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Babs

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Posts posted by Babs

  1. Community Gallery and other outlets the best. Flawed pieces Op shop or, I do a Mark C, or give away to the fence posts in my area. Gallery perfect, well my "sets" are not sets but families. Never my ambition to do the perfect set. Did once upon a time but took the joy out of it for me. 

    Refire those that I deem would benefit for another roasting.

  2. A wash can be made with just water and oxide, e.g. iron oxide, cobalt oxide or black copper oxide.

    Some people apply to green ware and scrape or sand back prebisque. This means there is a dust hazard so appropriate protection required. Some texture may be lost in process depending on depth of texture.

    I have collected the dust from this process and used as slip on greenware.

    The other is to apply to bisque ware and wipe off with damp sponge. Some of wash penetrates the porous clay body and  thus change the colour of wiped areas.

    I have used commercial underglazes, thinned a little and used as above.

  3. Is this toxic workplace making functional pots?

    60% lead Bisilicate??? Your making a low fired clear glaze for hopefully non functional ware?

    Get out of there. Read up on lead posioning.

    Guess employer not providing sjowering facilities or total protective covering.

    The occupants of the lead town are called leadheads by the ignnorant. Their brain functions affected to extent the children score WAY below the norm in all aspects of the educational testing. One example only of how lead affects the body. This is from exposure in the wide open. You are in a confined area. Dont tell me you are mixing the powders in a non protected area. Whole place washed down every night..

    Laundering at home? You are pousoningbyour family 

     

  4. The factor of porosity would be key. If the sculpture absorbs moisture , freezes, water expands, you will get a cracking and shearing off.

    So firing to vitrification would be the way to go.

    The properties of the clay body which allows you to construct your sculpture best would have to be considered.

    I think I read of clay additives which when dried allow the forming of minute cracks around each piece whilst being great to increase tolerance of thermal shock may lead to cracking in instances such as yours.

    @glazenerd may be of help

  5. 6 minutes ago, Min said:

    @LouiseD, as others have said this is totally unsafe and probably illegal situation to have in a workplace. Looks like you are in England, I believe the link below would either be somewhere you should report the situation too or they should be able to redirect you if not. Take some photos if you can. Even if there wasn't lead in the glaze(s) it is extremely unsafe practice to spray glaze without adequate ventilation and well fitting PPE. 

    https://www.hse.gov.uk/contact/tell-us-about-a-health-and-safety-issue.htm

     

    If the lead is in a fritted form, apart from unsafe env. lead or no lead, would it make a difference?

  6. 53 minutes ago, oldlady said:

    you might look for a totally different job, starting today.   and report the business to whatever health organization controls such places.   you do not want the next person to be affected by this ridiculously wrong ignorance.    the employers need to be stopped.

    Absolutely needs reporting!!!!

    Will affect everybody!! 

    Please be responsible and blow the whistle.

    Your family will be at risk if you launder at home or wear your clothes home.

    Children in a town here are tested for blood levels of lead and are not allowed to play in the yards, mums clean houses surfaces 3-4 times a day because of wind borne lead.

    Don't just get out of there  , report it.

    What ceramics are being made?

  7. Is the glaze recipe available?

    Does it contain fritted lead?

    If your employer is not educating you re all dangers when working with lead there is lack of due diligence and could lead to serious health issues.

    You could be carrying lead home on your clothes and hair. It is absorbed through the skin. Can damage the brain. 

    Hope the ceramic objects are not functional. Lead could leach out of glazes and poison the user.

    Be careful. Very serious.

     

  8. 16 minutes ago, Ben xyz said:

    It’s hi-contrast line art taken from an old advertisement, one color. Have ordered underglaze decal sheets in the past, but likely they were silkscreened onto the tissue paper. Perhaps I need to research screening processes to make this happen. Since it will be a one-off, had been hoping for an easier solution. Thanks for Mariko’s info - good to have if I end up going with an overglaze decal in the future.

    A one of! How valuable is your time?

    I've noticed ythat newspaper print does transfer onto clay, Could you print, folk will know what printer inks work best, a copy of your image, place on clay, dampen and roll, remove,  then paint it with underglazes?

    Just a thought.

  9. Need to run a meticulous logbook for every firing. Time ,hours on,psi reading, temp rise,  positionif  damper, air intakes.and importantly results of glazes used. Total length of firing. A photo of kiln stacking would be good too . Once you've found your cool spots you can place glazes which don't mind that there.

    The sculptor may have been only fIring to a low cone.

    Aftwr you get your bagwall in, don't think your focus needs to be as much on the stacking, but gas, air and damper positions

  10. 3 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:

    So here is a thought that may make sense and an idea for evenness.

    If your shelf is close to the perforated grill it restricts the gasses from leaving by way of the flue. If your shelf is elevated higher above the perforated floor, not so much restriction so …….. you may be able to control this by closing your damper more than usual. The consistency here is anytime your damper is opened too far your kiln fails to rise or begins to drop. Might be a simple way to control your firings no matter how you need to stack (within reason) to fit your wares. Easy to test out anyway.

    Second tool would be slow firing at the end. Slow down to 60c degrees per hour in the last 100c can help things even out.

    Indeed. I am thinking the perforated floor and space beneath is equivalent of the space below the lowest shelf in most kilns designs. (NO perforated floor).

    No bag wall, reopening damper, heat flame sucked across bottom of kiln, temp drop.

    One big pot or lots of shelves , no matter,  keep a log, check everything and write up results hourly.

     

  11. Yeh well, aussie here, I built a vent above the stack and suspended a flue pipe  above the short stack with enough room to operate a damper. It reached up a few fluepipe lengths into the hood then to outside I was firing inside a shed so  needed to draw the fumes up into the hood a ways.

    Fibre kiln. .fired fast up, (only used tge pilot lights for first couple of hours), and dropped down  very fast unless sorted.

  12. I am not seeing the flu anywhere.

    What are your flames looking like as they enter the kiln 

    Think you need to get the bagwall in level with bottom shelf. Direct suck out the bottom if not.

    Readjusting the airintake after reduction.

    Reduction all the way, some bodies wont like it, some glazes wont be as attractive...

    John Eagle had a great article in Journal of Australian Ceramics 2008.

  13. On 11/22/2022 at 2:15 PM, Antoinette Brown said:

    That kiln is named high-tech kiln. That makes me assume that they thought something when they did this ( things were usually thought through back then) . But what I will do is to sacrifice one kiln stilt and cut a notch in it to have a half shelf standing up. I attached a pic on this it worked well. 

    port o kiln.jpg

    Thinking, maybe, because that floor IS perforated, rhe bottom shelf is ok to be lower as in first photos

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