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Nancy S.

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    225
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About Nancy S.

  • Rank
    My day job pays for my clay habit
  • Birthday 03/18/1977

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  • Website URL
    http://www.etsy.com/shop/nanspin

Profile Information

  • Location
    Harrisburg area, PA
  • Interests
    Pottery (of course), sewing, and baking elaborate desserts.
  1. I had this *exact* same issue recently, and I think it might be due to a bit of "mystery clay" (which is likely low-fire, ^04) contaminating my ^6 stuff. Have you been doing any clay mixing lately?
  2. Akin, I know where you're coming from!! As a newbie it's hard to visualize a finished product from a lump (especially weight-wise), and factoring in shrinkage adds another level of complexity. I made a cup I thought would be perfect and after firing it's tiny. As much as we beginners hate to hear it....it takes practice. My scale is an old-fashioned kitchen scale with pounds ticked off and ounces marked in lines between. It's not precise but it doesn't have to be, really. Close truly is good enough. I think the lists that have such exacting amounts are for those potters who have a.) master
  3. C'mon, spring! I'm just itching to rewire the tin shop and get my own kiln up and running....

  4. Chilly - Ack! Sorry, I misread the post (same as someone else)...I think because I saw "in the kiln" and jumped to the wrong conclusion. So how'd that "brushing medium" work for your flaking problem? And is it just sodium silicate? (Because I do have some of that handy!) Mark - I don't have enough of the glaze to dip. It's all being brushed on.
  5. Chilly, this wasn't even fired yet, so the other post doesn't quite apply. These 'shinos' actually do quite well over other colors, especially the black...usually. Upon closer inspection it looks like the black got pulled up, too. But the really odd thing is that this only happened on ONE pot. The other, done the same way on the same day, is fine. I'll scrub it off and try again. How long should it dry after cleaning?
  6. Yep, put them on as soon as the base coat had set.
  7. I looked around and didn't find any other posts on this, so hopefully it's not a stupid question. I have a bowl that I glazed today with two others. They were all bisqued to 05, all made of Standard 630. I sponged them all off and glazed them in Coyote black, then one got a few layers of Plum Shino, while the other two got Leopard Shino. One of the latter two...well, it looks like the Shino flaked but the black is still on. What caused this? Too much water when cleaning them off? Or something else? Also, what's my best option to fix this one? Scrape off the flaky bits and reapply? Or do I
  8. Springtime warm-up! First day after the winter hiatus. :D

  9. Would you be able to post some photos of the kiln and the sitter? Does it have two sections or three? 1700 is probably the wattage for each section. (Wattage / voltage = amps, by the way; make sure your wiring is up to snuff.) Don't forget to check if it's a 3-phase or single-phase kiln; it should say 1P or 3P on that metal plate. Also, if I'm not mistaken, you can't make your kiln fire hotter than what it's made to do. If you set all of your dials (I'm assuming it's a manual kiln, since it's older) to high with a cone pack ranging from 5-10 (you can try 11 or 12, but only if you are s
  10. I'm in the same boat - got a used L&L (cheap) and couldn't get it to work even though the person I bought it from had fired it before selling it to me. The person I talked to, Rob, really knew his stuff and spent a lot of time on the phone with me as we troubleshooted...and he didn't call me a blithering idiot because the service to my outbuilding couldn't even support a 220v line in the first place (which explains a LOT why it didn't work!). So I am doubly sold on the L&L brand, from all that I've heard and my own experience. (Yet to fire the kiln...still need to rewire first...)
  11. The original face jugs were tiny - about 3"-4" -- and were fired in the little spaces between larger pieces that would normally go to waste. The one you're copying may have been much smaller than the one you've created!
  12. You can also try using a very soft rubber rib, like the red ones from Sherrill, to do a final smooth-over on the rim. Or, after bisque firing, use a stilt stone to grind down any rough areas...though this is tedious and makes a rather annoying noise...
  13. Hi! Quick question for you. I noticed on a post that you mentioned having worked with Standard 365 porcelain, and I'm wondering if you have any experience with 551? Also, how foolhardy would I be to go from stoneware to porcelain? ;) Thanks for your thoughts! (I can give you my email address if that's easier for you.)

    1. neilestrick

      neilestrick

      I have not used 551. I have tried a couple of their other porcelain like bodies, though, and was not impressed. Their 365 throws beautifully, so I don't feel like theirs any reason to go to a white body that is supposedly more plastic. I do 45 pound planters with it with the 365 with no cracking or warping problems. The transition from stoneware to porcelain can be awkward, but you'll get used to it. Any particular reason you want to switch?

  14. Thank you!! I just added a few more I found.
  15. I have added glazing info to my pottery gallery online, if anyone's interested -- it's mostly Coyote Glazes, but I'll be adding more Amaco and Mayco colors soon (once I test them and get photos)! http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rubian77/media/Pottery/blueapplebakers.jpg.html?sort=6&o=0
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