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Bette

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    35
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About Bette

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/27/1951

Profile Information

  • Location
    Morgan Hill, California
  • Interests
    Introduced to pottery in my 50's at a community college class, and knew I wanted to make this part of my future. Dabbled for some years as my career (healthcare org management & training) allowed. At 60, semi retired, I was thrilled to set up a pottery studio in my home. I am mostly throwing functional ware, building skill, experimenting, learning a lot, dreaming of possibilities down the road.
    My pottery is part time. Life is full with family (3 adult sons+), part time work, community, gardening, reading, and my other avocation which is aviation (I have an airplane that I use for business and pleasure).
    I would like to be more connected to a potters community and intend to make more time for that some how.
  1. Hello and thank you for all the knowledge sharing here, which has helped me so much. What differences should I expect in specific gravity and firing results with different types of water for mixing up a glaze dry mix? My options are distilled water, very hard tap water, or softened water (a salt process).
  2. I use IMCO's Navajo Wheel, a ^6 dark red clay. Some of the best commercial glazes that I have found retain strong color (although generally darker of course than shown in catalogues): Georgie's: Ohata, Nassau Blue Clayscapes: Coastal Blue, Cream Coyote: Shino, Oatmeal, Espresso, Sedona Sunset Laguna: Almond Spice Amoco: Deep Firebrick, Deep Olive Speckle I too wish commercial glaze makers would show their glazes on dark red clay as well as the usual whitish clay. Clayscapes does this on their website and I really appreciate it! Georgies has a board of test tile
  3. Thanks for this tip! Do you do anything special to prepare a Mack brush before you use it? I'm reading about trimming and oiling for other applications, but I don't see guidance about their use with pottery underglaze.
  4. On occasions when I've had the dreaded pinging and crazing - not often, and not recently - I don't know whether it had anything to do with temperature shock. I now regularly bisque fire slowly and I have learned more about which of my clays/glazes fit together without crazing, and I suspect that has led to better outcomes rather than temp. Still, I now also wait to unload til max 150F to be safe. If concerned about crazing and cracking, the hugely variable experience reported here is a great reminder that more variables are at work than just the unloading temperature! As for unloadin
  5. I have a nail problem that I have not heard other potters discuss: my nails easily separate from the beds, not entirely, but maybe half the length. I have learned this is a condition called onycholysis. Even with nails clipped very short, stuff like clay (or garden dirt, or food) can easily get stuck in there and make it worse. I wish there was a better solution, but the only way to manage this is to wear gloves or finger cots. Tried throwing with taped fingers, tried painting finger tips with liquid bandage products, but these don't work for me. So I keep a box of tight fitting nitrile gloves
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