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Everything posted by Johnmicheal

  1. From an earlier post, these are the bearings I used to rebuild my RK There are the 3 different sizes: Kit9705 6204-2NSE Nachi Bearing 20x47x14:Sealed:C3:Japan Kit9706 6205-2NSE Nachi Bearing 25x52x15:Sealed:C3:Japan Kit9703 6202-2NSE Nachi Bearing 15x35x11:Sealed:C3:Japan
  2. Heat it, the aluminum head will expand better than the steel shaft. I've done it before, about to do it again, lol. Even with a healthy coat of antiseize applied it still seized.
  3. There is adjustment under the wheel, it would be a good idea to look under there to see if anything is binding. I've used, and at times had to adjust it alittle over the years. I also drilled my wheel head as stated before. Works great.
  4. It's a matter of preference, we have 4 wheels, one of them happens to be a VL lite. Unfortunately, unless you get to try your wheel out at another studio for an extended time, it's hard to say what you will like. I can say the lite is used alot at studios teaching, there are a ton of brents in schools, old shipos from the 70s still lurking about. If you're worried about not being able to throw big, 10-20 lb is pretty big. I tend to adjust my throwing to the wheels strengths, as well as my clay body. Unfortunately, the stats published by manufacturers, due little too clear this up, and we all h
  5. So instead of the multiple connectors, I could just lug the two wires and the element together?
  6. How long do you run a pugmill before you can pug out the material, say 5 gal of broken down clay.
  7. I don't disagree with the need for ventilation and I view a cone pack through the same peep, but I doubt I would ever use 6. The cone pack at the bottom, I leave till I unload, it tells me what I need to know. Does anyone have any info as to why there are so many peep holes.
  8. Box works well, I left the top and bottom open. I'm not prone to setting things where they would drop in there, and I feel better when I can see what is going on in there. In it's next upgrade, I'll probably add some more ventilation, add the other feeder wire, separating the zones, and adding the additional thermocouples for zone control. Maybe sheath the feeder wires, I like the flexible conduit and the fact it's a good ground source. We'll see, I've got to go back to makin pots.
  9. I grounded the cover, which was attached to all three sections, and wrapped the feed wires till they were clear of the cover.
  10. My feed wires and jumped wire connection. Wrapped the wire going to the controller.
  11. So obviously we need peep holes from time to time, but why are there so many, and when I'm doing brick repair, can I just get rid of some of them. I leave my top peep open, I like to see a cone drop. But the rest are kind of a waste, and when I break one with my shin, I'm wondering A. Why don't I be alittle more careful B. Why can't I plug that hole with something that doesn't protrude into the path of a shin, thigh, hip. Please avail me of thy kiln wisdom.
  12. I still love my drycleaner bags, I can't remember the last time I actually drycleaned anything, but it didn't keep me from stopping in one and asking if they had any discards. I'm still using them, and that was 5-7 years ago, with a bag of them still in storage lol. They are light, they drape well, I double, sometimes triple them up to control drying.....and sticking with the subject, my workbench is clear, I'm ready to start again, pitchers are the need for this week
  13. I love the bowl idea, and I am going file them at the bisque stage, I've got four to mess with.
  14. Third try, I'll see how it pours when it's done, lol
  15. Funny you should mention this article, I just read it recently and it prompted me to post this query.
  16. It looks like thinner is the direction I will go, thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
  17. I have been making a two quart open pitcher. I have not figured out how to make them pour, and they tend to drip down the side. Fortunately, most people want them for vases, but I like to have things functional, and would like them to pour. This is one of the first. I have tried a narrower spout, and a more pronounced lip, I haven't tried thinning the lip, mainly for durability. Also I've already changed the handle for better control and aesthetics. Any suggestions
  18. I appreciate the explanation, as well as the terminology, it helps to source this stuff. I'm diggin it.
  19. The thing is, the cups that have handles your not quite sure about, will find a loving home. I don't know how many times I've made a set of cups that I am not crazy about, and take them to a show, even resist putting them out, and someone comes along, goads me to bring them out, and I sell everyone of them in no time, even going as far as discovering a new form I may have never given a thought too.
  20. Mark, Bill, Neal I have a cover, but it doesn't support the wiring. Kind of a proof of concept. As soon as I get my parts and finish the new cover with cable grip, I'll shoot you a pic. Looking into some coated sleeving, and grounding. Love the ideas, I hope this helps you Shawn, didn't mean to highjack your feed. In the box on the wall, I kept the baffle to take some of the strain off the connection in the box, eventually I'll use a grip there too.
  21. Neal could I use the same 3 wire, and use one of the wires as a ground. Changing to three 3-wire cords. One cord for each section. Or could I ground to a cover on the kiln, being it'll be connected to all three sections, then connect by wire to the control box.
  22. McMaster Carr SEOOW Zoom in for the specs, yes I put the thermocouple in the sitter hole, the wire is what Neal said lol.
  23. Shawn, this is alittle different, but along the same lines. The kiln body was an old skutt ks model, the control box was salvaged from a modern skutt kiln that had to be scrapped. I took Neal's external box idea to heart a couple years ago (he loves external boxes) and wired it accordingly. The control box has no modifications other than the feed wires coming from the kiln, (which are normally covered).
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