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Everything posted by Min

  1. Going camping for a few days.

  2. Min

    Engobe Questions

    This would be his slip recipe for mocha diffusion, nice and alkaline so it works well for that process. 3 basic engobe recipes from the late Robin Hopper here along with some slip decoration application methods.
  3. I was going to order a couple slab mats and am looking for some reviews about how durable they are and any positive or negative feedback from people who use them. Any thoughts?
  4. Min

    Why make functional ware?

    LOL thing is I only make right handed coffee mugs and she was looking for a left
  5. Min

    Why make functional ware?

    My all time classic favourite is when I got heck from a woman (putting it politely) for selling Lazy Susan's. Oh goodness, all the women named Susan I've insulted. Or, being asked if you could drink hot chocolate out of one of my coffee mugs. (seriously)
  6. Min

    Why make functional ware?

    I didn’t set out to spend a lifetime trying to make functional pots. It was all really quite by accident, started out when I took a pottery class after my youngest was born and I had postpartum depression. I had taken ceramics when I was a kid, enjoyed it and thought it would be good for me to get out of the house. The clay got under my fingernails and it’s been stuck there ever since. Perhaps if that first class had been in sculpture I might have gone that route, don’t know but it was a functional pottery class and I got hooked. I don’t think its coincidental that many potters making functional work really enjoy good food and cooking. That subculture Mea mentioned, some people get it, some don’t.
  7. If you go to Lori Martin's website she mentions she is working in lowfire. If you then go to Linda Arbuckle's blog she show some test results using Mayco Stroke and Coat. (about 1/4 way down the page) Your base glaze needs to be quite viscous so it doesn't move. You could also try contacting Lori Martin via her contact page on her site and asking her what she uses. Welcome to the forum
  8. Try glazing the inside only of the mug then when the glaze is dry glaze the outside.
  9. If you have a glaze with a high amount of uncalcined clay it is going to shrink a lot during drying. Hard to tell by the pictures but are the mugs thin walled? If so when you combine that with a glaze that contains a lot of clay you have a double risk of crawling. (If there are any cracks in the raw glaze before firing then it's pretty certain to crawl when fired.) Are your pots really dry after 24 hours? If they're still damp this is also going to compound the problem of the glaze not bonding with the pot because of being oversaturated. Other things can cause crawling also, dirty bisque from greasy hand lotion or dust or just putting the glaze on too thickly. Can you damp sponge them instead? Not a good idea to do sanding unless you have super good ventilation, or working outside, and wearing a respirator.
  10. @shonnie, can't tell what crawling you are asking about from your image. You don't mean the wide band of raw clay at the bottom of the mugs do you?
  11. Min

    Dry firing on a new kiln

    Hi Heidi and welcome to the forum. By pillars do you mean the kiln posts? If so, then it would be fine to have those in the initial firing. For brand new kilns with new elements I like what L&L kilns suggests with doing a very long slow initial firing to condition the elements.
  12. Min

    Thoughts on Pricing

    Adding a wrinkle to the conversation which would be applicable to any Canadians or non US countries thinking of selling pipes etc. to US customers. Apparently you can be banned from crossing into the US if you hold US cannabis stocks in your financial portfolio. Can be in anything from marijuana starts ups to mutual funds or even REITS if one of the properties has a dispensary in one of their properties. I would hazard a guess that making pipes and selling to the US would definitely fall into this jurisdiction. https://www.ctvnews.ca/canada/why-investing-in-pot-could-pose-problems-at-the-u-s-border-1.4011813
  13. Min

    How do I make black slip?

    @Meganthwaites, there is a thread here that discusses making black slip. Chris Campbell makes lovely work with coloured porcelain, she uses Mason Best Black stain #6600. It does contain cobalt plus some other oxides. Problem with just using iron oxide is you aren't going to get black using it alone. If you look at the ingredients used in making black stains or colourants used for making a black glaze they are combinations of oxides. Cobalt plus iron and or chrome, manganese etc. If you only want to make up a little black slip then using stain would be the way I would go, if you have a large amount to make then augmenting the stain with less expensive materials like iron might be an option. edit: like Tyler said though, using stains is considered safer for the potter than using oxides such as manganese or cobalt or chrome. (iron isn't an issue)
  14. Min

    Glaze Bilsters...

