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  1. OLYMPIC 2327G Gas Kiln and Accessories for sale $850 Pick-up in Red Bank, NJ 07701. Contact: Lauren 732-208-5986 or preeser33@gmail.com 2327G Torchbearer, 23”W x 27”H, 7 cf, 2350°/cone 10, 3-burner. Substantially upgraded by original owner. In his words: "Cheap pipe burners replaced with MR-750 venturi burners and thermocouple safety upgraded to a heavy duty model - all from Marc Ward Burners. Kiln will fire to cone 6 in 4 hours if not held back. Capable of firing to cone 10. Equipped with Baso safety valve and a Kilnsitter connected to an electric solenoid valve in the gas line. I have only fired the kiln about ten times to cone 6." Since acquiring the kiln, the interior and shelves have been ITC'd. Only fired 3 more times at low temperature. Very lightly used. All in working order and in good condition. Includes shelves, two (100# and 60#) partially-full propane tanks, regulator, cones, and Tru-View P-2 multi-zone pyrometer. Total package well over $2300 new.
  2. I have an Olympic 2327 1phase 240. After many years of manually firing, I have bought an electrositter to replace the kiln sitter. One of my reasons for going in this direction, other than the obvious improvement in control, is I'm tired of replacing switches. My question is, what is the most efficient way to eliminate the three manual switches. Wiring diagram would be appreciated, I am a visual type of person. I have good idea of what's needed. I thought I would gather as much info as possible.
  3. I am noticing a slight increase in time to run a cone 6 glaze firing and my witness cones are starting show slightly less of a bend than previously so I think it's time to start planning an element replacement. I am at 180 total firings, 87 cone 6 slow glaze, 72 cone 04 slow Bisque and 21 cone 05 slow glaze transfer firings. I've never done this before sooooo how hard is it? Do I need to replace anything else while I am doing it? Like relays, pins, high temp connectors, etc? I have an Olympic Freedom 1823HE. I have found a repair man that will come down from the John C Campbell school and do it but I have no idea what price range I am looking at for the job. I'd also really REALLY like to learn to do it myself BUT don't want to mess up my kiln. I think knowing how to replace the elements in my kiln is vital to my growth as a potter, I like to understand how things work and go together, etc. Sooooo honestly speaking how hard is it and are there any tricks I should know going in? OR Should I just bite the bullet and let someone else do it for me? Thank you all once again for your help. T
  4. In resourcing parts for my own kiln controllers, I have noticed a simular design shared between the bartlet v6, skutt, dynatrol control boards. I like continuity between controllers for ease of programming, but not all my kilns are made by the same manufacturers. The cost isn't so much an issue. Can I run any of these controllers on my kilns. I have Olympic2327 and skutt1027 1227 kilns so far, similar in size, I like multi zone control. I was going to just mount my controllers on the wall and run the thermocouple/power wires over to the kilns ( much like a L&L Jupiter controller). Has anyone wired these controllers with this cross compatibility in mind? And how similar is the programs on these controllers?
  5. Hi, folks, Have 'inherited' an old Olympic kiln, Model #2831(no additional letters), 240 v, max temp 2250, cone 6 (all this is on the metal label). According to our neighbor it had been in the barn for a looonnng time. It's about 4' tall on a stand and maybe 25 or so inches in diameter. Mostly intact but according to an electrician who looked at it will need at least one new element and replacement of one of the plugs that connect the three sections together (chewed by a desperate mouse apparently). I've looked on line using the model number and serial number but haven't found anything to match. Since there are at least 2 parts that need replacement (perhaps more since I'm not sure about the kiln controller box - that's where the chewed plug is) I am wondering if anyone has suggestions about how where to look or whom to talk to so that I can figure out if the kiln can be made operable. Thanks and Happy New Year! Kristi
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