MFP Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 I have a customer who wants two inch vertical stripes on the pot in black and grey. I am going to try painter's sharp edge tape. Anyone have any other suggestions? I am using a black celadon and Dimo's Dark Grey. Any suggestions would be most appreciated!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 (edited) I have used it for flat surfaces, I spray my glazes though and when removing I pull back the tape at an angle upon itself so it cuts a clean line. For very sharp lines or complicated shapes, pin stripe masking tape then adjacent area masked with anything. Again spraying this makes for an easy task and proper removal makes for very sharp lines. Just an idea For adjacent alternating stripes, I would likely mask and spray one glaze, remove the mask and paint over the glaze carefully with latex (gonna have to hand paint something), spray the adjacent color glaze infill. Bisque fire the latex off and top the entire vase with a tested suitable companion clear glaze. Edited June 28, 2023 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFP Posted June 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 Thank you Bill. I don't have any spray abilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 (edited) Brushed underglaze and brushed glaze using tape mask Transparent red glaze under transparent blue glaze, left. Royal Blue Speedball under transparent red glaze, right. Pulling the tape where the tape's edge makes a clean cut, as Bill mentioned, helps, also, peeling the tape when the brushed material still has some moisture in it (little bit!) can help, in case the build up is prone to cracking at all. Also much less dust when there's still some moisture in there... Here, the tape and brushed underglaze was done after bisque fire. It helps to have a clean surface - no dust - and smooth is better; burnished clay can make for a clean line. Put the tape down and press the edge firmly - lock it down with your fingernail*. This was cut strips of plain masking tape (decent tape, not bargain material - 3M masking tape). Waiting for the stenciled brushed on part to fully dry before glazing makes for a fuller coating. The liner glaze was poured in, poured out. The outside glazes were dipped. I get very little "bleeding" under the tape's edge. If any, I re-cut the edge with a razor knife and then scrape away the bled under part. I'm getting a smooth all melted together finish with this type of taped off and brushed decoration. Where spraying is nice - the material hardly ever (ever!) runs under the tape. Also, it can be easy to get a nice smooth even coat. "Can be" as there's technique involved... Some underglazes will move/drift/blur with some glazes - test! The liner glaze transition was done by Tony Hansen's method (how to liner glaze a mug). Note the red edge is fuzzier than the blue. It does that. *If you've fingernail to spare, else the smooth rounded part of a loop tool, edge of a rib, edge of a confectioner's spatula... Edited June 28, 2023 by Hulk wait for drying! Pres, Min, Rae Reich and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 Depending on how one's wax resist behaves, try brushing on wax resist after the stenciled material has dried some, afore pulling the tape, voilà! ...in the case one doesn't want the next layer to cover the pattern. Rae Reich, PeterH and Bill Kielb 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 Re wax resist, the type you use overtop of another glaze makes a big difference in how it behaves. Both oil based and water based wax resist will work but the water based one is much more time and moisture sensitive than the oil based one. If you use a water based wax resist overtop of glaze it can curl up and loosen it's hold on the base glaze. The longer you leave it before glazing over the worse it is. With wax based resist this issue is avoided. Some resist labels don't tell you if they are oil based or not though, you can tell by how the resist washes out of brushes. If the brushes stay a bit gummy when washed with hot water then it's oil based. If the brushes easily wash clean then it's water based. Hulk, Rae Reich, dhPotter and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFP Posted June 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 Thank you both for your advice. I appreciate it. For some reason I am having trouble responding to the posts. Hulk-- the tip about not letting it get too dry makes a lot of sense.y studio is like a sardine can with the sardines in it -- so no room for spraying. Thanks again Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.