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Johnmicheal

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About Johnmicheal

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Mentone,Al

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    Nightingalepottery@yahoo.com

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  1. A reduction might be a fun idea for a kiln I'm about to replace some elements in.
  2. I hadn't considered coating the elements. Could you create a reduction atmosphere in a kiln with coated elements?
  3. I've read that it also increases the efficiency of the kiln. I do fire alot, and the fact that my kilns are 20-30 years old and have been rebuilt a couple times, durability wouldn't hurt. Are there any competing products?
  4. I have a couple 1027s, an olympic and a 1227 skutt kilns, the brick are good, usual wear. Was about to start going through them one at a time. Elements, converting to three zone, upgrade some control boxes. I thought while the elements were out, I'd consider spraying the body's with a refractory coating. I have heard of itc, but was wondering if there were any like products, or better products on the market. Even thought of coating my thermocouple to prolong it's life, especially now that I'll have three per kiln, yikes.
  5. Everytime I rebuild a kiln, I try too do upgrades that should make them last longer, run more efficient, safer, ect. I'm considering using an ITC coatings this time on the kiln body, and if it goes well, add it to my upgrade program. I've seen products for the brick itself, and coatings for the elements also. Do any of you have any idea how well these products work, and products that you like.
  6. It's a 2327, with a small electrositter converter box made by Bartlett. I imagine if I'm going to increase to two-three more relays, I'll have to think about a new box too. I can do that, but if I'm going to go that far, I'd just assume mount the new box on the wall, and run all the cabling too it. I've done it before. I just couldn't remember if the relays on amazon would work for this application. They are quite a bit cheaper than the skutt equipment.
  7. Can I use the same 25 amp relays I use on my skutt, model 2139 relay, or a generic relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07K2QZ97Z/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_8?smid=A3M6TV4DFEXUV8&psc=1#
  8. I have an older olympic kiln that I added an electrositter from bartlet. I want to change from the single thermocouple to two or three zones, changing to multiple relays. Can you tell me the model/brand/spec of relay to use to make this change.
  9. From an earlier post, these are the bearings I used to rebuild my RK There are the 3 different sizes: Kit9705 6204-2NSE Nachi Bearing 20x47x14:Sealed:C3:Japan Kit9706 6205-2NSE Nachi Bearing 25x52x15:Sealed:C3:Japan Kit9703 6202-2NSE Nachi Bearing 15x35x11:Sealed:C3:Japan
  10. Heat it, the aluminum head will expand better than the steel shaft. I've done it before, about to do it again, lol. Even with a healthy coat of antiseize applied it still seized.
  11. There is adjustment under the wheel, it would be a good idea to look under there to see if anything is binding. I've used, and at times had to adjust it alittle over the years. I also drilled my wheel head as stated before. Works great.
  12. It's a matter of preference, we have 4 wheels, one of them happens to be a VL lite. Unfortunately, unless you get to try your wheel out at another studio for an extended time, it's hard to say what you will like. I can say the lite is used alot at studios teaching, there are a ton of brents in schools, old shipos from the 70s still lurking about. If you're worried about not being able to throw big, 10-20 lb is pretty big. I tend to adjust my throwing to the wheels strengths, as well as my clay body. Unfortunately, the stats published by manufacturers, due little too clear this up, and we all h
  13. So instead of the multiple connectors, I could just lug the two wires and the element together?
  14. How long do you run a pugmill before you can pug out the material, say 5 gal of broken down clay.
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