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MFP

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    Coeur d'Alene, ID

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  1. I have been working my way towards finally firing my Olympic 2831 gas kiln (propane). I had the pleasure today of meeting Jill Smith in Spokane, WA, who answered my nagging question of---how do you keep the gas from just whooshing up and out of the hole in the top? In addition to being on her third kiln of this model, she had the original manual which clearly states that you must put a 12 inch round shelf exactly 1.5 inches under the vent hole....and also after the first ring, put the shelves against the wall. I should note that both she and I have the original 6 burner configuration. However, I see no reason this would not be as effective with the new 4 burner system, Answered my questions! Hope it answers some of yours!
  2. Thanks Bill...almost have my gas kiln ready to go. Now I have to throw things to fill it up!
  3. You have to use special talc with this recipe that has been calcined?
  4. I saw that cone 10 R recipe on glazy....thanks for verifying it. I have not had good experiences with glazy recipes. I was able to track down all my other glazes.....a person who was going to school just as I was quitting and Kingman was going away had all of them except this one. I was lucky!
  5. Thank you Neil, I would appreciate the recipes. My former recipe had a lot of bone ash and more iron. I still have about a pint of it. I was thinking of sending it to Tony Hansen to analyze.
  6. Thank you! By propane dealer, I assume you mean the main propane provider for the area? We only have one! I will check it out. Thank you very much!
  7. I have been hunting for my previous cone 10 Ohata Red glaze recipe adjusted for new feldspars. I have found the following recipe which appears correct minus the gerstly borate and lithium carbonate. I am asking if I remove those fluxes if this will be a cone 10 glaze please? erial Amount Custer Feldspar 52.00 Bone Ash 14.00 Silica 12.00 Dolomite 8.00 EP Kaolin 6.10 Gerstley Borate 4.00 Lithium Carbonate 4.00 Total base recipe 100.10 Red Iron Oxide 10.00 Total
  8. Hi everyone! I have finally gone through the firing ring for my old Olympic 2831 gas kiln which is set up for propane. The instructions in the manual are very vague because the assumption is that one is going to hire a plumber to connect it to one of those big tanks next to your house. In the past I have seen folks on here who are using propane tanks instead, I know that the pressure has to be 9 water column inches and there are adjustable regulators. What I can't figure out is how to transition to a propane hose from the one inch black pipe and what diameter hose to use to get enough gas to the kiln. This is the older model with the 6 burners and is supposed at max operation to deliver 270K BTU per hour. I will be using a 100 pound tank but I have seen folks on here using the regular 20 pound tanks. Any information would be most appreciated!! Marie
  9. Replaced the switch and the problem persisted. Fixed it by gluing one inch of refractory blanket to the outside of the kiln bottom. I also have a firing schedule where the bottom is always turned up more than the middle. I also put a final shelf between the last pots and the lid. I end with the bottom of. High, the middle on 5.5 and the top on 6. Cone 6 everywhere now!
  10. I fixed this same problem by doing three things: 1. I glued one inch of refractory blanket to the outside of the bottom of the kiln. 2. I always put a shelf over the last shelf under the lid. 3. I have a firing schedule where the middle is never turned up onn high. I finish with the bottom on high xz the middle on 5.5 and the top on 6. If anything the top got a bit hot. Hope this helps
  11. Neil...do you know anything about the big Olympic gas kilns? Sarah Perez is always after me to get my huge gas kiln operating....but said that my burners might need to be "braised and redrilled". I have no blasted idea what that means. The kiln has never been fired. I did anticipate lots of quality time with the burners and WD40 to get the ports open. The burners I had before were home made. I don't know anything about manufactured burners. These burners were from the original company whose factory burned down.
  12. Thank you, Hulk and Neil. The switch I received is white and the shaft does have a retention spring thing. I will try WD40 and see what results I get with that. I got it just loose enough with a slight pry that I wound up getting it off the calibration and had to make sure everything was lined up correctly again.....and put a piece of sponge behind the switch to keep it from twirling.. And yes, I spied the retention screw behind the knob....undoubtedly somewhere there is a special skinny wrench for unscrewing it.....hence the lock spring on the knob. I want to see how it fires now that the top wire is securely crimped. I will let you know what happens! My knob is one of the silver ones with Lo, 1 to 6 and High.
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