Hulk
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Posts posted by Hulk
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Hi AndrewB, Welcome to the Forum!
Is that a "flange mount" bearing assembly?
If so, is there a cartridge bearing that is replaceable, or must the entire assembly be replaced?Bearing 6204 is familiar to me; it's common for bicycle hubs. I've used the double seal (designated by "2RS") type.
ABEC 5 seems a reasonable tradeoff between cost and durability, a worthwhile step up from ABEC 3, imo; I'd stay away from the "ceramic" type - high cost for a bit less friction and not necessarily more durable...
The Enduro brand is widely available and lasts better than other brands I've tried. Vendor WheelsMfg.com has been great ...they used to offer cartridge bearings via https://bicyclepartsdirect.com/ - however, I'm not seeing 6204 (or any other wheel/hub) bearings there now...
The 6204, however, is 20mm ID x 47mm OD x 14mm wide.
I'm not finding a spec of BPF6X30MMAdded: if there is a cartridge bearing to press in/out, a bearing press can be very handy, for
a) it is important to apply force only to the outer bearing race edge (of the new bearing)
b) it is important to maintain alignment throughout the pressing (in and out)Once the bearing gets a bit tilted, it can be difficult to straighten out without damaging the bearing and/or the hub.
Added II: does it look somewhat like this?
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I'm not finding much on how that kiln is set up...
Olympic's Electric Kilns manual includes a blurb on large kiln infinite switches:"Infinite Switches – TURN ON WHEN FIRING Large capacity electric kilns which are equipped with floor and door elements have infinite switches which control the heat intensity of the elements in the floor; and the left and right side of the door."
You might give Olympic a call?
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Not seeing any kilns on GovDeals this morning, however, check later, for it is the time of year for clear outs...
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The diagram relates o'clock to degree angle - the units depicted are not temperature degrees.
O'clock to temperature would "have to" include rate, hence, o'clock (or degree angle) to temperature degree at a specified rate (temperature degrees per hour).
This is the only reference I've seen (err, remember seeing) that relates temperature rate to o'clock position.
units depicted: o'clock, angle degree, °C degreeCone ten cone, at the specified rate (60°C/Hour), the temperature difference ~27°C (~50°F) at forty degree bend, is, err, appears to be significant.
By which, I'm suggesting the forty degree bend in the OP's seven cone may be significant.
Falling the rest of the way, as Bill points out, happens quickly.
How much more heat work is required to slump/deform the cone once the tip is supported by the shelf? -
Skutt Stephen Hill model (circa 2016) on base legs.
This wheel has a heavy cast built-in splash pan. The wheel head is easily removable (never got in the habit of pulling the wheel head to clean...).
I sit on a low-slung wooden chair (with a plastic covered seat pad) pulled up tight against the wheel's front leg.Within the pan:
on the left, a one-gallon plastic bucket, a half grout sponge tucked between the bucket and the pan, and a piece of chamois clothespinned to the bucket
on the right, two half grout sponges stacked in the corner, where I set the pointer tool and metal kidney; next to it, a glazed cylinder with throwing or trimming tools;nearby, two small sponge piecesOutside the pan:
on the right, the gas pedal is on the floor; next to it, a plastic pan I toss clay bits into; just behind and to the right of the gas pedal, a plastic crate, on which rests a piece of paper, a ballpoint pen, a glazed bowl for slip collection*, a razor blade, a backup pen, the sound system remote; hanging from the chair's arm rest, a rag towel or two**
on the left, a small three level shelf thing, where rests the other tool cylinder, an array of occasional use tools (ribs, drill bits, rounding bowl, rounding tumblers, and other stuff); an old adjustable office/desk lamp mounted on a roll around - so handy! !!Behind the wheel, a window with an adjustable shade. The light is nice! In Summer, the afternoon light and heat is too much...
Overhead, two four foot led fixtures. On the far right, two trouble lights.
I sometimes keep a second water bucket nearby for rinsing hands before toweling them off - then the rag/towel doesn't get filled with dust, and the hands are "clean"er.
*Handy for fixes, handles, knobs, etc. the next day. I scrape some off my hands and plop it in the bowl, then add some water before stepping away...
**There are times when damp/wet hands won't do. These get rotated frequently, for clay dust is baaad! -
"Would you mind sharing your bisque firing schedule? "
I'd programmed a bisque schedule to match up with my notes from fully manual kiln.
The main thing being long hold at 1500°F ...if you're using the same clay (same batch), and firing rate (new kiln) is the only change...# rate target hold
1 100 200 :15
2 300 1500 :60
3 160 1945 :00
in °F
Where I'll skip the first segment when the kiln was ran up to 200°F the night before.
I'd forgotten that I'd combined the two half hour holds to one longer hold...When I've had bloating (dark red clay, black clay), they appeared where the wares were a smidge thicker.
