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bciskepottery

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About bciskepottery

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  1. I use food coloring for wax -- few drops of green. Just burns out without a trace. Might be a good starting point.
  2. Dipping Bisque into Clear Glaze

    How are you prepping your bisque for glaze application? Wiping with a damp sponge? Any possibility you might have dust, oil from skin, or something else on surface of bisque?
  3. Firing An Accidentally Glazed Green Ware Pot?

    Different glaze application techniques will make a difference. When you spray, more glaze and less water goes on the ware -- so dry pieces mostly get glaze and not water. If you dip, you will have to deal with more water and will need to dip at a stage where adding that much water would not affect the ware.
  4. Is Patsy Green 2 From Britt Book Food Safe?

    Whether 1 foot x 120 feet or 15 feet x 120 feet, they are all billable hours. And the more lawyers involved, the more hours billed. (Full disclosure: my daughter is a law school graduate, I work with an agency full of lawyers, and am a consultant who bills by the hour.)
  5. Is Patsy Green 2 From Britt Book Food Safe?

    I think a main concern about leeching is that it could affect the taste or appearance of the food coming in contact with it. Also, there can be some discoloration of the surface of the ware. Hesselberth and Roy adopted limits leeching for U.S. drinking water (I think) because there are no standards (except for wares used in commercial eateries that are issued by FDA). And, if you look at limits between H & R, Britt, Tony at Digitalfire, and others, there are variances in what they recommend. H&R focused on durability, so their limits reflected that emphasis.
  6. Saving your hands.

    Needless to say, a tetanus shot (or booster) is never a bad idea for those working in studios. After the needle tool, the metal flexible ribbon of death (your shiny metal rib) is the next most dangerous item of which to be wary. (Yeah, bad pun on needless)
  7. Pkqw #24

    Week 24 Note from Pres: The questions this week are taken from an older book. The book is about electric kiln ceramics, and unless otherwise stated, assume an electric kiln when talking about firings. The main alternative to creating and reducing atmosphere in the kiln is to add reducing materials to the glaze. Several materials are available but by far the most useful and one with the author has experimented is _____________________. bone ash soda ash silicon cabide sodium silicate To fit well, both before, during and after firing, body and glaze must expand and contract at much the _______________________ and to much the same extent. same rate differing rate same hardness none of the above One method of joining together a burnt-out element. Stretch the wire and interlock; dab the join with ___________. Turn on the electricity supply , which will cause the wire to arc at the joins and fuse together. Kiln cement oil water super glue A _______________ glaze develops because the glaze contracts when cooling more than the body, this can happen with shiny or matt, colored or clear glazes. Glossy Lava Matt Crackle This weeks questions come from Electric Kiln Pottery-The Complete Guide, by Emmanuel Cooper, c. 1982, Anchor Press for B.T. Batsford Ltd. Note from Pres: A much older book that helped me years ago to explore cone 6. This was the first book I was aware of at the time that had a full chapter on Cone 6 Ceramics, and glaze recipes of which Floating Blue was on I first used. Answers: 3. Silicone Carbide-The main alternative to creating a reducing atmosphere in the kiln is to add reducing materials to the glaze. Several materials are available but by far the most useful and one with which I have experimented is silicon carbide (SiC) better known as carborundum. 1. same rate-Here the problem is to achieve a good fit between body and slip. Shrinkage has to be much the same and a good bond has to form between body and slip. 3. water-One method of joining together a burnt-out element. Stretch the wire and interlock; dab the join with water Turn on the electricity supply, which will cause the wire to arc at the joins and to fuse together 4. Crackle-The development of craze lines in the glaze which are recognized as a decorative feature are known as crackle glazes. . . .. On pots intended for functional use such a crackle creates both a poor bond between body and glaze, which makes it physically weak, and a trap which can hold food and make it unhygienic. For these reasons crackle glazes are best reserved for use on decorative pieces. A crackle develops because the glaze contracts when cooling more than the body, and this can happen with shiny or matt, colored or clear glazes.
  8. Pkqw: Week 23

    Here are the answers to the Pkqw #23 . . . Answers: 3. sodium silicate_To achieve deep surface texture without the use of additives, brush sodium silicate (a suspension agent usually used in casting slip) onto the surface of a thickly thrown cylinder. Once the clay stiffens, stretch the form from the inside to bring out surface cracks. 2. fluted, faceted-After you’ve fluted or faceted a freshly thrown form, you can stretch the curves more by continuing to throw, while pressing outward only from the inside. 1. engraving-From the mid-1700's the printmaker's technique of engraving was used to create detailed images on ceramic wares. Engraved onto a copper plate, coated with potter's ink, and printed onto a prepared tissue, the image was then gently transferred to the clay surface by pressing across the back of the tissue. Thin, clear glaze was applied over the top. While blue was the most common color produced, the work could also be brown, green or yellow depending on the temperature to which the piece was fired. 2. comb, parallel-With little more than a comb a potter from the most sophisticated – or the most primitive -culture can embellish a piece with parallel lines. If you get the chance, take a look at Karatsu wares from seventeenth-century Japan. New question to be posted tomorrow . . .
  9. New Forum

    Click on your user name Then click on "Account Settings" Then click on "Notification Settings" I cleared all defaults and clicked on "no notifications" option Then click on Save button before returning to forum. Hopefully that would do it.
  10. Nerd -- what is the magnification of your picture? Helps with context.
  11. The Vent A Kiln hood, which sits over the kiln, is designed to remove fumes, odors, and excess heat. Basically, like the hood over a range vents odors and smoke out of the kitchen. A downdraft vent that is attached to the bottom of the kiln draws oxygen from the top through the kiln, along with removing fumes, odors, and heat.
  12. New Forum

    Upper right hand side, under the blue/teal bar is a tab that reads "Unread content". Click and go. You can also go to the Activity tab, click, then select the unread content tab.
  13. Kiln Wash Ruining My Work

    Regular bisque temp for calcining should be fine. The purpose of calcining is to remove chemical water; by doing that, it will shrink less upon drying.
  14. Unless you apply alumina to the rims, they are likely to stick during a glaze firing (unlike a lower temp bisque firing). Understand the desire to maximize kiln space, but work with what you have and focus on quality, not quantity. Cost of electric firing is not that much in terms of overall price of an item. May be a few pennies more per piece now, but you'll make it up later with larger kiln. Think long term, pottery/ceramics is not for those who tend toward instant gratification. But you already knew that -- as evidenced by your journey so far and your work to achieve your own voice in glazes, etc.
  15. Kiln Wash Ruining My Work

    Ditto to Neil's comments on being careful during loading . . . I've encountered that too often at community studios where the loader was not careful. Also, make sure there is no kiln wash on the edges of your shelves that can easily chip and fall onto pottery.
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