Johnmicheal Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 I'm trying too replace the lid on a 10 sided old skutt, maybe a 235 kiln sitter model. I have done much work on it through the years, even updating to computer control. I was always pointed towards the 1027 as it's modern equivalent, and had no problems. I buy a lid, I didn't measure it, that's on me, but it's too small. The existing kiln is 29 1/4 " wide. The 1027 is 28 3/8". I called Skutt, and was told I had probably bought a Frankenstein, and that they never sold this size kiln, even back too the late 70s, which is when my sister in law purchased it new. I need to know if there is a 10 sided model, in any manufacturer, that fits this size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 According to the L&L web site, their 10 sided kilns are 29.4" from corner to corner. Evenheat says 29.5", probably corner to corner as well, as they typically give the largest dimension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 Could you use that lid for a new bottom? Denice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnmicheal Posted April 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 On 4/22/2022 at 9:29 PM, Johnmicheal said: On 4/23/2022 at 9:19 AM, neilestrick said: According to the L&L web site, their 10 sided kilns are 29.4" from corner to corner. Evenheat says 29.5", probably corner to corner as well, as they typically give the largest dimension. My 29 1/4 measurement was from flat to flat, it's close too 30" corner to corner 23 hours ago, Denice said: Could you use that lid for a new bottom? Denice No Denise, it wouldn't work as a bottom, and I don't really need one, but by a happy coincidence, it does fit my Olympic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 5 hours ago, Johnmicheal said: My 29 1/4 measurement was from flat to flat, it's close too 30" corner to corner Does your kiln have 2.5" or 3" thick walls? If they're 3", it would work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnmicheal Posted April 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 It's 3" brick, I'll look at it all again and see what I can do for a hing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnmicheal Posted April 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 This is my existing lid, it formed a pressure crack down the middle. Can I simply put a new band around it with a little more aggressive clamping, or am I going to have to pull it apart and repair it. And put a more aggressive clamp on it . It formed because the existing band had loosened, it was so old, I couldn't tighten it correctly. And the side support put a lot of uneven stress on it. I will likely hook it to the ceiling in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 (edited) IMO, That it’s still together without a band is impressive.. don’t move it, put a fresh band around it lightly tighten and patch the small crack if you like by way of v groove and patch, then tighten the band fully. Then and only then is it safe to move. Keeping this in one piece definitely makes the job way easier and likely to last. Old L&L video https://youtu.be/fpUedqtHr8I Edited April 26, 2022 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 Any sort of repair to the crack won't last. Lids get their strength from the staggered joints in the brick layout. A crack all the way across is weak, and mortar won't hold it together. If the crack hasn't gone all the way across yet then you may get some more life out of it, but it definitely needs the outer band. The repair job in the video will be fine for a bottom slab, but it won't hold up to the opening and closing of the lid. What's your bottom slab look like? If it's in better shape, swap them. Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnmicheal Posted April 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 (edited) The crack staggers, and follows the brick. I have kiln cement that I've used too repair bricks with. As well as some new banding, it's for a 1027, which is a hair short, but I should be able to make it work Edited April 26, 2022 by Johnmicheal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 Just an FYI, without a tight secure band old lids tend to come apart along the joints as well as any major cracks. As the lid repeatedly heats and cools, these bonds micro crack so once the bands are removed quite often the bricks pull apart very very easily. The point of it all, without a tight band, the lid has very little structural integrity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnmicheal Posted April 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 I'll pull it apart, and "glue" it back together, if it doesn't live, I'm not out anything. It'll work as a replacement bottom. The existing bottom isn't great, otherwise, I'd use it as a lid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnmicheal Posted May 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 I went with the smaller lid, nice thing about it is it fits this lid lifter that's been knocking about the shop for years. please excuse the brick I don't have a latch for it yet Pyewackette and neilestrick 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted May 11, 2022 Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 Looks fine to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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