Seeking advice on first kiln (kiln size / sectional design / local brands?)

[Picassowhat]

Thanks Peter.

Not sure on the breaker size per se but I did discuss the two options with our electrician and, having reviewed the specs, he advised that both would work on our 100 amp panel. He actually installed the panel a few years back (we live in an old house and, previously, had a fuse panel).

As noted previously, my own inclination is / was to go with the 2218D, largely because of the lower amperage, but our electrician seems to think we would be fine with either option.

Wondering whether, if we choose the 2218D, we may regret not having that additional bit of space (e.g. a couple additional inches or so of space per shelf for a 2 shelf set up essentially splitting the internal chamber in half).

I may well be overthinking this but thought I would see if others with more practical experience (as kiln users and / or sellers) might have thoughts.

[oldlady]

i was faced with the same situation once. 

 i realize that 100 amps today is nowhere near what the usual household uses.   your 100 amps were installed before anyone had a hair dryer, air fryer,  tv and the enormous choices for computer use.  the usual size breaker box installed in 2024 for new houses is much more than the 100 amps installed when your house was built.  call a large builder and ask what they normally install. 

 your guide to accurate info is what your kiln manufacturer tells you.   your insurance policy may not work if you do something different.   you may be best friends with your electrician but his advice is faulty.  a manufacturer does not want your house to burn.

(you should upgrade that box even if you do not install a kiln.  shop a few other electricians for the price just like you would do with any long term purchase.)

now.   the heat used by a kiln is not a constant temperature.   the cone you decided is right for your clay and glaze is reached after a number of hours at much lower temps.   once it goes to " high", (the manual switch on older kilns), it is only going to run for a few more hours until  the kiln turns off.    the cone number includes time as well as temperature to reach that point.

the cost of a single firing is slight.   at your stage, firing will not happen weekly or even monthly.    if you have the money to buy that kiln, you can afford to fire it without blinking.   trust the manufacturers suggestions and use their pre-programmed firing schedule.   there is no reason to decide you know more than that company and want to pick your own.

 

Edited August 28 by oldlady
correct

[Hulk]

My guess, less height would "bite back" on cases where you have tall/taller wares for two levels, or where you would/could add a third level for plates or lids, or...

The larger one draws thirteen more amps, hmm.
Will you wire for 60 amps (or more)?

The other factor that (still) comes to mind, what's a good "batch" size to make, load and bisque? ...and then glaze and fire?

[Picassowhat]

Hi everyone.

I thought I would post a quick follow-up on my statement above that I am "not sure on the breaker size per se." That was me simply struggling to recall my discussion with my electrician a few weeks back. Having now checked my notes from that discussion, I wanted to clarify that the electrician did reference specific breaker sizes for the two kilns (60 amp breaker for the 2322D (48 amps) and 50 amp breaker for the 2318D (35 amps)), which align with the Cone Art direction. His assessment that both kiln sizes would work in our house was based, at least in part, on a review of our existing panel / electricity use, including the fact that we have a gas powered boiler (for our heat and hot water), clothes dryer and oven range. 

I was of course hugely relieved, since I had assumed that installing a kiln would require us to jump to a 200 amp panel, which we are not prepared to do, at least at stage in our pottery journey.

Edited August 29 by Picassowhat

[Min]

I've never heard someone say they regretted getting a larger kiln, I have heard many people say they have outgrown their smaller kiln.

[LeeU]

My kiln is on the enclosed back porch of my mobile home. It's a 23" wide 18" high  L&L EZ and I love it. The width is most essential & the height is more than sufficient. I'd even have a hard time if I had to stretch down deeper to load. More important, had I gone any higher I would end up having a hard time filling a larger kiln (I'm not a  production potter) which would then delayg anything I might have a deadline for, or, worse, risking a poor fire if the kiln is not fully packed. 

My kiln is set on Hardi Backer board, which was recommended by folks here & which I'd recommend.

Also, my 2-cents worth is when you can afford it, buy lightweight shelves, like Advancers or Thermalite.  Worth every penny and saves the back & wrists, eliminates strain on lifting/placing & you don't need kiln wash. 

 

 

[Picassowhat]

Thanks for the replies - much appreciated! I feel lucky to have access to this community of experts / enthusiasts. Hope everyone is enjoying their weekend.

[Denice]

One last thing use a backer board that is concrete,  Hardy Backer first line was made of pressed paper.  I understand they have some  made with concrete now..   I have  concrete backer on the walls of my kiln room.   My kiln room is in the garage but backs up to a wall in the house.   It isn't necessary but this is the first time I have ever had a kiln that close to our living quarters,  most of them have been in a garage or basement.   If you have a concrete floor and your kiln on a stand you won't need the backer board.    Denice

[Picassowhat]

Thanks Denice.

Pardon my ignorance but by concrete "backer board" do you mean some sort of concrete base on which the kiln sits? We have a tiled floor in our basement and I was thinking of buying some concrete pavers to place on the tiles where the kiln will be located. Is that what you are referring to?

Edited September 2 by Picassowhat

[neilestrick]

4 hours ago, Picassowhat said:

Thanks Denice.

Pardon my ignorance but by concrete "backer board" do you mean some sort of concrete base on which the kiln sits? We have a tiled floor in our basement and I was thinking of buying some concrete pavers to place on the tiles where the kiln will be located. Is that what you are referring to?

A tiled floor is fine. No need to replace it. She's referring to cement backer board that is normally installed under tile.

[Mark C.]

I started with a small 100 amp servive in 73 and outgrew it and by the early 80s upgraded to 200 amps. Electric kilns at 110 v will cost a lot to fire to cone 6. Your power will have to be cheap when firing and you need to not have lots running at same time.These days I would do 300 amps. I have filled up my 200 amps with my pottery stuff and mini splits and general stuff-,Always best tio have extra room .I should say I'm more a commercial user than a standard homeowner user.

Edited September 2 by Mark C.

[Picassowhat]

Thanks Neil - this is helpful. I wasn't thinking of replacing / reworking the floor. Just perhaps putting down some concrete pavers over the tiles, just for a bit more protection. Assume I can get something cheap at Home Depot. 

In terms of electricity usage, we would attempt to run as few electrical appliances as reasonably possible while firing the kiln. Even though our electrician seems to think that either kiln option would work fine with our existing 100 amp service, I had been leaning toward the 2318D (35 amps) over the 2322D (48 amps) Cone Art because of the lower amperage. I am far from an electrical expert and, perhaps, the 13 additional amps required by the 2322D are wholly negligible but, to be safe, I have been thinking that it might be more prudent to opt for the lower amp (2318D) kiln option.  

Edited September 3 by Picassowhat