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Found 12 results

  1. I'm trying too replace the lid on a 10 sided old skutt, maybe a 235 kiln sitter model. I have done much work on it through the years, even updating to computer control. I was always pointed towards the 1027 as it's modern equivalent, and had no problems. I buy a lid, I didn't measure it, that's on me, but it's too small. The existing kiln is 29 1/4 " wide. The 1027 is 28 3/8". I called Skutt, and was told I had probably bought a Frankenstein, and that they never sold this size kiln, even back too the late 70s, which is when my sister in law purchased it new. I need to know if there is a 10 sided model, in any manufacturer, that fits this size.
  2. I bought a Skutt Km 1227 off of a friend. It’s in great condition but I did a glow test this morning and only the top two and bottom two elements were glowing by the time it got up to 500. I opened up the electrical panel and everything seems to be connected fine and looks to be in good condition. Has anyone run into this before or know what the problem could be?
  3. Hi there, I've been a member for quite a while but this is my first time posting. Up until recently I was in a communal studio but I am more than likely getting my own space in July. I've been shopping around for kilns but I'm having a hard time making up my mind. First of all I'm not sure if I should get a L&L or a Skutt (I will be buying it brand new). Secondly I'm having a hard time decided on the size. I'm not the tallest person and also have some lower back problems occasionally so I was thinking of getting a short model (Skutt KMT 1022 or 1218, or L&L e28s). Mostly looking for a kiln between 7-8 cubic feet as I will be doing a lot of production. My question with the wider shorter kilns, does it have a harder time reaching temperature due to the width? Also is it worth it getting the 3" brick? I will be firing to cone 5. I've only worked with a Skutt KM1027 which I like a lot but I'm afraid the height might bother me in the long run. And one last questions regarding the touchscreen, I really like the way the Skutt KMT's look and I'm unsure about the Genesis Touchscreen Controller. Thanks in advance for any opinions or experiences! Ekua
  4. Hi everyone, I recently took the plunge and got myself a new Skutt 818 kiln. I set it up and started a test fire like they recommended in the manual. But while it was firing, I noticed a gap between the lid and the main body. I'm not sure if it's a fitting issue and if I have a defective model but I wanted to get opinions from those who have more experiences with kilns before contacting the dealership. In the last image of the two bars, the bottom bar is not perfectly sitting parallel to the body of the kiln so I'm wondering if that's the cause of the issue. Should I send it back or get it repaired? Thank you all for your replies!
  5. Hey all! I just purchased an old Skutt 1027 to do bisque firings in. The top ring is unattached. I need to wire it back together! There are 2 grounding wires and one conducting wire that lead from the middle box to the top box...all unattached. There's a wiring diagram at the end of this manual. I just don't know how to read it. I have two questions: 1. How do I determine which grounding wire ( N & L according to the diagram) goes to each ground? 2. Which of the three available connections do I connect the conducting wire to?
  6. Just installed a new envirovent, seems to be working properly but it's really loud. Like vacuum cleaner loud. A freebie noise measuring app on my phone put it between 76-82 decibels, and I can't imagine this thing running for the length of a firing, for me and for neighbors. A few questions for the collective: Is noise a known issue for the envirovent II system, or is it possible I have a defective unit? If it is just the way it is, how do you handle the noise? Do you keep it running for the entire time? Has the noise discouraged you from using it? Thanks, all!
  7. I am looking at upgrading my skutt kilns to the newer touchscreen interface. Pretty straight forward process. But can you use one of these interfaces on on a competitors kiln. I have a couple old olympics of similar size, ect to a 1027. They are about to become, individually zoned, relayed, ect. Perfect time for an upgrade. I know Bartlet has the Genesis programer, but I like continuity if I can get it.
  8. The control box was off when I acquired the kiln and I’m not sure where some of the wires go such as the two black ground wires in the top box section and the two yellow wires that come out of the heat switch in the top section. I’d like to get the panel reconnected to the kiln but the wiring diagram in the manual is a little confusing. I’m not see a interbox that the manual mentions either. I’ve replaced the tube assembly. I’ve attached photos of the control box. Please let me know what you think! https://freeimage.host/i/2Syhwg https://freeimage.host/i/2Syjta https://freeimage.host/i/2SyNoJ https://freeimage.host/i/2SyOMv
  9. When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has badly cracked on both the inside and outside, necessitating repair with kiln cement. I have a large electric Skutt Kiln (I think it's the 1227). Even with my repair, it is all fractured and occasionally falls onto the pots below. The metal handle is also badly rusted and corroded, an issue I didn't notice when I bought this kiln used a couple years ago. I notice when I close the lid on an 1000F kiln it makes a soft settling crackling noise. I am curious if the cracking lid is from thermal shock when it goes from hot room temp to 1000F. Because of this, i wonder if it's better not to close it so late (and hot) in the firing. Perhaps it's just time for an envirovent. Is it normal for a lid to start to deteriorate like this? The newer versions of my kiln are made with the hydraulic lid lifter, which I assume lifts it more evenly, without the torque from supporting it on just one part. Please let me know if anyone else has had this cracking lid issue. -Dana
  10. Hi all, So I'm a bit new to the downdraft vent game and have a question. I was advised to drill two 1/4" holes in bottom, and lid. It probably wasn't needed to drill into the lid because i have an older skutt and i know it's not vacuum tight. But I have it all hooked up proper and it draws a flame through each hole in the lid (when kiln is off). My question is (and this may be obvious) but as the kiln is on and reaching around 1000 f, heat is obviously rising and my little lid holes seem to be blowing out heat as opposed to sucking in? Is this completely normal? Can I assume my vent is still sucking in room air through those lid holes and mixing? Or am I just blowing out heat and fumes? Thanks!
  11. Hi there, I'm finally at the stage in my pottery journey where I think buying a kiln would be a worthwhile investment. I've been scouring the internet for several months with no success until I got an offer to buy an old kiln: Skutt Model C181 with all the furniture and other accessories. I already went to check it out in person and the condition was fairly good considering that it was 30 year old kiln but he was asking for $950 CAD which I brought down to $700 CAD. I don't mind buying a used kiln to learn more about firing and glazing but I also don't want to overpay for it. I live in Canada so there's not a lot of pottery equipment for sale but I am willing to pass on this if it's a bad deal. Here are the images from the seller down below: Thank you so much for all your help
  12. Hi. I have an old skutt kiln model 231. The bottom ring is in such disrepair that I’d have to replace pretty much every component. Does anyone know if I can fire the kiln with just the two rings? The kiln setter and timer is attached to the once middle, now bottom, if I use only the two. I just tried it out and nothing happened. Trying to determine if the bottom ring is key or I have some other problem going on. Thanks!!! -Stephen
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