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Babs

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Everything posted by Babs

  1. Ok makes it less flexible for sure! Bisque 100C/hr to 600C 150/hr to end temp Hold 10mins. (1063C is pretty high, what coneis that?)
  2. Not techical, but your 2 increases then soak can simply be... Say 100C /hr to 200C 100C/hr to 600C Soak 00.00 i .e. none Then 150C/hr to 700C 150C/hr to 750C Soak 00.15 (15mins) Basically dividing your schedule into more sections of ramp than "needed" but fits the program. And so on. How many ramps available?
  3. When you say they don't leak.place a mug filled with hot water on a newspaper, kitchen towel. Leave for 24hrs. Then check for dampness , old friend amazed when she did that...
  4. Why are you propping? Leave the vent holes open then replae all but top 1 at your temperasture chose. Proppig lets all the mosture and naadddties hit the gandle and erode ut And puts pressure on lid structure
  5. Miggt be less exp. to create a pink slip and apply to yoour pots . @Callie Beller Diesel does this beautifully.
  6. When I trim, after centering, I lock in my elbows etc and use a broad, long chef knife to level the base, holding it at right angle to the pot base. The knife length covers the entire base After that I define my outside of foot. Maybe your pot is not of uniform dryness and so the tool pressure does not have same effect all the way around your pot. Maybe?? Be firm!!!! Can you stabilise your tool so it is only trimming the hump? Or recentre pot to see if makes a difference? Which part of the pot are you centering from initialky? Are you just using the rings on your foam?
  7. If you were to put a curve in your handle and a "bowled" container end for your spoons then as a few had said, there will be 2 pointd of contaact with bench so a seashell, soft brick, etc may be all you need. First as folk say, check actual cone your kiln is firing to. It may be you need/can fire to a lower cone and be more succesdsful. A lot of work going into your work, just a bit more.... From experience. Keep your different clay bodies and bisque ware well separated if same unfired colour..
  8. Depends on the metal, but that is not your main problem I fear. Design is amost everything. Try quickly picking one ofyour spoons up and then a serving spoon , any spoon with a slight curve to the handle. Which is easier? Spoons for babies have an exaggerated curve for even more ease. Yous are beautiful, not trying to discourage you. Might be easier kiln packing just placing on two wads, quick polish.Make a couple with a curve and try on a couple of friends.
  9. Well as others have said, the resting small points of ware can be polished quite successfully. After all they are not going in the mouth or even touched by hand. Many spoons, because of ease of use ,are designed with a curve in the handle and , if viewed from the side only touch the bench/ shelf in two small places . The photo I posted was of a stilt for higher firing...no metal, may have gone out of style .
  10. The placementf of the stilts are important. First image I would place the rows of stilts along the base so pot is not suspended. In the other images I would put about 3 stilts under the base , but with those shapes, why glaze the bottoms? It may be that you need to make ware a little thicker. Is this a one of , many successful firings prior to this? Then I would question the clay body. What is your firing schedule to C6? Put cones in kiln for sure if haven't done this for a while. How did unstilted pots go?
  11. Yummy and beautiful pots. Do you have hakeme on outside of your plate?
  12. ??? Postal??? Mr, Mrs, Miss or any other way you want to address me by!:-))))) Geographically..Southern Australia via Timbuktoo
  13. Youneed to apply slip to a pot at certain moisture level of pot.wet the entire surfaces of pot afterf trimming then apply slip. Slip bloating away from pot often is not evident after bisque.
  14. Wow @Pres you are new truly retired.. Are you really ready to let go of that control :-))) You will love it!
  15. How much of actual spoon is in contact with the bench? Into the future could your design shape be altered so there is minimum contactwith bench/ kiln shelf. 16"" big ask to hang safely I'd reckon. You may find you only need a small spit at end of handle and another at the belly of the spoon in whicch case, a dab of resist or be prepared to lightly grind when placing on a spur..like used in cystal glazing may be the way to go. A spur do
  16. Look up work of Chris Campbell . She works with coloured clays in amazing ways
  17. Think jute is used. Recycled materials. I wil have a look
  18. Lots of large planters now made of it. Light and
  19. Turn it on high for 5-10 mins. Open lid to see if all elements glowing. A starting place.
  20. Keep it posted so I can see results. All th best. Fibro cement? Light and durable, can be moulded to look like anything, can bevused as plany pot if fails.
  21. In a sauna however don't usually have safe pathway out..... Why risk take if not essential. Testing time for you I think. You seem resistant to some logical thought processes. Would not the Scandis have used ceramic, renowned for high quality design work anbd ceramic have gone downthiis path?
  22. If ware is dry, I have successfuly fired for years using 1. 50C /hr to 100C If not sure of really dry ware Hold at 100C for 15mins 100C to 600 150C to end temp If kiln uneven , hold 10mins. Some folk hold around 700C to burn off stuff. Your clay may not need this. If thicker ware, slow down lower rate of rise. If densely tumbled packed kiln use a slower rate of firing initially too with longer hold at 100C
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