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About hershey8

  • Rank
    John Autry

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  • Location
    Mineral Bluff, Ga
  • Interests
    uh, oh yeah....pottery. Gardening, guitar pickin' and wood working are among my interests. Hershey was my chocolate lab; he vanished in Feb 16. He's still in the photo and in my heart.

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  1. 5 years? I thought I was a procrastinator! lol ja
  2. I recently picked up an old , junked refrigerator, from a used appliance store. Free! What a bargain! WHAT A DAMP BOX (procrastination box)!!! If you have room in your studio, you might consider getting one. Make sure the door gasket is good, and tape up any vent holes it might have with metal hvac tape. WOW, it holds a lot of untrimmed ware and mugs awaiting handles! This is not an original idea, but it is one that I had to share. I keep a pan of water and a couple of soaked sponges in it for added humidity. My leather-hard ware seems to love it. Up to now I have only had to use the freezer section , up top. Really a great place to let my mugs and newly applied handles get to know each other. ja
  3. Damp box. Problem solved. Just needed to let moisture equalize, s l o w l y.
  4. So, Min, it sounds like a little rehydration is in order to get the mug back to the same moisture content as the handle. I'll give it a shot and maybe spray a little on the bottom where it attaches. Thanks. j
  5. So I'm probably having NEMO issues. Nemo moisture, Nemo time.
  6. I'm unable to get a pic at this time. But the cracks are hairline and occur where the pushed , joined part of the handle meets the mug. I suspect that the difference in the moisture of the handle and the mug is the culprit. This is a green ware problem.
  7. I'll have to try that. I must just be rushing things a bit. I have some magic water, and a whole lot of wax resist that I never use. Tell me about your wet box, plaster bottom?
  8. I'm just now getting into it. No on the magic water and wax. I am using a covered box to slow down drying. But it's this thing about trimming when leather hard, but not to leather hard, that gets me. Maybe I should throw mug, attach handle, wait a couple of days and try trimming with handle attached. That could be interesting. lol I may try the wax, though. Thanks. j
  9. I've watched a lot of videos, and I still don't get it. "Trim your pots when they are LEATHER HARD." "Attach handles when mug is as soft as possible." SO which is it? If things are too dry, or if there is too much difference in moisture content of mug and handle you can expect cracks where the handle meets the mug.. I'm getting my fair share of them. Maybe the answer is to throw mugs that are perfect and need no trimming. RIGHT. I'm using stoneware clay from Standard. How can I avoid cracks. How am I supposed to repair cracks before firing? ja
  10. Thank you Min, I may be over thinking this. But n the future I will begin saving my scrap a differently, not tossing throwing water or fines. I will save it all in a bucket. Today, I'll start pugging the old with the new. I'm sure that will work. Thank you for your help. ja
  11. So , ideally, I should let all scrap clay dry out completely, pulverize to some degree, (working on a machine for that), add water and maybe some slop/slip of the same clay body with some vinegar. Mix , slake and pug.Let set for a couple of weeks and see how it works? Am I missing anything? Should I make some slip from new clay and add that? If the clay scraps are really small and very dry, how long does it really need to slake? ja
  12. I've been throwing flopped pot pieces and trimmings into a big container and misting. Did not slake. Maybe that's the problem.
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