Biglou13

I followed the 10:1 rule from Olsen (firebox : flue size) on a similliar project and found I did not get enough pull with a 9 foot chimney of 81 inches in area. I came to the same conclusion that the exit flue is too small. I liked the idea of a fast fire kiln but in my case there were other issues with the depth of my firebox in relation to the heigth of the kiln.
I haven't got back to it but I'll rebuild with twice the flue size and look more closely to a ground hog deisgn with a low, wide chimney instead of the tall, narrow fast fire design.
Established kilns I've been a part of have run into heat saturation issues atfer too many hours of struggling with what amounted to overloading. I bring this up in repsonse to @Biglou13 as I'm sinscerely curious if your design has the mass to succeed as anything other than a fast fire. I don't mean this as a criticism I only mean to work out what expectations we should have from kilns with less mass.

How thick is your floor?   How tall is your chimney?  
 
I need to study post more but first idea is  taller chimney. 
 
sometimes you have to ride out the stall with more time.   

How thick is your floor?   How tall is your chimney?  
 
I need to study post more but first idea is  taller chimney. 
 
sometimes you have to ride out the stall with more time.   

How thick is your floor?   How tall is your chimney?  
 
I need to study post more but first idea is  taller chimney. 
 
sometimes you have to ride out the stall with more time.   

No strong answer for you. But I have donated my crashed / edited cone 6 fired pieces to muralist.  I was able to spot my shards that withstood a few years.  Pieces were glazed and  unglazed, all vitrified to  3% or less . 
 

My interpretation of original post is that  “one firing” means one opportunity to woodfire once.  ……. There is a lot in OP that raise a flag for me., since we don’t have enough info to better assist. Guessing at clay body,  wood fire kiln owner allowing untested clay on shelves in kiln, ….   What kind of kiln?   Solidish pieces? Organic vs inorganic?    I understand there is first time for everyone.   I would suggest to  Hands On to give us more info.   Use clay suggested by kiln owner.  Also experimenting with form bisqued.  Clarify if it is going to be once fired wood fired. Or are you pre bisquimg.   What kind of kiln? What are expected final cone/temperature……   More info please

Chicken grit is usually inorganic,    I use grit as inclusion additions to my clay.  I would sinter the grit prior to  adding to clay.  It’s longer conversation but it’s  known concept, my attempt to emulate Shigaraki clay.  This addition will not lighten the clay body for that I suggest adding sawdust to clay..  be carefull not to use oyster shell grit!!!!      
 
if you search back I have posted a recipe based on dick Lehman 12d clay, which is a take on a jack Troy recipe.   I have fired this clay from underfired to 13 ish.   If you can’t find it I’ll re post recipes here  tomorrow.  This a well tested proven recipie.   The addition of fire clay makes it even more hardy but changes characteristics.
are you saying this once fire  or will you bisquing yor work.   Be careful with any solid ish large pieces. That they absolutely dry before firing!
edit   can’t find  my old post here .
i slightly modified recipe in pictures below  i changed plasticizer and lizella instead of red art 
Modified 12 D (original)
EPK                                 36.8
Nephaline Syenite  24.5
OM4 Ball Clay          14.3
Silica                               19.1
Bentonite                       5.1
Redart                              2.5
Total102.3
variation add 36  ap green fire clay   brown  and will stand up to higher temp (ap green is no longer available) im told other fireclays will work
 

. 

Chicken grit is usually inorganic,    I use grit as inclusion additions to my clay.  I would sinter the grit prior to  adding to clay.  It’s longer conversation but it’s  known concept, my attempt to emulate Shigaraki clay.  This addition will not lighten the clay body for that I suggest adding sawdust to clay..  be carefull not to use oyster shell grit!!!!      
 
if you search back I have posted a recipe based on dick Lehman 12d clay, which is a take on a jack Troy recipe.   I have fired this clay from underfired to 13 ish.   If you can’t find it I’ll re post recipes here  tomorrow.  This a well tested proven recipie.   The addition of fire clay makes it even more hardy but changes characteristics.
are you saying this once fire  or will you bisquing yor work.   Be careful with any solid ish large pieces. That they absolutely dry before firing!
edit   can’t find  my old post here .
i slightly modified recipe in pictures below  i changed plasticizer and lizella instead of red art 
Modified 12 D (original)
EPK                                 36.8
Nephaline Syenite  24.5
OM4 Ball Clay          14.3
Silica                               19.1
Bentonite                       5.1
Redart                              2.5
Total102.3
variation add 36  ap green fire clay   brown  and will stand up to higher temp (ap green is no longer available) im told other fireclays will work
 

. 

Calligraphy style brush. And practice. 

This!   I noticed many people at the new studio I am at, many are sanding pieces with expensive diamond pads as a matter of routine.  i was taught to fix roughness early on,     sanding  finished pieces is a last effort 

This!   I noticed many people at the new studio I am at, many are sanding pieces with expensive diamond pads as a matter of routine.  i was taught to fix roughness early on,     sanding  finished pieces is a last effort 

This!   I noticed many people at the new studio I am at, many are sanding pieces with expensive diamond pads as a matter of routine.  i was taught to fix roughness early on,     sanding  finished pieces is a last effort 

This!   I noticed many people at the new studio I am at, many are sanding pieces with expensive diamond pads as a matter of routine.  i was taught to fix roughness early on,     sanding  finished pieces is a last effort 

Wet sanding is you friend.   
a drive down a dirt road with windows open, is higher risk for respiratory complications.
I spoke with a manager of a sand and porcelain mine,  no worker has come down with any respiratory complications.  And there is minimal use of personal protective equipment 

This!   I noticed many people at the new studio I am at, many are sanding pieces with expensive diamond pads as a matter of routine.  i was taught to fix roughness early on,     sanding  finished pieces is a last effort 

Wet sanding is you friend.   
a drive down a dirt road with windows open, is higher risk for respiratory complications.
I spoke with a manager of a sand and porcelain mine,  no worker has come down with any respiratory complications.  And there is minimal use of personal protective equipment 

My vote is that it will not implode

My vote is that it will not implode

Wet sanding is you friend.   
a drive down a dirt road with windows open, is higher risk for respiratory complications.
I spoke with a manager of a sand and porcelain mine,  no worker has come down with any respiratory complications.  And there is minimal use of personal protective equipment 

Thanks Neil !

Thanks Neil !

Love his work.  

CUP !

CUP !

bowl