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Vertical stripes


MFP

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I have a customer who wants two inch vertical stripes on the pot in black and grey. I am going to try painter's sharp edge tape. Anyone have any other suggestions? I am using a black celadon and Dimo's Dark Grey. Any suggestions would be most appreciated!!

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I have used it for flat surfaces, I spray my glazes though and when removing I pull back the tape at an angle upon itself so it cuts a clean line. For very sharp lines or complicated shapes, pin stripe masking tape then adjacent area masked with anything. Again spraying this makes for an easy task and proper removal makes for very sharp lines.

Just an idea
For adjacent alternating stripes, I would likely mask and spray one glaze, remove the mask and paint over the glaze carefully with latex (gonna have to hand paint something), spray the adjacent color glaze infill. Bisque fire the latex off and top the entire vase with a  tested suitable companion clear glaze.

Edited by Bill Kielb
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Brushed underglaze and brushed glaze using tape mask
taped.jpg.8283a9b942f0dae89b52c8c56c6ededf.jpg

Transparent red glaze under transparent blue glaze, left.
Royal Blue Speedball under transparent red glaze, right.
Pulling the tape where the tape's edge makes a clean cut, as Bill mentioned, helps, also, peeling the tape when the brushed material still has some moisture in it (little bit!) can help, in case the build up is prone to cracking at all. Also much less dust when there's still some moisture in there...

Here, the tape and brushed underglaze was done after bisque fire.
It helps to have a clean surface - no dust - and smooth is better; burnished clay can make for a clean line.
Put the tape down and press the edge firmly - lock it down with your fingernail*.
This was cut strips of plain masking tape (decent tape, not bargain material - 3M masking tape).
Waiting for the stenciled brushed on part to fully dry before glazing makes for a fuller coating.
The liner glaze was poured in, poured out.
The outside glazes were dipped.
I get very little "bleeding" under the tape's edge. If any, I re-cut the edge with a razor knife and then scrape away the bled under part.
I'm getting a smooth all melted together finish with this type of taped off and brushed decoration.

Where spraying is nice - the material hardly ever (ever!) runs under the tape.
Also, it can be easy to get a nice smooth even coat.
"Can be" as there's technique involved...

Some underglazes will move/drift/blur with some glazes - test!

The liner glaze transition was done by Tony Hansen's method (how to liner glaze a mug).
Note the red edge is fuzzier than the blue. It does that.
 

*If you've fingernail to spare, else the smooth rounded part of a loop tool, edge of a rib, edge of a confectioner's spatula...

Edited by Hulk
wait for drying!
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Re wax resist, the type you use overtop of another glaze makes a big difference in how it behaves.

Both oil based and water based wax resist will work but the water based one is much more time and moisture sensitive than the oil based one. If you use a water based wax resist overtop of glaze it can curl up and loosen it's hold on the base glaze. The longer you leave it before glazing over the worse it is.

With wax based resist this issue is avoided.

Some resist labels don't tell you if they are oil based or not though, you can tell by how the resist washes out of brushes. If the brushes stay a bit gummy when washed with hot water then it's oil based. If the brushes easily wash clean then it's water based.

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Thank you both for your advice. I appreciate it. For some reason I am having trouble responding to the posts. Hulk-- the tip about not letting it get too dry makes a lot of sense.y studio is like a sardine can with the sardines in it -- so no room for spraying. Thanks again 

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