Rebekah Krieger Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 So as you know I am still slowly building my supplies of glaze mixing materials (and gathering colorants). I have no clue which iron oxides I should be looking for. Is there an article or information I can read on these? I plan to mostly do mid fire, It seems these Oxides vary based on what ^ I am firing?? I feel totally clueless about this. thanks for the insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 You answered your own question thanks for the insight. Go to Digitalfire.com. Lots of free info. Better yet get the Level II version of Insight,...and get the paid service data. best, .........................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Is there more than just red iron oxide Fe2O3 and black iron oxide FeO? The only difference I know between the two is colour and that red iron oxide is more refractory and black iron oxide is more flux. If you reduction fire red iron oxide it changes to black iron oxide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 I've only every stocked red iron oxide in my studio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 All you need to know . . . (famous last words) http://ceramicartsdaily.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/cmtechnofileiron.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Stay away from using the hexavalent Iron Chormate for the iron/chrome combination. Serious carcinogen. Re-calculate molecularly using red iron oxide and green chromium oxide. best, .................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 I use ochre to get good celadon colours in cone 10 reduction. I do use Red Art, small amounts of Alberta slip, rutile and red iron oxide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 i tried yellow iron oxide once. glaze came out the same as the spanish red iron oxide i have used since a bought the whole 50 lb bag in about 1975. it will never be used up by me. unless you really like the color of glazes made with it and plan to experiment in glaze chemistry very heavily, ordinary RIO will probably do. it is cheap, buy it once so you do not have to worry about a "new batch" later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 Yellow iron oxide can be used in place of Yellow ochre. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 stick to the basics as you start-red Iron oxide-cobalt-crome etc. Oldlady-I think I'm my 3-4th 50# bag of red iron now. I seem to fo thru more rutile than red iron. If you cannot get it local try US Pigments mail order for colorants Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alabama Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Sometimes you can find oxides out in the wild. While driving north of Brewton, Ala we pulled off the road and saw a field of some type of ferrous sandstone and when picked up revealed powdered yellow iron oxide(Limonite)...as the rocks weathered down they left powdered deposits. In north Alabama limonite comes in nodes. They wash out of the hillside and fall in the ditches so all you have to do is fill up buckets of the stuff. The best way to make it into a powder (if not much is needed) is to rub the nodes over medium sandpaper, then tap the paper and the oxides collect at the bottom. Red iron oxide(hematite) is mixed with clays so it would have to be separated somehow. Black iron oxide comes in hard nodules and has to be pounded with hammers. If burnished into clay surfaces red and black iron doesn't seem to change. Yellow iron oxide changes from a dirty yellow to a red orange color. To be consistant in a glaze, you'd probably want to purchase oxides from a supplier. I think they're cheap. See ya, Alabama Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.Banks Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 I just happen to have a few bookmarks: *one already mentioned http://ceramicartsdaily.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/cmtechnofileiron.pdf http://web.ncf.ca/bf250/glazeiron.html At the risk of drawing the ire of the more lettered technicians if you are just starting to melt stuff don't worry about limits and masses and software too much - all that can come later. It all comes down to finding good glass and if you can 'feel' your way through a recipe the results will have more meaning when it comes to fixing/fiddling. Hessleberth and Roy iirc have a good article on making 'good glass'. I'll try to find it again - or maybe someone has the link. re. Black Iron Oxide Mine requires no pounding although the semi-arid climate might have someting to do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.Banks Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 I took a closer look through my bookmarks and found this somewhat obscure and off-topic link: Glazes - for the Self-reliant Potter http://www.fastonline.org/CD3WD_40/CD3WD/APPRTECH/G17GLE/EN/B483_14.HTM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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