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From 4 cuft to 12 cuft, finally got a big boy kiln!


liambesaw
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Saw a listing for a 12 cuft kiln on Craigslist, newly refurbished, newly outfitted with a digital controller.  This thing is fabulous!  Cost me 1500 dollars, but came with enough brand new furniture to keep this sucker full for life.  New elements, the full meal deal.

So happy now!  The only electrical upgrade I needed to do was swap out my 50 amp breaker for a 60 amp because when I was wiring my previous kiln, @Bill Kielb suggested I go with 6 gauge wire in case I wanted to upgrade my kiln later.  THANK YOU!  

So yeah, this will provide quite a bit more space for me and room to grow as well.  Couldn't be happier!

It's still in my truck right now, but will be setting up once my wife gets home to help.

 

image-20200208_093335_copy_1209x1612.jpg

IMG_20200208_110422_01_copy_1612x1209.jpg

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Congrats!

Take a look at the hinge system. A lot of the ovals on the market don't have a system that's adequate. Because the long sides of the kiln are essentially straight, there's a lot of flex there compared to the rounded ends. Opening and closing the lid will put a lot of strain on the bricks at the top, so if the hinge is only mounted to the top section of the kiln, it will destroy those bricks in short order. If that's what you've got, I highly recommend taking some stiff aluminum or steel pieces, maybe 6" wide, and running them from the top of the kiln to the bottom to lock the sections together and stiffen everything up around the hinge.

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22 minutes ago, neilestrick said:

Congrats!

Take a look at the hinge system. A lot of the ovals on the market don't have a system that's adequate. Because the long sides of the kiln are essentially straight, there's a lot of flex there compared to the rounded ends. Opening and closing the lid will put a lot of strain on the bricks at the top, so if the hinge is only mounted to the top section of the kiln, it will destroy those bricks in short order. If that's what you've got, I highly recommend taking some stiff aluminum or steel pieces, maybe 6" wide, and running them from the top of the kiln to the bottom to lock the sections together and stiffen everything up around the hinge.

I'll look into it, the sections are all bolted together but I might run some angle iron down the back just to make sure

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21 minutes ago, neilestrick said:

Congrats!

Take a look at the hinge system. A lot of the ovals on the market don't have a system that's adequate. Because the long sides of the kiln are essentially straight, there's a lot of flex there compared to the rounded ends. Opening and closing the lid will put a lot of strain on the bricks at the top, so if the hinge is only mounted to the top section of the kiln, it will destroy those bricks in short order. If that's what you've got, I highly recommend taking some stiff aluminum or steel pieces, maybe 6" wide, and running them from the top of the kiln to the bottom to lock the sections together and stiffen everything up around the hinge.

Good catch! Always thought if I needed to I would retrofit the cone art system . It’s pretty sound but requires all three pieces to work (back hinge and two side)  together and probably not cheap  as a replacement set.

63A6E87A-F344-4144-B216-5FEB7F2D1EC2.jpeg

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5 minutes ago, liambesaw said:

I'll look into it, the sections are all bolted together but I might run some angle iron down the back just to make sure

Use some wider, stiff sheet metal rather than angle. The wider the better, as it will spread out the stresses over a greater area, and increase stiffness horizontally as well as vertically.

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6 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:

Good catch! Always thought if I needed to I would retrofit the cone art system . It’s pretty sound but requires all three pieces to work (back hinge and two side)  together and probably not cheap  as a replacement set.

63A6E87A-F344-4144-B216-5FEB7F2D1EC2.jpeg

That's a nice design for an oval hinge system. It puts the stress on the part of the kiln that's stiffer.

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5 minutes ago, liambesaw said:

No, it's a crucible kiln from Seattle pottery supply.  Small hometown brand but quite popular around the Northwest

Ah yes. I set up a manual version of that oval for someone around here a couple of months ago, and put a wall mount controller to it. I had to speak with their tech since the controls were in a big pile, and he was very helpful.

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5 minutes ago, neilestrick said:

Ah yes. I set up a manual version of that oval for someone around here a couple of months ago, and put a wall mount controller to it. I had to speak with their tech since the controls were in a big pile, and he was very helpful.

Their kiln people are very good, Seattle pottery supply's retail people have the opposite reputation :lol:

 

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46 minutes ago, Babs said:

Liam last seen loading a v heavy pot into top loader.. ..wife better check uf you're quieter than usual out there...time for those back muscle workouts you've been gunna do for years!

Looks a fine kiln!

Thanks Babs!  Hopefully I don't end up disappearing into it, but I definitely could fit in there comfortably... Might be nice and warm even.. hmmmmm

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41 minutes ago, Min said:

Oh, a 12 cubic foot kiln running on 48amps with a 60 amp breaker? 

That's the idea, I don't know if it's actually 12 cubic feet, that's just what the guy I bought it from said.  If anyone has an oval cylinder volume calculator it's 25 deep x 27 tall x 37 wide

Edited by liambesaw
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Cone 10 according to the nameplate, but it also says that if you plan on firing to cone 10 to order with the 4 inch bricks.  I'm not planning on going to cone 10 though. We will see how it performs tomorrow.  I'm doing a bisque fire right now and will do a glaze fire tomorrow if it's cooled down before I go to bed.

 

I'm sure it will though, the person I bought it from had already fired it a few times to cone 6

Edited by liambesaw
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