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$$#x%!&(* Caught The Flu And Let My Bowls Dry Before Trimming!

trimming dry pots

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#1 hershey8

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 01:44 PM

I should have kept everything in a damp box, but I didn't. Also, I should have gotten a flu shot, but I didn't! My wife tried to tell me, and I should have listened....but....

Anyway, now I have a dozen dry bowls that need to be trimmed to form a foot. I also may want to do some carving on these bowls. Do I mist them, cover them with a damp towel, set them out in the rain, or just let dry ones be bygones? ja



#2 Kohaku

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 01:48 PM

I know a local potter (Michael Wendt) who trims everything at the bone hard stage. He uses sheet metal trimmers that he makes himself... and a very good air filtration system. I'd never do this myself, but I can't argue with his results...


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#3 MikeFaul

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 02:00 PM

A tomato paste can opened with safe rim can opener that doesn't leave a sharp edge works extremely well on bone dry clay in a pinch.

 

 

And much of dust goes up into the can, most not all... I suggest a HEPA mask if you have one...



#4 Chris Campbell

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 02:04 PM

So sorry you were ill ... With a bit of patience and some time all will be well.
Put down a piece of plastic. Place each bowl on a piece of newspaper in a group. Surround it with a fairly wet ... but not dripping ... towel, making sure the towel does not actually touch any pots. Cover tightly with plastic and wait. They will absorb the humidity evenly and you should be good to go.

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#5 bciskepottery

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 02:09 PM

If you have a damp box, now is the time.  Make sure the damp box plaster is wet, then spritz your bowls and put them inside.  Hopefully they will reabsorb moisture from the wet plaster and rehydrate.  They key will be to rehydrate slowly and evenly. 



#6 Mark C.

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 02:20 PM

What Chris said

Mark


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#7 Celia UK

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 05:13 PM

I agree with bciskepottery - into the damp box and they'll come back slowly & evenly.

#8 mregecko

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 06:24 PM

In my experience, it usually takes more time for the clay to reconstitute than it would to throw it in reclaim and just make new pieces.

 

That said, if I'm feeling like I want to give it a try, I'll dunk the whole piece in the sink, hold it for a few seconds, then throw it in a damp box or under some plastic.

 

Sometimes it works.



#9 Chris Campbell

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 06:37 PM

In my experience, it usually takes more time for the clay to reconstitute than it would to throw it in reclaim and just make new pieces.
 
That said, if I'm feeling like I want to give it a try, I'll dunk the whole piece in the sink, hold it for a few seconds, then throw it in a damp box or under some plastic.
 
Sometimes it works.


This only works with a very forgiving clay body! Others will simply collapse, crack or shatter.

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#10 hershey8

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 10:23 PM

Awesome words of advice, knowledge and encouragement. Thank you all. Merry Christmas/ Happy Holidays!    

                                                 

                                                                               ja



#11 MikeFaul

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 10:08 AM

If you have a damp box, now is the time.  Make sure the damp box plaster is wet, then spritz your bowls and put them inside.  Hopefully they will reabsorb moisture from the wet plaster and rehydrate.  They key will be to rehydrate slowly and evenly. 

 

We found a quick way to make these... The Container Store sell water tight trunks, sealed with a nice gasket. We poured a 1.5" thick plaster slab in the bottom, cleaned it all up real nice after the plaster set up, spray water on the plaster so that it remains saturated, but not overly so such that water is displaced from the plaster. If it pools on the plaster it's saturated, just wipe up the pool before placing your wares inside.

 

Place your dry wares into the bin, seal it, forget it, in a week's time it's like trimming butter. Same principle that Chris mentions above, only a nice sealed container you can use over and over again. And, they are designed to stack too, they sort of interlock. We've stacked them 6 high no problem, and put them on mover's dollies so they can be repositioned to different stations as needed. And, they have holes on the lids for locks, when it's not freezing we can push them out of the studio and into a shed on the deck.

