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  2. I was leaning this way myself, looks like I’ll just go ahead and order some corelite ones! Thanks! Need to try and find some pottery supply stores here in the pacific NW that I can get all this kind of stuff from now….
  3. I bought Corelite shelves for my new kiln, I have only 16 firings on them so I can't review them yet. I was a little disappointed when I got them I thought they would be a lot lighter than my old standard shelves. I guess at my age I should be happy with a little less weight. Denice
  4. Today
  5. I prefer Corelite. They're about the same price and last longer.
  6. First off, major kudos to the original poster for snagging that gig! It's not easy to find a job doing what you love, especially in such a niche field like ceramics. I can only imagine the thrill of spending your days getting your hands dirty, molding clay into beautiful pieces of art.
  7. Thanks for the info! When I met with the seller she said she used to fire her ceramics in it along with a Skutt kiln she had as well. Definitely will ask her more questions!
  8. Ok, will ask the seller if I can get pictures of the inside! Thanks for the advice
  9. Thanks for the advice all. I think I am going to go with a few full and the rest half and just see how it goes and what I end up liking. Looks like advancer shelves that will fit my kiln are on backorder until august/september, so I am going to have to get something else. I was on the fence about them anyway since apparently I would still have to kiln wash since I use porcelain. So I am trying to decide between corelite or high alumina shelves... anyone have any recommendations in that area? I would not be firing to cone ten very often but I think I might be doing 7 or 8 with some frequency. Thanks again!
  10. We (several fellow potters and I) are gearing up for a second pit fire, after conducting our first last year. I'm striving to be more methodical this time, so not only paying attention to what I treat pots with pre-fire, but also trying to do more "planning" on color expectations versus just winging it. As such, looking for advice from those who have done more than one pit fire experience on colorants that have provided good results, and behave somewhat predictably. Also curious about materials used for combustion. Last time laid a bed of pine saw dust which burned well, but I think contributed to a lot of unattractive heavy, black markings on pots that were in direct contact with it. Wondering if a hardwood sawdust would be a better alternative. Welcome to any suggestions or shared experiences. Thanks!
  11. Yes, you just have to make sure they're sitting evenly. A waster slab across the joint is also helpful.
  12. The GT400 is a good wheel for most people. It'll handle the vast majority of what most potters make, especially students.
  13. Looks more like a glass kiln than a pottery kiln. Like Mark said, photos of the inside would help, as well as the dimensions of the interior.
  14. Photos of the inside would help but my guess is this a glass annealing kiln by the looks of shape and handle on lid.That means its not for ceramics. This brand I think is pretty old-call Alpha Fired Arts in Sac and ask abouit when they went out of business as well as what type og kilns they made.
  15. I do not like the shimps I have demonstrated on.That being the wisper.Or the oldser lever conested to foof pedal cone drive. You could look for a used Brent.
  16. All good pug mills use vacuum systems but it works as the clay is being beat up with a screw during that process exposing the air under vacuum. The bowl I do not think will have any effect. Wedging will remove them if done right
  17. Years ago, when I was working with glazes, I usually used tin oxide as an opacifier for white. Then as tin oxide became more expensive I started looking for different opacifiers for my white glazes going through the different -paxes and finding them not quite to my liking so I started using combinations of opacifiers for the whites that I liked as liner glazes. Then I played with adding rutile for a creamy looking liner glaze and a low percentage of cobalt for a icy glaze. HOwever, I have been wondering with the raise in price on glaze materials if others have found better solutions for opacifiers in their glazes? Have glaze chemical prices forced you to make changes in your White glazes? best, Pres
  18. Yesterday
  19. Hi anyone own and uses the Pacifica GT400 pottery wheel? If so, what are your thoughts on the torque and overall power? I love my old Brent I personally use, and recently added a Shrimpo VL lite to my studio for teaching. Not a huge fan of the Shrimpo VL lite. I'd love to buy another Brent as my third wheel, but they're just so pricey, so looking for other options. Appreciate your thoughts and opinions!
  20. Do you sit platters across half shelves with success, asking as I get older and older and full shelves heavier and heavier..
  21. I’m debating getting this used kiln but I can’t find any information on it. I’m mainly wondering what is the max cone/how hot it gets and the overall quality of the brand. I have a picture attached of the label as well as the kiln in general. Let me know if you have any info about it!!
  22. Slam wedging before you hand wedge and sometimes if your hand is twisting the wrong way you wedge bubbles back into it. I use my recycled clay for handbuilding or mold making, I don't hand wedge any more. I slam wedge clay from a fresh bag, I go a step further and put the bag of clay in a 5 gal bucket of water a day or two before. The clay comes out smooth and even consistency and soft enough for old tired wrist, fingers and hand to throw. If is is to soft I will pull the plastic down and let it air dry for awhile. Denice
  23. I don't think you can just put a block of clay into a container and suck the air out of it. The clay is likely much too dense for that. When clay goes through a pugmill vacuum chamber it's being moved around and cut up via the auger, or in the case of larger industrial 2 stage puggers, it's cut into small bits as it enters the vacuum chamber, then moved out via an auger.
  24. Going to try Soldate 60, will let you know how it goes. I threw with Laguna buff sculpture the other day and it was super gritty and pretty uncomfortable to throw with but perhaps that's just an adjustment I need to make from B-Mix.
  25. I have been recycling my clay and general have about 20 lbs each time I do it. I heave wedged it until the cows come home but it seams like there is almost always a air bubble that ruins my project. Has anyone tried using a vacuum bowl after wedging to remove the air bubbles. I know some pug mulls use a vacuum system. Thanks
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    • Hulk

      Was catching up on foot polishing, washing, and inspection this week, then took a few new pictures.
      I like this teapot. It pours well too!
       

      · 2 replies
    • SWalker

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    • pottery007

      Hi all, any and all questions posted by me will be related to an ongoing research I am currently conducting on the possible applications of biophilic design in creating sound generating pottery. I came across a captivating story on ancient sounds being recorded on pottery only to realize that it was all a hoax. Anyway, it led me to exploring other ways in which we could probably include mechanisms that could create sound through clay/ceramics/pottery. I am exploring an indirect implication of biophilic or natural elements such as the imitation of the sound of wind, water, bird sounds etc. through pottery all while figuring out if there is a niche for this.
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      dropped my bison trimming tool that I have had and used for 9 years.
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