GreyBird Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Does anyone know if this plaster is OK to make a wedging table with? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-25-lbs-White-Dry-Mix-Plaster-of-Paris-10312/100123682 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Hi Grey, There are several threads on plaster use here - the consensus being use potter's plaster (else even better/more expensive stuff...), e.g. https://www.aardvarkclay.com/proddetail.php?prod=plaster%231 I'm about 2/3 through my first bag - bats and slabs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 No its not as good as #1 pottery plaster-go get it at a ceramics store. Not a big box store-not the same or as good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 OK, I ordered the good stuff, Hydrocal, from Baileys. Next question... I am going to fill the top of this table I have with plaster. I'm wondering, if I mix it a bucket at a time will I be able to do it quick enough to fill the table before the bottom layer of plaster begins to set. I'm thinking that might make the plaster weak. Do I have to mix the entire amount to fill the tabletop at one time in order to get best results? The table top is 23" X 65" X 4". Is there a time frame I should shoot for if mixing in batches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 may i ask why so big a plaster table? what do you plan to do with it? wedging works on an 18x18 concrete patio block so your huge table would not be for merely wedging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Well, I used to work in an art supply store years ago, until it went out of business. The owner gave me this awesome, super sturdy bench with slide out drawers and lots of cubbies for art supplies. I've been using the small 18" square of plaster to wedge on for quite a while and I've been pondering making a new one. Especially since for instance today I had a bunch of slab work I wanted to do but couldn't because I'm drying this river clay slurry on my small wedging block. I was researching how to make a wedging table and it mentioned using a formica countertop as a base and using wood for the four sides etc. Then I noticed that the top of my supply bench is formica and has a four inch border right, left and back. I just needed to screw a piece of woo across the front and. I'm ready to pour. I'd have a nice large functional top. I love the idea of doing it in sections. That will work well. I could in that case decide to only pour half the top but I think I'd still like to do the whole top.bI mean why not... more room! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 #1 pottery plaster is the best -not sure why the hyrodcal? I have a huge table but its my living-its really two separate tables for white and brown clays-they are separate . I would divide your table in at least two if not three sections with a 1x4 or 2x6 whatever fits best to be even with the top. Make your pours in those sections-get some help and mix a few buckets at the same time then pour a section. Just to remind you that table will be extremely heavy to move.Mine never moves-ever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Thanks. I will never ever move the table Actually, the Bailey's website isn't working very well, They're working on a new one, so they'll need to call me on Monday to straighten out the order which the website completely botched. I'll switch from Hydrocal to #1 Pottery Plaster. I had ordered Hydrocal just based on the product description that said it is harder and more durable. But if you say #1 is best, I believe you! Also I found a great source for figuring exactly how many bags I'll need: http://www.lakesidepottery.com/HTML Text/Tips/Making Wedging Table.htm But I can tackle all that tomorrow Thanks so much for all our help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 P.S. The four inch height may be overkill. I could build a 2" or 3" frame within the outer 4" lip of the table and pour into those sections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 You can use the Hydrocal if you don't feel like exchanging it. It'll work fine. I would definitely block off about half that top, unless you want to use it for drying out reclaim as well as wedging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 I definitely will be using a lot of river clay so will need to be using it to dry that. I make it into a slurry then dry until workable on plaster. So yes, I use the plaster surface for more than wedging. I also like it for setting slabs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 I think hydracal is tougher surface-but as Neil say it will work fine. I agree about making it that large it will be really heavy . My slabs of plaster are not wrapped in wood anymore as I removed them so the slabs dry out better after absorbing wet clay. Something to consider in a tight table like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 OK, so after a good night sleep, I've decided to not fill the tabletop with plaster, but instead to make wood frames and pour individual 2'x2' slabs. This way I can move them around the studio or line them up on the table if I want and the edges will be open so they can expel moisture better as Mark makes a good point about the slabs drying better that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 looking at all that nice,horizontal surface you were planning to use for plaster made me think about the height of that table and how comfortable (or not) it would be for wedging. i do not wedge often and use a lower tabletop for it so i can lean some weight into the spiral. i would consider using the underside of that big tray as a worktable. that would depend on your height and what you might need to do to flip it over. beautiful daylight through the window, it would make a marvelous place to assemble things, add handles, etc. just about elbow height is very good for your posture if you stand to work. you might think about it. trying to work inside a trough would be limiting but the underside, yes, it might work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 I agree I think it is too high for a wedging table. It is 35" tall and add 2 to 4" of plaster and, well, too high. I just liked the idea of having that nice horizontal apace, as you mentioned, for work. I'm not sure what you are referring to when you mention the "underside of that bid tray"? I know my shot is cluttered with stuff because I had cleared off the top of the art supply cabinet in prep for my big plaster project so it can be hard to see exactly what's what but there is a big red worktable in the center and the art table against the back wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 At the height you have, it may work very well as a finishing table, add a banding wheel to it, and you have a good work area for finishing pieces. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 your picture is fine, but where you see an Art table, i see a trough. a place with sides that would interfere with putting my arm down on the horizontal surface. the brown part of your art table. it looks like a long tray as it stands now. if you unscrew the brown part and flip it upside down, you might have a flat, horizontal tabletop. maybe, i don't know what is underneath the board that is holding your fan, just screw holes or something else. or, just put a piece of plywood across the whole thing for a top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Yea, it is part of a larger structure that I could not take apart. Keep in mind though I screwed the front piece of wood on thinking I would be filling it with plaster. This morning I took it back off as my plan changed. So the whole front is open to rest your arms on. In any case, I prefer to work at the red table because I can site at a chair and work where the supply bench I would have to stand. I am not fond of standing for long periods of time. LOL. See in pic.. I started moving stuff back as I use it as more of a bench for tools and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 ahhh............. a really handy storage space with those big drawers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joy pots Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Why not slide in a piece for cement board the size of the table for a wedge board. My husband screwed an L shaped joined to hold it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 I never heard of cement board. I'll look it up. Thanks! Does it remove water like plaster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Cement board is for backing tile surfaces and goes by many brands-durarock-hardie backer etc. Its at those big box stores.Comes in various sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreyBird Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Thanks, is it as absorbent and durable as plaster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Durable, absorbant, and replaceable. Some of them are a bit rough, but others are smoother. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 There is several different type of tile backer board now. Some of them aren't very absorbent, I would do some research on them before I bought one. Avoid the original Hardibacker board it is some kind of pressed fiber that doesn't hold up to water. I think they have a new one that is for the exterior that is water resistant. I have also seen one that is some kind of treated sheetrock material. Even the concrete backers can have added materials to them. I bought some that was concrete but thinner, lighter and stiffer for a mural, but I don't think it would be good for clay work. Denice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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