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Rae Reich

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Everything posted by Rae Reich

  1. exploding clay tips and why

    This is hard to imagine. I don't think anyone here has ever had such a result. I wish you had pictures...
  2. Glazing tools

    Whatever you use, be prepared to learn from it. Try to keep your spirit of experimentation so that you don't expect a particular result. You will learn faster. Take notes!
  3. Be sure to ask permission to have kitchen tools, though. Clay will dull the edges of tools that need to be sharp like peelers and graters. Knives, forks and spoons should be plastic, or orphans, because if you find something you love to use, you won't want to give it back. Thrift Stores are wonderful resources!
  4. Hi, dog lover! Welcome to the world of clay! Clay tools are really basic - fingers first! When I am working with clay away from my studio I can usually scrounge up a few necessary tools nearby that work as well as commercially made ones. A strong cord or piece of fishing line is a good cut-off wire for separating workable chunks from the larger clay block and for removing your work cleanly from a board. Tie the ends to clothespin halves or popsicle sticks for handles. Narrow gauge picture hanging wire is good for this, too. Clothespins and popsicle sticks can be sharpened on the sidewalk to make useful carving tools. Outdated credit cards are perfect scrapers and shapers. They can be cut to customized shapes easily to give you interesting surfaces, like cutting cogs or pointy teeth or scallops. You can make really narrow scrapers for tight areas. Their flexibility lets you bend them as needed. I use a sharpened pencil for drawing and writing on clay. You can insert a heavy needle or skinny nail backwards into the eraser to make a needle tool for poking holes and working small areas. Bobby pins and hair pins and barrette clips can be adapted for use as wire tools to gouge out large or small bits. You posted elsewhere about exploding clay. Your experiment is interesting, but I think you'll find that explosions are uncommon in unfired clay. That problem occurs during firing with work that only seems dry but really still has moisture in it. The best explosion prevention is to pre-dry your work when it feels dry to the touch by putting it in a cold oven, turning the temp to Very Low and letting the piece remain there overnight or longer with the oven door slightly open (I stick a wooden spoon in the door to keep it open just the width of the spoon handle). Note: Never use the microwave for drying - talk about explosions! Your library and the internet are excellent resources with lots of information available. Read and watch everything you can, clay is so much fun! Rae Edit: adding a spray bottle of water, to moisten clay that is drying out, and a small piece of sponge to smooth and moisten surfaces
  5. Identifying Clay Body

    lol, again! As a beginning student assigned to do a "process piece" in which the work would demonstrate the process, I thought it would be fun to overfire a pile of extruded strands of white and red earthenware. The idea was premised on the belief that ^06 clay would surely melt together at higher temps. So my "process piece" was at least a learning experience. One wag in class brought in damp, roughly formed "turds" on a paper plate, explaining that he had fed his dog some porcelain and then followed him around to collect the "extrusions" (He later helped form the band Suburban Lawn.)
  6. Parian kiln firing question

    My first exposure to Parian was in reference to the material used for doll's heads and hands. Might there be useful information from doll making sources?
  7. Glaze issue

    Well done! Meticulous work and continued experiment.
  8. Mold making Problem

    Oh, duh! What was I thinking? Of course it wouldn't absorb water. But you could duplicate your master in plaster, just-in-case. Sorry for the brain-blank.
  9. Mold making Problem

    Would depend on complexity and thickness of casting for a peel-off one-piece. They can also be two-or-multi-part molds.
  10. Mold making Problem

    I have been learning from my 16 yr old granddaughter the modern way to make molds. With a silicone mold kit for under $50 at Amazon you can brush a 1/4-1/2" thick coat of silicone. When it's cured, but before you remove the mold you make a two-piece plaster coat about 1" thick to keep the silicone rigid when you pour into it and for storage. The silicone can be peeled from your master without damaging it. Saves a LOT of plaster weight. The products we've been using are by SmoothOn. They have many useful videos on their website. Granddaughter sculpted a wolf mask for Halloween and made the silicone/plaster mold herself following the videos. I cast it in resin for her for the mask.
  11. Getting zinged by bisque

    Magic water? To keep the amount of clay to a minimum. It's a beautiful idea!
  12. This is a better idea if you must run a chain through a bead. The roughness of even smoothest porcelain is abrading the metal from the chain and could eventually remove quite a bit of a soft material like gold. What looks like a stain is rubbed-off gold.
  13. Shipping season really?

    Thanks, @GEP and @Mark C.! Funny how a little thing you've done for years can be so useful when shared. Mea, you've made me pretty pleased to be mentioned in your blog. Your packing and description are as elegant as your pots (love that stainless steel teapot handle).
  14. Thanks, Lady! Just spent some quality time exploring your Kim Kirchman info. Seems like something similar can be done on bisque, per Preeta's video. Back to the original question, tho, for a form of tracing paper similar to graphite transfer, but with underglaze, wetting the whole transfer wouldn't work. A dry process is what is wanted.
  15. Kim K Red flower prints 007

    So it's like painting behind glass - you lay in the highlights first and work "backwards"? Still leaves room for improv. I like this very much.
  16. printing bright colors for the first time

    Breathtaking! Thanks!
  17. $15 for 6 9"x9" sheets seems expensive to this stingy potter. I would be trying to make my own by coating various papers with underglaze to see what would both hold the material and release it. First I would try regular tracing paper and then spray on hairspray as a fixative. There's an acid free paste for paper that doesn't wrinkle it called Yes! (Amazon) that might make a good medium for the underglaze. It doesn't make the paper too stiff to bend around a pot.
  18. I've never seen anything like this - is it an Italian product? What is it usually used for? I like the design.
  19. Gold Luster SilkScreen Decals Help

    Have you looked at the digitally printed offers? If they can print with 18k gold, it should look the same.
  20. Glaze issue

    I recommend that after being sure that no finger oils (which cannot be removed with just water, add dish soap which dissolves oil)) or dust remain, test the problem glazes by brushing different areas with one, two and three coats of glaze. It could just be that the application is too thick on such small pieces.
  21. Glaze issue

    Are you thinking that the glaze shrinks more than the clay?
  22. Looks like the problem is the distance from your hip to the pedal. You could build up the top surface of the pedal, similar to kids bike pedals for shorter little legs. Add layers of some gluable material until you find your sweet spot, try it for a little while before making permanent. Your setup looks heavenly! Never mind the mess - clay ain't dirt
  23. Are these ^6 wadding?

    You're going to have some uneven glaze application because of the basket construction, which could make drops of glaze flow down onto the points of the supports. Little cones made with the same clay as the baskets would have an advantage over metal points because you could grind (with a dremel ) the drip down and only reveal a little spot of matching clay. A dremel can also polish the glaze where it has been ground off. Kiln wash on their points will leave white dots on the pot bottoms from the points, maybe not a problem if your clay is white, but it can be ground off easily.
  24. Leaving glazed pieces unfired

    It's an interesting idea, to keep the oxides and colorants from contaminating your clear glaze. Let us know if that works without interfering with glaze application ( just try it on one or two). Good luck!
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