Your blemishes, looks like they are in the thinner/thinnest part.
The "adequate oxygen" would be (could be) an important part of "burning out impurities" idea.Particles of other clay and/or tiny air pockets, both seem reasonable theories, particularly as you are firing well below the clay vendor's published limit.
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We had soft water at the last house.
Some clays settle faster than others has been my observation, but every clay I've tried will show some clear at the top within a reasonable time.
How much clear, that's variable; the ones that have just a few inches of clear at the top take much much longer to separate any further. -
Cone packs on all levels complete the picture?
...where some variation between levels is typical, in my (limited) experience.Where the cone has bent to the point where the tip rests on the shelf, hard to say how much heat work there without a guard cone.
I'm not finding a resource indicating what a forty-degree bend in large cone seven means; this article has a cone ten depicted with o'clock positions and temperatures when rate is 60°C/Hour: Pyrometric Cone (digitalfire.com) ...forty degrees ~= 28°CWhere the target is cone five to "five and a half," bending the seven is too much for the buff and red clays I was using a while back.
No problem for the red clay I'm using now, and the white and light buff clays are ok too... -
Hi Lindsay, welcome to the Forum!
Slowing your bisque - allowing more time to burn out impurities may help.
Choosing clay(s) that mature at your target temperature, I'll recommend that!Are you firing your wares twice - bisque fire, then hotter glaze fire?
...or are you single firing?Either way, faster ramp up to target temp means less time to burn out impurities; your prior kiln allowed much more time.
Slowing your bisque fire, particularly around 1500-1800°F might help.
Adequate oxygen may also be important*.
If the clay hasn't changed, and you're firing to the same target temperature (verified by cones), the firing schedule is a likely culprit.
I'm seeing much less defects** since adding significant delays (on the ramp up and the ramp down) to my bisque schedule.Bloating (digitalfire.com)
* Note the last sentence here: Kiln venting system (digitalfire.com)**bloating in dark clays, particularly where the walls are smidge thicker;
"large particle defect" - random craters;
pinholes
- Rae Reich, Bill Kielb and LindsayM
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Good question!
Brushing/brushable glaze might spray ok.
Sprayed coating, we want the material to "wet" the surface, lay down flat, stay put (not run/drip) ...and somewhat else I'm not remembering just now.
If you give it a try, let us know how it goes? -
Good question!
If temporary, a large vinyl flooring remnant could be an option?
Where the edges are well away from the activity, a damp mop makes cleaning up easy.
If the edges turn up at the wall/baseboard (wall to wall!), then doing something at the door(s) to mitigate the tripping hazard remains.If permanent, vinyl might still be an option, but putting something flat, dense, and smooth under is likely required.
- Rae Reich, Roberta12 and Bill Kielb
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Cowley Double Drive, hmm, made in New Zealand?
"Double" - perhaps on account of familiar cone and drive ring speed is reduced by pulleys and belt to the wheel head shaft...
Which model? ...there may be a model and serial number somewhere.Here's an "Operating Manual" dated 2018 cowley_wheel_manual.pdf (bathpotters.co.uk)
Newer manual includes parts diagram and list, alas, no wiring diagram MASTER Pottery Wheels Owners Manual Jan 2024.pdf (wsimg.com)
The vendor (firedupkilns) may be able to help, however.
- Bill Kielb and Mike-H
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A few Artista threads; there are at least three long time Forum regulars who own(ed) and use(d) an Artista:
Artista Potter's Wheel Question - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
Speedball Artista Potters Wheel - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
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I've a particle board "bat" just thick enough to cover the pins for trimming*.
I'm using clay to hold the wares in place - rather a lot, for I need both hands to use trimming tools; the right wants to be in charge (control) but needs the left for support**. I grab a handful, for it will need re-wetting throughout the session.
For narrow topped wares, there's an (ever growing) collection of tapered vessels to set the ware in, which I then fix to the "bat" with clay.
...so far, each time I think it's time to fashion a chuck, I've found somewhat else that will work.Much as a Giffin Grip would seem ideal for me, I'm accustomed to my process.
So far, I think of somewhat else I'd rather have for the $...*which eliminates the striking hazard of bare bat pins...
**Oh, they (hands) work, just not the same as they were decades ago.
Our adaptations/workarounds, we (err, I) become accustomed and don't always notice "what's missing" if it's not right in front of us! -
Good question.
ASTM article (formerly $48) https://www.astm.org/c1607-12r20.html
Mr. Hansen's article Microwave Safe (digitalfire.com)
A Forum thread on the subject: Microwave safe. - Clay and Glaze Chemistry - Ceramic Arts Daily CommunityThe ASTM article may include a standard/industry definition, idk.