 

http://www.container...ductId=10024301



#12 Babs

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 06:48 PM

 

If you have a damp box, now is the time.  Make sure the damp box plaster is wet, then spritz your bowls and put them inside.  Hopefully they will reabsorb moisture from the wet plaster and rehydrate.  They key will be to rehydrate slowly and evenly. 

 

We found a quick way to make these... The Container Store sell water tight trunks, sealed with a nice gasket. We poured a 1.5" thick plaster slab in the bottom, cleaned it all up real nice after the plaster set up, spray water on the plaster so that it remains saturated, but not overly so such that water is displaced from the plaster. If it pools on the plaster it's saturated, just wipe up the pool before placing your wares inside.

 

Place your dry wares into the bin, seal it, forget it, in a week's time it's like trimming butter. Same principle that Chris mentions above, only a nice sealed container you can use over and over again. And, they are designed to stack too, they sort of interlock. We've stacked them 6 high no problem, and put them on mover's dollies so they can be repositioned to different stations as needed. And, they have holes on the lids for locks, when it's not freezing we can push them out of the studio and into a shed on the deck.

 

http://www.container...ductId=10024301

 

Was about to ask what you guys use as damp boxes, thanks.  Holes in the lids? How does this fir with water tight?



#13 MikeFaul

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 07:12 PM

  Holes in the lids? How does this fir with water tight?

The holes are on the rim outside the boundary of the gasket, we use them to put a padlock on the bins and lock the lids closed. When we store stacked bins outside in the shed it keeps curious minds from getting into trouble. If someone really wanted in they'll get in, but it does serve to deter the curious, just not the determined.

#14 bciskepottery

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 07:42 PM

The damp box tutorial.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=_y_f9mV381k



#15 Chilly

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 04:54 AM

 

The first thing I made from plaster.  It's absolutely great, I just wish I could find taller, narrower boxes to use.  I don't want to fill so much floor space, but would like more height!

 

I look at plastic containers everytime I go into a shop.  One day I'll find something...........


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#16 Babs

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 05:09 PM

 

 

The first thing I made from plaster.  It's absolutely great, I just wish I could find taller, narrower boxes to use.  I don't want to fill so much floor space, but would like more height!

 

I look at plastic containers everytime I go into a shop.  One day I'll find something...........

 

Tight sealing plastic bucket?? I have onethat I speak strongly to every time I try to remove the lid.



#17 Pugaboo

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 10:26 PM

For a tall plastic container that seals you might try a dog food storage container. Check one of the pet shops in your area as I have one I use for dog food but it's quite tall the lid seals and it's semi clear so you can see what's inside it. It will hold 70 pounds of dog food if you are interested I'll see if I can't take a tape measure to it and get the exact measurements.

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#18 Celia UK

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Posted 01 January 2014 - 04:08 PM

I just use standard loose-lidded plastic storage crates from the DIY store or 'cheap' shop as in the 'Magic Box' YouTube clip. No need to pay for airtight in my experience, but they do look as if they would do a really good job! Am thinking would be good for my spare clay.

Chilly - you can get some quite deep ones - about 60cm tall - and stack them 3 high. For me shallower are better as I don't make anything over 20cm high (yet!) and the extra height is then empty space.

#19 MichaelP

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Posted 02 January 2014 - 02:46 AM

I wonder how his moist plaster looks in a few weeks. All covered with black mildew underneath? I once let a newly made plaster block, after trimming and washing, dry on top of my canvas covered table. One week later both canvas and the bottom of the block became black.

 

For a dump box I use regular RubberMaid-type container with a moist sponge placed inside.



#20 Chilly

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Posted 02 January 2014 - 06:34 AM

I made mine back in September, and there are leather hard handles sitting in there, still as they were.  No mould on anything.  It lives in my greenhouse, which is unheated, and cold and damp this time of year, my watering cans freeze solid when it's really cold.

 

I'm really pleased with mine, it's such an easy way to keep things "in the state you left them".


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