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dazzlepottery

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About dazzlepottery

  • Birthday 10/27/1990

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    http://www.danabechert.com

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    Lancaster, PA

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  1. It’s possible, I do think that may be the issue with some of the marks here. Some are obviously fingerprints. the ones that are a mystery seem to have come from areas that rapidly dried during a draft when they were wet.
  2. I’m wiping the rims of pieces after glazing the inside with clear. So the water bucket gets some clear glaze in it. I use our tap water in Pennsylvania
  3. Actually this last time for most of these teal pieces I made the slip from clay for the first time. Including that low bowl with the haze. I didn’t have enough of my throwing water to mix up the teal. The two vases with the blotches were made the old way ( letting the solids settle and just pouring off the suspended liquid) but the rest were made with crushed clay scraps. It’s not just a random bucket of wash water, I am careful to only use water from a pure porcelain throwing session, pour into another bucket to settle further. Then reduce what stays suspended. Just comparing the two slips on these pieces, I prefer my method, because the unglazed surface has more sheen to it. The clay mixed slip is rough and flat. like I said I’ve made thousands of pots this way with no issue so I don’t think that’s the problem.
  4. Yes I make my own slip, out of suspended clay from my throwing water, reduced and mason stains. The pots are leather hard when I apply slip, I let it set up between coats so it doesn’t remove the last layer. i bisque to cone 06. the water often has a layer of glaze in the bottom after wiping the bisque. Perhaps I just need to change water more often. the coats of slip are very even, as are the walls and surface of the pots. I’ve been making pots this way for almost 10 years, thousands so far, and the problem has only just begun to present itself. it’s the mystery of the patches on the vases that I’m most concerned with. I can come up with at least some kind of explanation for the streaks from wiping. Still don’t get why a dry patch would still look light after firing.
  5. It has been happening the last few rounds of firings. Not sure if it Corresponds to a new batch of clay, it’s possible. This is standards 365 English cone 6porcelain. I’ve been using this claybody for many years. the worst time was once when I tried rinsing bisqued pieces. I ran the water from the rim to the base and let dry overnight. The pieces weren’t glazed on the outside. The bottom of those pieces were horribly streaked. also lately when I’m cleaning up clear glaze on the outside of pieces with a wet sponge, those areas tend to have sponge mark streaking. I assumed that was from leaving a residue of glaze that didn’t have enough components to flux. I don’t know much about glaze chemistry but that was my guess. However I’ve never noticed this before and in the last firing I tried hard to use fresh water and wiped many times and still had issues. Since this thread, I found a photo of the vases before they were bisqued. The irregular Light blotches were present then. I remember areas of the clay drying much more quickly than others. It’s very possible there were drafts when they were drying and these were exposed areas from holes in my plastic, but I’ve not had pieces dry this dramatically in random areas before. See attached, area around dogs leg. I can’t figure out why quickly drying an area would affect it after it’s been fired either.
  6. Wow I think you may be on to something. I used to do a 30 minute soak in all my glaze firings. I don’t remember when I heard that would be a good idea but someone scolded me once saying I’m probably over firing. So I stopped. It seems that loosely corresponds to the time this issue started. It may be that was what I needed to vitrify my pieces. I always pack very densely. And i never use witness cones since I switched to a computer kiln. Elements are getting pretty old so it’s very possible it’s not getting quite up to temperature. the slip I use is more like a terra sig. does anyone know if that would have a higher firing temp? would be wonderful if a simple refire and soak could solve the issue.
  7. Thanks for the replies. I may try a gloss medium (on a less important piece first). I’m afraid to try to glaze and refire though I may try that too. still a mystery to me why especially the random splotches would occur. The walls are even thickness and I don’t trim the large vases at all. Almost seems like an issue during firing. It’s only been happening for the last 6 mos or so and nothing in my process or slip mixing has changed.