This is where I am with it: "...not melt or otherwise lose form, not leach bad stuff, not get too hot to touch after one minute in the waver [microwave oven] ...anything that gets more than pleasantly warm (empty, clean) is not microwave safe...!"
I still have microwave test clean dry wares on my "to do" list.
I have an inexpensive infrared thermometer now...- Rae Reich, Kelly in AK and PeterH
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I'm using a white stoneware, IMCO "DC 3-5" ...of the several white stoneware clays I've tried, my glazes fit it; the others*, I had crazing.
How suitable it is for large forms? ...it's fine for as large as I go. It does dry well, in that it holds its shape and is less prone to cracking than many others.
*My glazes fit one other white stoneware I've tried, Clay Planet's "Venus White" - IMCO is closer, and we go by there several times a year...
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Hi SacredDrop, Welcome to the Forum!
The motor might need a clean up, and/or new brushes? ...could have a bad switch, faulty winding (particularly if the two speeds are achieved via two separate windings)?
Identifying and correcting the problem(s) might extend the life of the motor*.
Finding an electric motor shop that can help - I see there are several in the Boise area - might take some looking and luck.
Can the motor be repaired? Is it worthwhile?
From Boise Electric Motor Repair webpage: "We repair pumps and motors of any kind."
*the sparking and heat (and hence, smells) may reduce the life of the motor...
- Bill Kielb and Rae Reich
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Please do post an update on the re-fire...
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A glaze that is close to crazing, or crazes only a little - the crazing will be worse by putting the glaze on thickly.
That's my understanding and experience but putting on a thin layer mostly masks the problem, where the crazing will come along later, starting in the thicker parts and spreading as time marches on.When I was re-formulating to eliminate crazing, several times I thought we had done it, but crazing began to appear ...the next day, after a few days, after a week!
With a good fit, the thick parts don't craze, the glaze withstands temperature extremes and months - years - of daily use.Firing higher, I don't know, good question.
Would the glaze and/or clay COE change from having more heat work?
Perhaps some others have experience/knowledge and will weigh in.Crazing can look nice! When it's not a functional flaw, isn't it "crackle" glaze?
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I prefer some IR Comp - where it's helping but some throttle is required to hold rpm - so I tweaked it up a smidgle.
That said, I felt comfortable with feathering the pedal without it; I just like it.The persons I bought my wheel from had bought it from Clay King ...I see they have green Classic and green Professional available today.
If I were shopping new, I'd be looking for what beats that 1/3 hp Classic.
I like, uhm, really like the cast splash pan.
I like the ssx drive, but the standard is fine for me. If upgrading, I'd choose it over the horsepower bump though. -
Good question.
The larger motors may be louder - or they may be quieter under the same load?
Someone with direct experience may yet weigh in...From what I've read, Skutt wheels are noisier than similarly rated competitor's wheels; I don't know that to be a fact...
I like my Skutt, a lot! It was much louder in clockwise than counter clockwise, at first; it's quieted down with use.
Previous experience limited to Brent A,B,C and CXC models at the Junior College ceramic lab.
I liked them all just fine, but didn't give the A model much of a test...
The noise level varied quite a bit; all had been used a lot, for a long time.
Added: Skutt support has a good reputation; you might ring them during business hours and ask them! -
Hi Dot,
Welcome to the Forum!
Crazed wares, almost certainly weaker*, and liquids can be a concern, particularly where the fired clay's absorption rate is "high"...
For sculpture (and other non-food ware), however, crazing may be ok?Reversing crazing, that may not be possible.
My understanding is that crazing occurs when the clay and glaze COE** are different enough, and that can only be corrected by changing the glaze and/or clay.
If the clay matures at a higher cone (than 04, in your case), the fit may change when fired higher, but not necessarily a better fit!Check back for more responses...
*A well fitted glaze makes for stronger ware
**Coefficient Of Expansion
Co-efficient of Thermal Expansion (digitalfire.com)
see also Mr. Hansen's articles on glaze crazing, glaze fit, glaze compression -
!
That was my choice as well, excepting the vent, as I retained the vent from prior kiln setup...
Moving from fully manual to three zone numeric control ...oh, how I like the sound of clicking relays!
Does anyone know about Bailey Kiln
in Equipment Use and Repair
Posted
Hi William,
Welcome to the Forum!
I was in the market for a brand-new kiln last year.
The Bailey was firmly on my final list - it is made by Tucker's (Cone Art) for Bailey.
Here's an archived* thread: Thoughts On Bailey's Kilns - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
I went with L&L; it was close though!
I'm not recalling ever seeing a gas/electric kiln.
There was an electric kiln that was set up to do reduction, however, I don't believe they are made any longer.
The fuel's purpose was to provide CO for reduction, not heat - it was a small flame.
*the internal search doesn't return archived (closed) threads.
To return closed threads, try searching from your browser, e.g.
Bailey and kiln and ceramicartsdaily.org