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bciskepottery

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About bciskepottery

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    bciske.pottery@gmail.com

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  1. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    I am not a "big" thrower; on those really rare occasions when I do make a big item, I take the Tony Clennell approach and throw in sections . . . 8 to 12 lbs. or so. At those weights, torque is no problem. Coning, centering, and throwing 25 lbs. or so takes strength I just don't have at my age. I had an instructor who would occasionally throw a demo with 25 lbs. -- and he would collapse the ware at the end of class.
  2. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    I have a Shimpo Whisper VL. Love it. Learned on Brents in a community studio that also had some old Shimpos and found the Shimpo foot pedal more responsive. Direct drive means fewer moving parts to replace down the road. Had I not gotten the Shimpo, I would have gone with either the Thomas Stuart (pre-bought out by Skutt) or the Bailey Pro.
  3. If you are up for testing, consider letting the half pint dry out into powder, then reconstitute with water (no gum). Then treat as a dipping glaze, like the undercoat of obsidian.
  4. Can you also get the second glaze in powder form to mix? That avoids the whole no-gum/gum situation.
  5. colouring large batches of porcelain

    One thing to check out is if you can get your clay dry, not already mixed. That eliminates the need to dry it out to get a powdered form. Many clay manufacturers sell their clay dry.
  6. Kiln Install on Deck

    Durock cement board is described as mold and water resistant . . . and there's a difference between water resistant and water-proof. Cement board is generally used as a backing, not an exposed surface.
  7. Kiln Install on Deck

    Looks like we need to step back and take a deep breath . . . It is okay to respectfully disagree or challenge on content, but let's avoid making comments that characterize members personally. That is not what the Forum is about. And, I'm not singling out this thread . . . it has also occurred in some other recent ones. We all bring different strengths -- whether experience, education, or whatever -- to the discussions and all of our members, whether professionals, students, or newbies, benefit from those strengths. Sputty's comment is accurate regarding the auto-ignition point of wood. And the suggestion of a layer of bricks with aluminum foil is a valid one -- it would satisfy the manufacturer's suggestions listed by Neil. One clarification I'd like to see is whether Sputty's kiln is sitting directly on the OSB floor or if there is a layer of bricks/stand that separates the kiln floor from the OSB floor. One clarification I'd like to see is whether the Milwaukee fire cited by Neil involved a kiln directly on the floor or if it was raised above the wood floor with a stand or layers of brick or other materials.
  8. I use food coloring for wax -- few drops of green. Just burns out without a trace. Might be a good starting point.
  9. Dipping Bisque into Clear Glaze

    How are you prepping your bisque for glaze application? Wiping with a damp sponge? Any possibility you might have dust, oil from skin, or something else on surface of bisque?
  10. Firing An Accidentally Glazed Green Ware Pot?

    Different glaze application techniques will make a difference. When you spray, more glaze and less water goes on the ware -- so dry pieces mostly get glaze and not water. If you dip, you will have to deal with more water and will need to dip at a stage where adding that much water would not affect the ware.
  11. Is Patsy Green 2 From Britt Book Food Safe?

    Whether 1 foot x 120 feet or 15 feet x 120 feet, they are all billable hours. And the more lawyers involved, the more hours billed. (Full disclosure: my daughter is a law school graduate, I work with an agency full of lawyers, and am a consultant who bills by the hour.)
  12. Is Patsy Green 2 From Britt Book Food Safe?

    I think a main concern about leeching is that it could affect the taste or appearance of the food coming in contact with it. Also, there can be some discoloration of the surface of the ware. Hesselberth and Roy adopted limits leeching for U.S. drinking water (I think) because there are no standards (except for wares used in commercial eateries that are issued by FDA). And, if you look at limits between H & R, Britt, Tony at Digitalfire, and others, there are variances in what they recommend. H&R focused on durability, so their limits reflected that emphasis.
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