docweathers Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 When you glaze fire a casserole or other lid on its associated pot, there's always the risk of glaze running and welding the lid to the pot. Has anyone ever tried putting a little kiln wash on the contact area between the lid and pot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Larry I Always dip my sponge into wax then into alumina Hydrate when waxing lidded forms otherwise they will stick especially porcelain. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Miller Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I do something similar--I've got alumina hydrate mixed in a jar of wax resist. Maybe like a teaspoon-tablespoon per pint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I add alumni Hydrate to my liquid wax on lid flanges and lips especially for porcelain. I use it on porcelain feet too. Porcelain can fuse easily. the alumina washes off after the firing.I use about 2 tsp in a pint of wax...about the as same as Tyler. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 If you add alumuna hydrate to liquid wax, also add a couple drops of food coloring so you can tell that wax container from your regular wax container. For my regular wax, I add a couple drops of green food color -- helps show the wax on white clay bodies. For the alumuna/wax mix, add a couple drops of another color so you don't confuse the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colby Charpentier Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I do an alumina paste of alumina and a slight bit of water. I don't have an issue with glaze runs though, so in your case, you'd probably want a kiln wash (like you asked about) as opposed to an alumina wax or paste. The additional clay in the wash will provide a decent barrier if thick enough, but grinding will definitely be required. Also note that with kiln wash, the removal (sanding/grinding) will be a bit more difficult than with alumina alone. It's best to test out both options and decide which you find most viable. Another quick note, the advantage of the paste over the wax is that you can control application thickness in a greater range with the paste as opposed to the wax. The advantage of the wax over the paste is conserving the moderately expensive alumina and only using a small coating (better where glaze won't be an issue). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Those are some good ideas. It's reassuring to have a consensus on a solution. I need to get myself some alumina hydrate. At this point, I'm not really having any problems with sticking, but I'm experimenting with a lot of new glazes and I really don't know how runny some of them will be. I'm just trying to head off a problem before it becomes a problem. Thanks for all of the suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 SO if there are runny glazes, wouldn't the wax burn off way before the glaze run occurs and so there would till be a prob.?? Even with Alumina H would there not still be a prob. I'd be really testing the glazes prior to applying to casseroles and lids. Too much work to stuff up with a runny glaze.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 + 1 what Babs said ...Test first! No mentioned kiln paper.... The only decent use of this product in ceramics...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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