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Puggers and changing clay types


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@Crooked Lawyer Potter Which unit did you get?  I'm still waffling between the VPM9ss and the VPM20ss.  I need to make up my mind.  It occurs to me that the 9 would have an advantage if you try to actually use the extruder dies for it.  Or maybe not since it doesn't have to be full to pug, it just won't pug out the last few pounds. Those "few pounds" are fewer in the 9 than the 20. So maybe it doesn't make that much of a difference for that purpose either.  ARRRRGH! DECISIONS!

Oh and I brought home a bat yesterday.  I'll give my wheel a whirl (sorta literally I guess, for sure maybe) and see what happens when I turn it on for the first time in like 10 years.  Wish me luck!

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On 4/23/2022 at 3:42 AM, Pyewackette said:

@Crooked Lawyer Potter Which unit did you get?  I'm still waffling between the VPM9ss and the VPM20ss.  I need to make up my mind.  It occurs to me that the 9 would have an advantage if you try to actually use the extruder dies for it.  Or maybe not since it doesn't have to be full to pug, it just won't pug out the last few pounds. Those "few pounds" are fewer in the 9 than the 20. So maybe it doesn't make that much of a difference for that purpose either.  ARRRRGH! DECISIONS!

Oh and I brought home a bat yesterday.  I'll give my wheel a whirl (sorta literally I guess, for sure maybe) and see what happens when I turn it on for the first time in like 10 years.  Wish me luck!

I've got a VPM-7.  I'm really just a hobbiest and sell only so that my garage does not fill up with pots.  Its plenty big for me.  But again, I want to caution new owners that there is a break in period.  Difficult for me at first but once you get to know the machine it seems to work better and better.  I really like it.

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I used a red clay for some years with the Peter Pugger, then decided to primarily use a white clay. I still use both clays, but I just use the Peter Pugger for the white clay I now most frequently use, rather than the bother of cleaning it out between changes. 

When I did clean the Peter Pugger after some years with the red, I took it apart to thoroughly clean and that worked for everything except the inside walls of the mixing chamber, where the residue of the red clay seemed embedded in the slightly rough inside surface. I took the mixing chamber to a local sandblaster and for $80 it was essentially resurfaced.  

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Yes the aluminum barrels get pitted over time expecially from low fire talc bodies and  all porcelains -sandbasting helps as noted above. The stainless machines not so much as the metal is much more durable and tough. 

My used VPM 30 was pitted from a school low fire program-then I have used it for years with Porcelains (I never clean it now but did once to get out the low fire clay) The newer stainless VPM SS20 is slick as can be no pits ever with all porcelain  (I never clean it).

 

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11 hours ago, Pyewackette said:

@Babs So what do you do with the "blush" clay? I mean if its in the same firing range the mixture ought to be ok, but what if you're pushing out cone 10 porcelain after cone 04 earthenware?  :blink:

Hmmm........I am not. This works for me.

Tiler puts out white, blush  and terracotta tiles, unglazed, blush line, lovwely.

I use the blush forg mugs , planters, bowls with glazes are ok.

Other glazes wait for the clear line of clay.

Works for me, that is all.

Better than wreckinv my septuagenerian  back eh?

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So am I going to find an "O" ring between the 2 major parts of the unit?

yes there is an o ring at every junction an every Peter pugger-they make the seal the the vacuum makes. All metal to metal connections  have them.

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@Crooked Lawyer Potter The only way that seems likely is if you damage the o-ring, and then you just replace the o-ring.  It's like the washers in your garden hose.  They get damaged from time to time and then they fail to seal and then ... you just replace them.

Easy-peasy.  Promise.

I plan to train my son to help me clean it out.  Then when I'm even older, he can do it under my supervision LOL!

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OK.  Here goes.

This will be the last time I do it since I've decided to quit using the dark clays.  I get this longing for them every so often -- I see pieces that look so earthy and fundamental.  But after a day or two I realize what a mess they make in my studio!  Im sticking with good ole BMix from now on.  (or at least not using the pugger to prepare the dark clays)

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A light smear of silicone grease. do not use any sharp objest on o-rings every as you will nick them. Wipe them down with water and a rag to get clay off. Dry and wipe with silicone grease (go buy some 1st) bolt it up evenly and forget about it.

I diving we depend on o-rings with our lives-they are easy to care for.

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7 hours ago, Crooked Lawyer Potter said:

OK.  Here goes.

This will be the last time I do it since I've decided to quit using the dark clays.  I get this longing for them every so often -- I see pieces that look so earthy and fundamental.  But after a day or two I realize what a mess they make in my studio!  Im sticking with good ole BMix from now on.  (or at least not using the pugger to prepare the dark clays)

You can coat your white with an earthy slip, just saying. Done a lot the get the ubiquitous speckle but can go gutsier too.

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14 hours ago, Babs said:

You can coat your white with an earthy slip, just saying. Done a lot the get the ubiquitous speckle but can go gutsier too.

Exactly my plan! 

I disassembled and cleaned it out last night and all appears well.  I took the opportunity to see exactly how much clay would fit into the chamber and how much would then be pugged out.  I put in a full 25 pounds and got back out right at 15.5 pounds.

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