and tF3 as 5 mins. Percentage F1 sat 25%

No replies. So I would. Set the temp you want in top dial, I would put in, bisque temp first, say , 1000 degrees Celcius, cone 06, or higher, 1040°C, cone 04. Put a few cone sets throughout tge kiln 07, 06, 05 if going for C06,1000°C TF3 WOULD BE A SOAK AFTER TEMP REACHED SO DEPENDS ON YOUR GLAZE, PACKING OF KILN AS THIS EVENS OUT TEMP THROUGHOUT YOUR KILN, IT INCREASES HEATWORK. So 5mins to 10 mins As the first ramp tF1, is most risky for pots, I would schedule that for 6 hrs for a bisque firing, and set time for whole firing for 9hrs, 10 mins., Have a go, can't lose, take notes . Temp reached each hour, check peep hole for colour inside your kiln. And state of cone packs when kiln opened.

Is the cone in the sitter bent at 90deg?

A photo of usual and new would give an idea as to what's hapening. Double batch and no increase to iron content?

I too have used shelf props but topped them with bits of broken shelf size of base of pot

My thoughts after reading that you can get the product on the Big river website. Great to read that there is so much love and caring in our Community.

I can hardly believe the bisque temp. 1120°C that's what? Cone 01ish, did you mean 1020? NIthing to do with your query but seems very high.

CMC GUM do the same?

Friend used to use inner tubes from various tyres, cut knotted , tied and so firth! Free