  8. Hi there Ive been having an issue with some areas of my slip coated pieces getting lighter and hazy when fired. I apply slip with the piece rotating on the wheel using a wide brush and several coats. This is what’s happening on the low bowl shape. The bottom gets kind of lighter hazy scuffed . At first I thought it was from rinsing a bisqued piece and perhaps dust got on the bottom so I never rinsed again but it’s still happening. Any thoughts? this last firing I have this new lighter area issue on the larger vases. I really don’t know what that could be from. A few guesses are areas that dried more quickly, or areas that got wet when they were unfired. Also could be an issue with the clay body? they didn’t look lighter until they were glaze fired to cone 6. The stakes are kind of high for these, they’re due soon for a big client and I don’t have time to remake them. I don’t normally glaze the outside of these illustrated pieces but I think that would solve the issue. Any tips for clear glazing a piece that’s already been fired to temperature? I don’t have a sprayer but that seems like it may be best? ive noticed that if I have oil on my hands and I wipe the splotches they darken some. I know it’s very unconventional but has anyone oiled unglazed ceramics? They’re for display only and won’t be used. sorry the slides are oriented wrong, couldn’t get them flipped on my phone.
  9. To clarify, I don't think the breaker was the issue at first. My husband wired this for me, I don't know exactly what he had to change to solve this issue, part of the wire needed to hook into the bottom of the breaker rather than to top from what it looked like? Seems it was getting just enough power to display the temperature but not enough to actually start the firing. I had been firing this kiln at our last house for the past six years on a 50 breaker (not knowing it was undersized) so I went ahead and fired the bisque with the undersized breaker-which was new (I know, lazy and dangerous, our local hardware store was out of 60s and I'm on a very tight firing schedule because I have a big show next week). It did flip the breaker after a few hours at around 600*. So the next day I located the 60 breakers and we changed them out and that seemed to do the trick.
  10. Thanks everyone! At first we had a mix up with the wiring. Also changed out the breakers to 60 and that did the trick. First bisque successfully completed in the new studio!
  11. Hi, I'm having an issue with my Skutt 1227 kiln. I've had the kiln for years, haven't had many issues. Recently I moved and had my new studio wired to work the kiln. We added a 50amp breaker, (kiln requires 49). When we finished, the kiln flashed with its temperature like always, indicating it has power. Today I loaded a bisque firing, and went to start it. Immediately when the kiln tried to make the first heating, error code ErrP showed up and the display flashed between the temperature and the error code. According to Skutt ErrP means: A continuous Err P indicates a short term power outage has occurred and the kiln has continued with the program. (caused by ) Power Outage. Power Surge. Wondering if anyone has experience with this error and any advice on how to begin to troubleshoot it.
  12. Thanks everybody. I will try a bisque soak. The ones that became more bloated were usually stacked deeply in the bisque firing, which confused me because some things came out fine and some were horribly bloated! Thanks again for the info.
  13. I have been having a strange issue with my Cone 6 Black Stoneware Clay from Standard (266). It gets these big cracking bubbles upon glaze firing. I bought this clay to marble with Porcelain (Standard 365) because it had a similar shrink rate. The marbled pieces came out SUPER bubbly, really horrible. I thought it was just poor clay preparation on my part because of the mixing of the two. However it has been happening with pots I make solely out of the Black Stoneware. I prepare this clay the same way I do all my other clay bodies and never really have this issue otherwise. Has anyone else had this problem with this clay? Any advice?
  14. Thank you all for your responses! I only wish I had joined here earlier and known all along that I didn't need to be propping because it was a lot of trouble. ( I usually fire overnight, so I'd have to wake up to close it). I like the idea of switching my broken lid with my floor piece. what is the best way to attach a new handle to the kiln brick with the metal band?
  15. When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has badly cracked on both the inside and outside, necessitating repair with kiln cement. I have a large electric Skutt Kiln (I think it's the 1227). Even with my repair, it is all fractured and occasionally falls onto the pots below. The metal handle is also badly rusted and corroded, an issue I didn't notice when I bought this kiln used a couple years ago. I notice when I close the lid on an 1000F kiln it makes a soft settling crackling noise. I am curious if the cracking lid is from thermal shock when it goes from hot room temp to 1000F. Because of this, i wonder if it's better not to close it so late (and hot) in the firing. Perhaps it's just time for an envirovent. Is it normal for a lid to start to deteriorate like this? The newer versions of my kiln are made with the hydraulic lid lifter, which I assume lifts it more evenly, without the torque from supporting it on just one part. Please let me know if anyone else has had this cracking lid issue. -Dana
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