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ronfire

Lid handle problem

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First time I have had a lid handle come off. Took a look into the kiln this morning and found the handle had come off. Wonder if it did not dry fully because of how far it moved from the centre.  What would be the best to attach it for the glaze fire, slip with magic water ( that was on it the first time ) paper clay or just a layer of glaze between?  The lid fits so well I prefer not to throw another one. Worst that can happen is it does not work.

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Edited by ronfire
typo

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I use a variety of products

magic water is not one of them

bisque fix-it is thick  but can be thinned-I seem to use this the most-this stuff leaves a white line

Marks ware repair-Axner-the most fluid of menders-this stuff leaves a darker line-I use this when I want very little material as its thin

Aztex high fire mender -you make it thick or thin-this stuff leave less of a mark-I like this product ans use it some as well

 

after the repair is dried i always glaze with my black thick runny under glaze that flows and covers the seems then a rutile riunny glaze over that.

otherwise the repair will show

The other thing you could do is use wood glue and let dry and galze it up-works much of the time as well

 

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How did you make and attach the knob- did you throw it separately and then attach it, or did you throw it right on the pot? Did you score well when you attached it? From the photo I don't see any evidence of scoring. Even if you throw it right on the pot, you need to score. You also need to make sure it's totally dry before firing, and don't go too fast at the beginning, because that area is a lot thicker than the rest of the pot.

I would not try any method of attaching it, because it's not 100% sure to hold long term. That's a big lid to drop. Like Sorcery said, with some sanding you could smooth out that area and drill a hole before glaze firing. After firing attach a knob, using a stainless steel washer on the inside to distribute the pressure on the lid. If you want it to be oven safe, use a stainless drawer pull (lots of people do that with their cast iron dutch ovens because the plastic knobs that come with them can't handle the high temps for bread baking).

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I scored the lid, that is why the round lines under the knob. Don't know why they are raised, maybe because of the slip. I did throw the knob on the lid after trimming it, scoring it and using slip with magic water . Have done this before and never had an issue, maybe it was not totally dry yet.

I does fit back on well, would glaze in the joint like glue not hold it well after a glaze fire at cone 6?

Think next lid I will trim a hollow or hole in the knob section.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, ronfire said:

I scored the lid, that is why the round lines under the knob. Don't know why they are raised, maybe because of the slip. I did throw the knob on the lid after trimming it, scoring it and using slip with magic water . Have done this before and never had an issue, maybe it was not totally dry yet.

I does fit back on well, would glaze in the joint like glue not hold it well after a glaze fire at cone 6?

Think next lid I will trim a hollow or hole in the knob section.

 

 

The glaze will hold the knob, but not with much strength. I wouldn't trust it on a lid that size.

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Maybe you could combine ideas from Mark and Neil: 

Drill a hole through knob and lid, and  follow Mark's suggestion to glue it on and glaze over.   Then, assuming it stays in place through the firing, take Neil's advice and use a stainless steel bolt, nut, and washer(s) to reinforce it so you're not relying solely on the glaze to hold it together.

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