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Showing results for tags 'low fire'.
Found 25 results
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Hi- Any thoughts on use of stilts vs cookies for firing 06-04 glazed earthenware ? Have seen both recommended. Cookies seem a bit easier as no grinding off points, but stilts seem recommended much more often. This is my first kiln, so not sure which direction to go. As I am new at kiln work, don't want to ruin any shelves! THanks for any input. Barbara
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Hello! So, I'm planning on making two gargoyles to protect my home. Sadly, my kiln is a tired old man and only likes to fire in earthenware. Anyone here have experience with this? I was thinking a heavily grogged terracotta that is fired to ^03 might be my best option, but I'm not sure. The statues will not be glazed, as South Dakota winters are lethal to glazed ware!!- 16 replies
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I’ve been experimenting with making low-fire red clay plant pots, using a white slip and carvings for decoration. I’ve left them unglazed because I’d like them to breathe. However, I’ve found that the white slip discolors within a week or so of watering (it gets greenish brownish). I tried a commercial white underglaze instead, and it seems to have the same issue. Any thoughts on ways to get around this, other than staying away from the slips altogether? -
On a recent Clayflix tutorial by Lisa Naples she mentioned she fires her earthenware to cone 1 or 2, which reduces the water absorption rate by a huge amount and renders the clay almost vitreous. Does anyone have experience with this and, if so, what clay do you use?
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Greetings! I'm a fairly novice potter who has made figurative pottery with some functionality using Amaco Low Fire White, which fires to 04. These are mostly ring dishes and candle holders. I've recently been looking to make food safe pottery such as plates, teapots, and pie plates, but have been given conflicting reports on how to make them fully food safe. I know that low fire clay is somewhat porous, but would a good quality glaze make them 100% food safe? I also have heard that pie plates and other bakeware may be prone to thermal shock if just stuck into a hot oven, and then contradicting information that well glazed, low fire pots tend to have less of this issue than say, stoneware. I'm not sure, and would love any insight! Thank you!
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HNY everyone, I have a lovely low matt glaze, but I want to thicken it. So it gloops and drips, perhaps even foam. I've been looking everywhere for a glaze like this. I am a sculptor and I really love this Matt Wedel glaze. Any tips or recipes? Could there be an additive I can use to crystallise my glaze?
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I really need some help with the mixing of high fire glazes and medium. I have these 2 urns and my plan was to have a shiny white interior (stoneware 1200° C) interior with Amaco brush on on the outside, I've done the inside firing to 1200 with a 20min hold. My problem is that the interior has crawled badly so I thought I'd put crushed glass into it and refire, but having already fired to 1200 will the Amaco glazes actually work? TIA Andrea
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Aloha, I currently teach ceramics in a middle school and would love to know what clay body most teachers are using in their classroom. Actually, to those veteran educators working with kids what is your favorite clay? My first few years I used Soldate 60 because that is what I inherited. I enjoyed working with this clay body, but I decided to try Laguna Buff with Sand and EM-210 White since they are low fire and I have a lot of low fire glazes. My students hated the Buff with Sand because it was rough and honestly I couldn't pull a handle from a fresh bag of clay. I then decided to try a more plastic clay and smooth clay, so now I am using Laguna White EM-210. I have encountered several issues with dunting and shivering and want to get a new clay body for next year but am unsure which clay to order. Being a teacher with over 200 students I do not have time to troubleshoot firing issues and want to purchase premixed clay and glazes to ensure successful results. I don't mind troubleshooting issues at my home studio, but I want to go with the sure thing at school and not have to worry about shivering, adding feldspar to change the ph level of my clay body, or have to play around with different firing schedules only to get bad results. Thanks in advance for your support. -
Hello! I have been harvesting a beautiful blue marbled clay, processing it, and then making cups. I did a test-bisque at cone 04 which turned out great, but the low-fire glaze that I applied afterward (cone 05-06 glaze) did not absorb easily and took several hours to dry. Is it worth trying to fire it anyways? And in the future: Will I run into complications if I bisque at a lower temperature (cone 05-08?) then apply glaze and fire at 05? The glaze directions say to bisque at cone 04, but I'm assuming its not necessary if the clay I'm working with is extremely low-fire? Thanks for the help! I am a beginner ceramicist working at home with access to a community kiln. I have never worked with locally harvested clay before and its amazing but difficult to figure it all out.
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Hi everyone! I am am new to ceramics after moving to it from metal clay. Things are going well but there is one constant error. I have a small jewellery kiln and it fires to the correct temp and the ceramic and glaze is working fine APART from where the object touches the kiln shelf on a glaze fire. I make pendants and rings mostly and it is so upsetting to have the items ruined or stuck to the shelf!! I use low fire stoneware clay and low fire glazes. So my question is what do I fire my pieces on. I have seen metal kiln furniture, is that the way forward? I am hoping you can help me, if you need any more info from me let me know! Thank you! Emma xxx
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From the album: Curves and Crisp Edges
Slab built using Feeney's Red Raku clay and glazed with Mayco Elements Burnished Steel© Linda Lees
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From the album: Curves and Crisp Edges
Slab built from Feeney's Red Raku clay. Glazed with Mayco Copper Adventurine© Linda Lees
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I am looking to find a slip recipe for trailing. I need something bubbly, fluffy like a crater glaze or something like that. I'm looking for a rough concrete look with little holes... any idea or low fire recipes ?
