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Best Food Safe Cone 6 Black Satin Matte


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Anything that is going to be dinnerware safe at cone 6 and have a satin/matte surface is not going to be as easy as a simple recipe. Your going to have to test numerous firing schedules and slight changes in chemistry to get a surface that is scratch resistant. 

 

There a tons of satin/matte black recipes at cone 6, just start trying them and you will see how hard it is to get one that doesn't mark with a butterknife.

 

Here is where I would start : http://digitalfire.com/4sight/education/g1214z_cone_6_matte_base_glaze_122.html

 

Add some % stain of your choosing and start testing schedules.

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I've been testing a ^6 dolomite matte blended with a clear glaze to fine tune the amount of matteness I can get away with and still have a glaze that doesn't cutlery mark. For different colours the amount of clear needed really varies as the stains, opacifiers and colouring oxides make a difference to the melt. For black I have had success with a 50/50 blend of dolomite matte with my low coe clear plus 6% Mason 6600. 

 

It has survived vinegar testing but I haven't had it lab tested.

 

^6 Dolomite Matte G2934

 

3124                   17.4

EPK                    18.3

Dolomite             23.5

Silica                   26.9

Calcined Kaolin  13.9

                          100

 

 

http://digitalfire.com/4sight/recipes/plainsman_cone_6_dolomite_matte_base_121.html?logout=yes

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if you do get a matte glaze, do not use it on interiors that are expected to hold water unless you test it for at least 24 hours.  put the pot on a paper towel or napkin and leave it alone for as long as you can, minimum 24 hours.  then scrape it with a fork or spoon and test it again.  bet it leaks.

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if you do get a matte glaze, do not use it on interiors that are expected to hold water unless you test it for at least 24 hours.  put the pot on a paper towel or napkin and leave it alone for as long as you can, minimum 24 hours.  then scrape it with a fork or spoon and test it again.  bet it leaks.

 

Unless it's earthenware shouldn't the pot be water tight even without a glaze, matte or glossy?

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This is one I liked the sound of, glad to hear it's getting hopeful results. How did you decide on the clear, Min? I have a noncrazing clear I like, I figured I'd use that.

 

 

I've been testing a ^6 dolomite matte blended with a clear glaze to fine tune the amount of matteness I can get away with and still have a glaze that doesn't cutlery mark. For different colours the amount of clear needed really varies as the stains, opacifiers and colouring oxides make a difference to the melt. For black I have had success with a 50/50 blend of dolomite matte with my low coe clear plus 6% Mason 6600.

 

It has survived vinegar testing but I haven't had it lab tested.

 

^6 Dolomite Matte G2934

 

3124 17.4

EPK 18.3

Dolomite 23.5

Silica 26.9

Calcined Kaolin 13.9

100

 

 

http://digitalfire.com/4sight/recipes/plainsman_cone_6_dolomite_matte_base_121.html?logout=yes

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Charcoal Satin Matte  

provided by Toni Smith

 

Wollastonite       23.2

 

frit 3124              31.0

 

epk                    31.7

 

silica                   14.1

              total    100

 

add dark rutile   6.0

 

add mason stain 6600    10.0

 

best luck

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This is one I liked the sound of, glad to hear it's getting hopeful results. How did you decide on the clear, Min? I have a noncrazing clear I like, I figured I'd use that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I use a clay that needs a low coe glaze and I wanted to have some  magnesium in the recipe so I used G1215U. I'm going to test it with my version of that glaze, without the 3249 frit as that is so expensive and hard for me to get where I live.

 

G1215U

EPK  14

Silica 26

Wollastonite  14.5

Minspar  24

Frit 3249  20

98.5

 

 g1215u sub

Silica 34.50

Wollastonite 5.00

EP Kaolin 23.00

Nepheline Syenite 2.90

Minspar  12.00

Gerstley Borate 22.00

Talc 3.00 

Dolomite 3.00

105.40

 

The G1215U is very clear when used as is, my version is a titch yellowish so not suitable to use as a clear on white claybodies but I use it with oxides and stains in other glazes.

 

I like the idea of being able to adjust the level of mattness of a glaze so the idea of blending the matte with the clear seemed logical. 

post-747-0-84654800-1442951761_thumb.jpg

post-747-0-84654800-1442951761_thumb.jpg

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min, part of the problem with black matte glazes is that you cannot really see the crazing that sometimes happens.  the glaze recipe has been developed by and fired by a person who works one way, the average user probably will not be using the exact same way of working with the exact same kind of kiln using the exact same firing rate and the exact same clay as the person who developed the recipe.  the odds are in my favor in any bet i make that the pot will leak.

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Chantal and OldLady, yup, that was my point. Functional pots shouldn't leak, glazed or not. (except lowfire)
Re black glaze, I had an email conversation with Ron Roy and he spoke of being able to see crazing on one of his black glazes when he had a bowl filled with mashed potatoes and the steam from them highlighted the crazed glaze.

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  • 4 months later...

 

This is one I liked the sound of, glad to hear it's getting hopeful results. How did you decide on the clear, Min? I have a noncrazing clear I like, I figured I'd use that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I use a clay that needs a low coe glaze and I wanted to have some  magnesium in the recipe so I used G1215U. I'm going to test it with my version of that glaze, without the 3249 frit as that is so expensive and hard for me to get where I live.

 

G1215U

EPK  14

Silica 26

Wollastonite  14.5

Minspar  24

Frit 3249  20

98.5

 

 g1215u sub

Silica 34.50

Wollastonite 5.00

EP Kaolin 23.00

Nepheline Syenite 2.90

Minspar  12.00

Gerstley Borate 22.00

Talc 3.00 

Dolomite 3.00

105.40

 

The G1215U is very clear when used as is, my version is a titch yellowish so not suitable to use as a clear on white claybodies but I use it with oxides and stains in other glazes.

 

I like the idea of being able to adjust the level of mattness of a glaze so the idea of blending the matte with the clear seemed logical. 

 

This looks beautiful and in your firing schedule its cutlery mark resistant? Do you slow cool or is this with a natural cooling?

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This looks beautiful and in your firing schedule its cutlery mark resistant? Do you slow cool or is this with a natural cooling?

 

 

If I really try and scrape it with way more force than you would use cutlery with then I can get a faint mark but for all intents and purposes I would say no to cutlery marking. I did up the amount of clear slightly from when I posted the original test piece. I'm using 55 grams of clear plus 50 grams of dolomite matte plus 7 grams of best black stain. 

 

Definite sort of to your slow cool question. I only use my front loader when firing this glaze and it has 5 1/2" walls so it cools very slowly. I haven't had to add a slow cool ramp down, haven't fired it in the other kilns since it works as is in the front loader, sorry can't really answer that question.

 

It's a lovely silky feeling glaze, much like the ^10 dolomite mattes.  It makes a really nice white with tin. 

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