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About bciskepottery

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    Northern Virginia

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  1. Unless you apply alumina to the rims, they are likely to stick during a glaze firing (unlike a lower temp bisque firing). Understand the desire to maximize kiln space, but work with what you have and focus on quality, not quantity. Cost of electric firing is not that much in terms of overall price of an item. May be a few pennies more per piece now, but you'll make it up later with larger kiln. Think long term, pottery/ceramics is not for those who tend toward instant gratification. But you already knew that -- as evidenced by your journey so far and your work to achieve your own voi
  2. 6 of one; half dozen of the other. Comes down to personal preference. Many community studios use 05 as it the bisque is hard enough to prevent over-absorption of glazes by beginning students who all count to 1003 (or 1005) at different paces. Not sure you'd notice a difference unless some glazes are real sensitive to thickness.
  3. Gas bubbles in the 266. The glaze is maturing and sealing the surface before the gas bubbles from the clay body are released. Most common remedy is to hold top temperature during bisque to allow more of the Sulphur and other impurities to burn out. Also, stack the 266 loose in the bisque to maximize surface area to promote burnout of impurities. Not an uncommon problem with 266 and similar clay bodies.
  4. Depending on how wet or dry you throw, you tend to lose the fine particles of clay in your slop. When recycling, you need to restore those fine particles or the clay becomes stiff/hard to throw -- potters use the term short to describe the clay. By adding your slop to the recycled clay (see Marcia's post), you restore fine particles and the clay keeps more of its plasticity. If you don't add back your slop, you need to add a fine clay to the recycle clay. Given Coleman is a bit pricey, save your slop and recycle your own . . . don't mix it with the others.
  5. http://www.potters.org/subject15435.htm http://www.biokeram.com/Application-areas/Refractory/Additive-A Seems to be used more often in brick production and extruded work . . . likely commercial extrusions of tiles, pipes, etc.
  6. I've used the Mayco SW002 clear satin matte with good results on exteriors of ikebana vases. It was applied over black underglaze and oxide stains used to highlight texture. Clearness will depend on application and thickness -- whether satin, matte, or glossy. https://maycocolors.com/index.php/mayco/all-products/color-products/color-logos/stoneware-glaze-products/stoneware/stoneware-clear-chips/sw-002-matte-clear.html
  7. http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/15022-community-challenge-7/?hl=%2Bcommunity+%2Bchallenge
  8. Off to salt kiln rebuild.

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. ChenowethArts


      Any chance we can see progress pictures along the way?

    3. bciskepottery


      Pictures are being taken; too tired at night to upload. Kiln hard bricks literally weigh a ton. Did a lot of dry fitting with arch yesterday, warm up for the real event. Challenge on this one was building kiln to fit existing chimney -- although we increase flue size to match burners. Love hydraulic jacks. On to day 3.

    4. Joseph Fireborn

      Joseph Fireborn

      I can't wait to see pictures. I also assume we get to see pictures of the first unload of actual pots?

  9. DSW -- when are you adding your art work? At leatherhard, after bisque? And, how are you supporting the plates while doing your art work? Is is possible that you could be stressing a thin plate/edge while adding your drawings and brushwork?
  10. Not little balls of "clay"; little balls of a mixture of 50% alumina hydrate and 50% EPK. For a platter, five -- one in each corner and one in the middle. Roll the wad and attach to the bottom of the pot with a bit of Elmer's glue. When attaching them, avoid touching other areas of the pot with the hands/fingers used to make/attach the wad as any transfer of the alumina could result in a white spot where you touched. I usually keep a damp hand-towel nearby and wipe my hands between placing the wads on the pot and then putting the pot on a kiln shelf. Left over wadding can be kept in an ai
  11. Helping a fellow potter (in return for free firing) -- kiln floor and bag wall, cut posts from brick, hung new lights. Salt fire next weekend.

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. glazenerd
    3. Mark C.

      Mark C.

      Wet diamond saw work?

    4. bciskepottery


      Mark -- wet diamond saw, yeah. Big bricks into little bricks.

  12. Gallup, New Mexico. Company went out of business in the 1980s.
  13. Hmmmm . . . kiln log said last firing was in September 2015. How time flies.

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. bciskepottery


      More like clay inaction. Have a major salt firing in April (1/3 of kiln); making wares like bat out of hell.

    3. Mark C.

      Mark C.

      Welcome to the fold

    4. Joseph Fireborn

      Joseph Fireborn

      One day I want to make some pots for a wood or salt firing. I really need to connect with other potter's in GA. I would love to have some wood fired pots in my house.

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