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About MichaelP

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    IL/WI border
  1. I tried larger flame (weed killer) a couple of times before, but even with careful preheating of the whole piece, it always fractured. I will try my mini torch on small wax spots again. Thank you.
  2. The wax will burn above 500F, but the soot will remain until about 1000F is reached. I had an opportunity to prove it. So, in order to burn out wax resist off bisque stoneware and prepare its surface for glazing, I programmed my small kiln to run to 1050F at 600F/hr ramp rate, hold it there for 15 min, and turn off. I avoided all the potential problems of quartz inversion by keeping the max temperature just below the inversion point, yet high enough to almost completely eliminate the soot. P.S. My small kiln is capable of reaching 1000F at 30 min, but I felt uncomfortable to go t
  3. Copper pot in a sand is the gold standard, of course. But ceramic or metal ones on a gas stove produce a reasonable alternative outside of Turkey.
  4. The cross pin is the most reliable approach, of course. The handle will become loose with time, but, at least, it won't suddenly disconnect. When I was daydreaming, I was also thinking about a threaded connection plus a "set screw" (pin) or adhesive, but this would be a major undertaking considering clay shrinkage, etc. Bayonet connection augmented with a spring, pins or adhesive came to my mind too...
  5. It will definitely go well above the water boiling temperature because the attachment point is offset and subject to high heat of the nearby flame. P.S. The walls of the pot will stay cooler, of course, but considering the very low thermal conductivity of ceramics, the outside surface of the body at and near the bottom (near the flame) will also be overheated. Very much unlike copper pots or the above mentioned thin paper. As for the tapered connection alone, IMO, it will not work reliably for this particular application. The surfaces are not smooth enough to provide friction alon
  6. I checked on easily obtainable high temp adhesives, and it looks like the original J-B Weld Epoxy should work. It withstands 600F (continuous exposure).
  7. Thank you Neil. That's what I thought too, but this pot and some other similar pottery served us for about 25 years without any problem. The pot handle just loosened , but I don't see any obvious signs of adhesive there. At least, nothing similar to epoxy. Yet I'm sure it wasn't a simple friction that held it there. There are some high heat epoxies available now IIRC, but I'm not sure I can really trust them. So cross pin is one good option. What else?
  8. How do you attach wood handles to functional pottery, especially when the joint will be subjected to high heat? Here is an example, ceramic coffee pot ( cezve ) that is put on a gas stove to prepare Turkish coffee.
  9. John, Do you mean those segmented diamond dish (cup) wheels (that sound to me a way too aggressive for this purpose), "regular" (electroplated or rigid impregnated) flat or cupped non-segmented diamond discs, diamond impregnated rubber discs or those diamond pads that get attached to a rubber backer with Velcro? What grit? Do you happen to have a photo or a link showing the one you use/like? Thank you. Mike
  10. Van Gilder Hole Cutter http://www.vangilderpottery.com/_p/prd12/1286265301/product/hole-cutter http://www.theceramicshop.com/product/1739/Hole-Cutter-Van-Gilder/?gclid=CLXcou-XgtECFQgOaQodzx0GDQ http://www.clay-king.com/pottery_tools/van_gilder_tools.html P.S. I know it's an old thread, but I hope the updated links may be helpful for someone besides myself.
  11. Mug, What model(s) of Iwata do you prefer? Here they are: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_5?url=search-alias%3Dtoys-and-games&field-keywords=iwata+airbrush&sprefix=iwata%2Ctoys-and-games%2C204 Thanks. Mike
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