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howdy. I have been experimenting with low fire glaze that is safe for food use with stoneware clay. I am firing bisque at cone 05 and glaze firing to cone 05. My mugs look great and then I add in hot water and they start to craze. the craze is faint but, I can see lines. Should I bisque fire to 04 and keep glaze to 05? I have an old kiln so, I don't really want to use any high fire glazes so, this works best for me. Any advice will help.
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Dear all, This is a rather odd post in that i am brand new to pottery and manage an art studio in a resort in the Maldives. I have received a kiln from China which is a front loading, electric machine with no pre programmed programmes.... I have amaco low fire clay (red and white) and am wondering what to input in my kiln for bisque firing. The clay is to be fired to cone 04 1077 degrees C, but im not sure on the ramp/timings? I'm really stuck with this now....there doesn't seem to be any clear info available to me online and the supplier sent me instructions on HOW to programme but not what to input (understandable). If anyone can give me a nice step by step explanation on what to input, temps, for how long (whole profile) I would be so grateful! Does anyone use the Amaco low fire clay? Many humble thanks in advance! Melissa -
Hi everyone, I have been trying to get a definitive answer to whether or not my low fire shino is truly food safe. Here is the recipe: Lithium carb 26 Neph sy 64 EPK 10 I know that the powdered form of lithium carbonate is considered toxic and precautions should be used in glaze preparation. However once it it fired to maturity (cone 04 for this glaze) it is converted to lithium oxide. I could me misunderstanding, but I have read that in the oxide form, it is safe. Can anyone shed any light on this for me? I love this glaze for its semi-matte texture, beautiful color development, and interesting reactions with other glazes. If it isn't food safe, I would love to know how I could alter it so that it is. Thank you in advance for your help! Sloane
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Does anyone know of any cone 1 glazes? I know Linda Arbuckle has information of them and so does Charlie Cummings. However, I'm still searching for the right recipe to be fired in a soda kiln to cone 1. Thanks,
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Dear esteemed Ceramic Artists, I am a novice potter with a history in painting. I live in Brazil where supplies are very expensive and I am operating on a budget. I have a friend visiting from the States and I would like her to bring me some glazes. My question is this: I will be using a low fire kiln and want to get a good range of glazes to make foodsafe pieces. I want to be able to mix colours and paint images with glaze -(it has been suggested I get majolica style glazes to be able to paint on the pieces and see the results). I have been trying to understand the terms and the huge variety of products out there and that brings me to you... for example, AMACO has a series of glazes called Teacher's Pallet which suggests that you could mix their red with yellow and achieve an orange. I want to be able to see what I am painting and I want the colour on the unfired piece to look the same when I fire it. I would appreciate any advice that would help me put together a "beginner's kit" that would allow me to mix and create a full spectrum of colours. What products or manufacturers could you suggest for me? Thank you VERY much for your time. -
I would like to press sand onto the surface to cone 06 clay before bisque firing. Can I create a sand-like surface this way?
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Fired Tiles, Keep Becoming Damp..
noviartteacher posted a topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
I fired some commercial bisque tiles that were painted with a low fire glaze ^05. Now strange things are happening to the tiles. Water keeps appearing on the surface and back of the fired tiles. I have used the same tiles and glaze for years and have never seen anything like this. Please help J -
Hi everyone, Mayco makes a clear "Pottery Cascade" which allows commercial glazes to melt and run together at low cone temps. I would like to create this on my own but am not sure which ingredients would produce the best result. Can anyone suggest a recipe? Thanks.
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What is your favorite clay for slab building small projects. Grog or no grog? Porcelain? Thanks! Linda
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Hello, I am curious about the incorporation of metals into ceramic sculpture for aesthetic reasons. At my university we use mostly stoneware (although we can make or buy our own clay bodies) and the ^10 is the normal firing temp although we can independently fire at lower cones. To use metals with the sculpture they must obviously be bisque fired together- as they will be apart of the clay (there will be obvious shrinkage but I plan to accommodate that) I guess my question is, if I were to use stoneware (for sculpture) and fire at a lower temp say... Bisque at 06 and fire at ^5 - ^6 up to the melting point of the metal used ... Would it make the sculpture super fragile considering the stoneware wasn't fired to it's fully matured temp... Any suggestions on a hardy low fire (^5 -6) clay body, or what metal should be used... What all metals CAN be used? I am curious about bronze (which would have to be fired at an even lower temp) or maybe just tiny scraps of steel... These metal pieces will be small decorations protruding out from the sculpture- and I'm not even sure if this is possible, I'm somewhat inexperienced, but if anyone has any info I would GREATLY appreciate it! Thank you! -June -
Hi all, I'm taking a ceramics class and our teacher provided us with ^06 clay. I didn't realize how low-fire that was until it was too late to start my project over...in fact, she had told us that it was ^6 not ^06. I'm a little concerned as I am making a teapot and don't think I will be able to glaze inside the spout, and have read that unglazed areas of low-fire clay are fairly porous and are not generally considered foodsafe. Should I be concerned that the teapot I spent hours and hours on might not be safe to actually use? Any ideas for how to properly glaze the inside of the pour spout? Thanks!