    So your clay isn't mature enough at cone 6? And you said your other glazes work on this claybody without craters etc when fired to cone 6 with a 40 minute hold right? If you come to the conclusion that what you have is a cone 8 body (approx) with the blistering glaze a cone 6 glaze then it seems the easiest thing to do would be to raise the firing temperature of the glaze rather than messing around trying to change the clay. If the clay works with your other glazes, brilliant, don't mess with it. If the clay is good at cone 8 then fine, go with that. If the blistering green glaze is the only problem then raise the firing temperature of the glaze itself by altering the recipe so it doesn't run off the pot and boil, change it into a cone 8 glaze. By the way, I think the iridescence shown in some of your pictures is another indicator of an overfired glaze.
  15. Another pair of child sized hands. (was peeling beets)
  16. Min

    Glaze Bilsters...

    @Gokul, may I ask about the ball clay(s) you are using? When I look up suppliers to the Bengaluru area of India is seems like there is ball clay available with fairly low iron content. A quick search brought up this one, Fe2O3 @ 0.58% for example.
  17. Min

    Glaze Bilsters...

    What cone are you aiming for with your glaze firing? A 40 minute soak is going to take you way past cone 6 if that is your target. For the bisque I would increase your cone to 04, vent the kiln as much as you can and bisque fire slowly.
  18. Have you tested the glazes using just one on both the inside and the outside of the pots? The glazes might be compatible with each other but not with your claybody. If the glaze(s) are low expansion and your clay isn't that could be the reason for your dunting. I would take some of the survivors and put them in the coldest part of your freezer overnight, in the morning put them in the sink and pour rapidly boiling water into the frozen pots. I think there is a good chance you will see more dunt. How did you find out that the two glazes are compatible?
  19. Trailer jack, motorcycle sprocket, gear reducer, 1/2 hp motor and scrap steel. If it was mounted to the wall it would only be 1/2 a beast. As it is now it's on a rolling stand so I can move it if necessary.
  20. Do you have access to a welder? It's not pretty but it works. Fits the pugs straight from the extruder, I use different lengths of pvc plumbing pipe for the barrel so if I just need to extrude a few things I'm not cleaning out a long barrel. Joint effort between my husband and myself, been using it for about 10 years or so.
  21. You can vent the kiln by propping the lid up a couple cm's until it gets to around 750C to vent it. It allows a clean burn off of organic materials that are within the clay and glazes. Pinholes, blisters, bloating (with dark clays especially) can be avoided to a great part by having a clean bisque firing. The main advantage of having a spyhole is to allow you to see the cones to calibrate the firing while it is going on. Problem with looking at the cone packs after firing is obviously it's too late to go back and change the firing for the load of pots you just fired. That is great you have a type S thermocouple, yes they are more accurate than the K type. If you can get the firing temp to correlate with the cones and prop the lid you could avoid drilling a hole. I'ld suggest keeping a really good log book of your firings, include time, number of shelves used, approx mass (ie loose, or densely packed kiln), temp, etc. You will likely have to adapt your firing schedule as the elements wear. Yes stainless is a hard material, if you do decide to drill a spyhole once you start drilling don't stop the drill as stainless work hardens.
  22. Just to clarify, your kiln is made from insulating fire bricks with a stainless jacket? IFB's are porous but not to the point of being able to vent a kiln. I really would drill out a spyhole. If you use just one spyhole place it about 1/2 way up the kiln, since your kiln is quite small one should be enough. For the stainless use a sharp high speed steel or carbide holesaw, once you start drilling don't stop until you hit the brick. Drill a pilot hole from the inside out to place the spyhole. Spyholes can be reamed out to a taper to fit plugs. TC's can have drift. The higher the temp the greater the drift.
  23. I needed a small knockdown tabletop shelf unit for some mugs, wanted it easy to assemble, without using hardware or tools, and inexpensive. Trolled though some designs and made this up. Made from pine boards, cost 12-. Unassembled it’s a stack 2’ X 4 3/4” so it’s nice and compact, assembled size is 15” tall X 2’ wide X 20” deep. I used it last weekend, it’s sturdy, doesn’t wobble and takes about a minute to put together. Anyhow, if anyone is looking for a simple unit that can be scaled up or down this one is pretty easy to make and assemble. Anybody else have any compact display ideas?
  24. Yeah, but by then all the materials will have changed and you would have to start all over again.
  25. Think you could have been closer to cone 9 the way the cone 7 is blistered. Any chance you have infinite switches on the kiln as well as the controller? Also wondering what cone your clay is rated to? Are you using one of those wide range claybodies that go from 6 - 10? Reason I'm asking is if your pots came out without any sign of overfiring the clay it makes me wonder if is is a broad range clay. Nope, not going hot enough. I would. Can buy or make a plug for it or attach a swinging style spyhole cover made from stoneware or stainless.

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