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Not a full load?


Pres

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I have calculated the last two loads of glaze, and find that the second load will be short one layer. My instincts are to have the short layer in the bottom of the kiln, and thus load to the top, instead of loading the kiln and leaving much of the top empty. Thoughts?

 

best,

Pres

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I can only speak to my experience but if I put short stacks on the bottom (2-3 inch posts) it gets a lot more heatwork than if I put them Midway or up top.  I think it's because it's so close to a large mass of brick and also the two shelves they're sandwiched between.  Not sure.  Probably will be fine though, I'm sure your kiln fires more evenly than mine ;)

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Just put an extra shelf in with some kiln posts scattered on it to add some mass and simulate a full load. Stack it the way you normally do. (one of these days you are going to so love firing with a 3 zone controlled kiln ;))

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Yeah, hopefully replace this full manual with something upscale. I have a Skutt I will be getting rid of, don't have the space for two different shelf sets. I thought it an interesting exercise. I usually put a double split  shelf on 4" and 6", then mugs will go up 3 levels with the honey jars at the top. Honey jars are taller than mugs as the lids are fired upside down. Usually run cone pack at middle peep, fire to hard ^6 on full pack. This will be fired just a tad lighter.

 

best,

Pres

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OK....this is looking like something else I need to know about this new generation of doing the work   (also retiree Pres!).   I scored an old Olympic 18 series cone 10 kiln....each ring has its own element.....but the shelves are very small---.so you are saying this thing has to be loaded evenly or short shelves on the top?

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