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Kiln lid is too small


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I'm trying too replace the lid on a 10 sided old skutt, maybe a 235 kiln sitter model. I have done much work on it through the years, even updating to computer control. I was always pointed towards the 1027 as it's modern equivalent, and had no problems. I buy a lid, I didn't measure it, that's on me, but it's too small. The existing kiln is 29 1/4 " wide. The 1027 is 28 3/8". I called Skutt, and was told I  had probably bought a Frankenstein, and that they never sold this size kiln, even back too the late 70s, which is when my sister in law purchased it new. I need to know if there is a 10 sided model, in any manufacturer, that fits this size.

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On 4/22/2022 at 9:29 PM, Johnmicheal said:

 

 

On 4/23/2022 at 9:19 AM, neilestrick said:

According to the L&L web site, their 10 sided kilns are 29.4" from corner to corner. Evenheat says 29.5", probably corner to corner as well, as they typically give the largest dimension.

My 29 1/4 measurement was from flat to flat, it's close too 30" corner to corner

23 hours ago, Denice said:

Could you use that lid for a new bottom?    Denice

No Denise, it wouldn't work as a bottom, and I don't really need one, but by a happy coincidence, it does fit my Olympic:)

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This is my existing lid, it formed a pressure crack down the middle. Can I simply put a new band around it with a little more aggressive clamping, or am I going to have to pull it apart and repair it. And put a more aggressive clamp on it .

It formed because the existing band had loosened, it was so old, I couldn't tighten it correctly. And the side support put a lot of uneven stress on it. I will likely hook it to the ceiling in the future.

PXL_20220426_002927657.jpg

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IMO, That it’s still together without a band is impressive.. don’t move it, put a fresh band around it lightly tighten and patch the small crack if you like by way of v groove and patch, then tighten the band fully. Then and only then is it safe to move.

Keeping this in one piece definitely makes the job way easier and likely to last.

Old L&L video https://youtu.be/fpUedqtHr8I

 

Edited by Bill Kielb
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Any sort of repair to the crack won't last. Lids get their strength from the staggered joints in the brick layout. A crack all the way across is weak, and mortar won't hold it together. If the crack hasn't gone all the way across yet then you may get some more life out of it, but it definitely needs the outer band. The repair job in the video will be fine for a bottom slab, but it won't hold up to the opening and closing of the lid.

What's your bottom slab look like? If it's in better shape, swap them.

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Just an FYI, without a tight secure band old lids tend to come apart along the joints as well as any major cracks. As the lid repeatedly heats and cools, these bonds micro crack so once the bands are removed quite often the bricks pull apart very very easily.  The point of it all, without a tight band, the lid has very little structural integrity.

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