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Everything posted by neilestrick

  1. If the existing motor is swapped for a inline fan with similar CFM but the rest of the system is used as-is, no further modifications would be necessary since the mixing is done at the collection cup under the kiln.
  2. I'm not seeing that code in their manual. What model kiln, what model controller?
  3. If you get an inline fan, get one rated for the same draw, around 140CFM.
  4. That sounds normal to me. It's just a simple squirrel cage blower, so not the most advanced blower technology. When they go bad the bearings wear out and they make a lot more noise than that. I couldn't hear it in the video, but if you're getting any additional noise from vibrations in the wall, you could put it on the floor on a piece of foam to isolate it more.
  5. It definitely makes some sound, but you should still be able to have a conversation while next to it. It's possible you got a bad one. Can you post a short video so we can hear it?
  6. You won't get all the elements glowing unless it's on high. Get yourself an inexpensive digital pyrometer and a heavy duty (8 gauge) type K thermocouple from Amazon and stick it in the spy hole to track temperature rise.
  7. Have you been firing this as an electric kiln? Have you measured/calculated the amperage draw to know what size breaker to have it on? My guess is it's a Paragon, but I'm not super confident in that guess. Send the pics to them and see what they say. It may be a Vulcan or one of those other brands that are no longer made. If you need elements and bricks and whatnot, I'd contact Euclids. They should be able make elements based on measurements.
  8. Looks like a good design to me. Easy to change die holder, and notched back bar.
  9. Yes, kilns smell when they've sat for a long time. Make sure the control boxes don't have dust and crud and spiderwebs and moues poop in them from sitting. Periodically feel the power cord and plug and make sure they're not heating up too much during the firing. Slightly warm is normal.
  10. Crazy! With all things in ceramics, there are exceptions to the rules, and ways to push the limits successfully. I think what made your situation possible was that they were a low-fire, porous tile. Just like raku pots surviving. I think if you were to try it with vitrified porcelain tiles you would have a different result. I also agree with Mark that crash cooling is hard on the kilns and furniture and using that way will shorten their lifespan. Clearly, your employer has found that the profit margins make it worthwhile, though. No judgement, the kiln is just a tool.
  11. Many kiln companies use 50 amp power cords on their kilns because that is the largest size cord that is used on kilns, and they only want to stock one size of power cord. Being larger than is needed isn't a big deal. Electrical code requires that kilns are on a breaker that is 25% greater than the actual amperage draw of the kiln. So you 24 amp kiln should be on a 30 amp breaker. The 6 gauge wire that was run may or may not fit in a 30 amp breaker, though. If it won't fit, code also says that it can be a breaker that is up to 50% greater, so it could be on a 40 amp breaker and still be u
  12. When they sit flat like that, the top and edges are going to heat faster and possibly heat more than the bottom and center, so that could definitely account for the warping. Slower firing or a perforated slab or some sort of stilt that allows for better heat distribution would help.
  13. There are also organic materials in the glaze that burn out. The longer you can get air flow in the kiln the better. We've seen lots of examples of how down draft vents improve color development in glazes since they pull fresh air into the kiln.
  14. Not bad! When are you applying the underglazes? Working on leather hard will slow down the drying a lot. The wetter the pot the slower the underglazes will dry, which will let you manipulate them more. That said, the problem with doing a lot of blending on the pot is that the way it looks before firing is not necessarily how it's going to look after firing. What looks like the perfect teal where you blended blue and green may actually just be mostly blue after firing since the blue is a stronger colorant. It may be worth trying a more impressionistic style rather than going for clean blends.
  15. It's a great kiln for use with a wall mounted digital controller or an Olympic ElectroSitter, since the on/off switches don't give you a lot of control.
  16. It's an Evenheat/Gare. Evenheat still has parts for these. Looks to be in excellent condition!
  17. It'll be very difficult to get a good application of glaze since the pieces won't be porous. It's possible to do it with brushing glazes, but it'll be difficult to get an even application, they'll take forever to dry, and the glaze will often lose its grip on the pot when applying the 2nd or 3rd coats.
  18. Leave it out for the first 1000F degrees, then close it up. See if that solves the problem. If not, leave it open as it's good to have oxygen in the kiln. Are you running a downdraft vent? If so, keep it plugged for the entire firing so it doesn't spoil the draft. If you're loading the kiln and it's not a full load, spread the load out more or less evenly throughout the kiln. Having an empty section will affect how evenly it heats.
  19. @DianaB I believe the 181 is a cone 6 kiln, so not suitable for firing to cone 6 because it'll only get to cone 6 if the elements are in perfect condition. You'll only get about 35 firings before they need to be replaced, compared to 130-150 firings if it was a cone 10 kiln or 75-90 firings if it was a cone 8 kiln. Check the serial plate on the kiln to verify the max cone rating. Skutt parts prices are pretty average.
  20. Skutt does the graded elements to compensate for the fact that most of their kilns are single zone, and the controller doesn't know what's happening in the top and bottom sections of the kiln. It's not nearly as precise at keeping things even as zone control, though, so you still have to be careful how you load the kiln. If you run zone control with graded elements, the top and bottom sections won't have to work as hard as with equal elements since they're running hotter. The total power consumption would probably be about the same, since the total wattage is the same with either setup. It's h
  21. Yeah, that's a pretty horrible glaze recipe. It's not suitable as a real glaze.
  22. You can still fire by color if you want to. Set it to cone 7 medium speed, then manually turn it off when it hits the color you want.
  23. Feels weird to self-quote, but this made me think of a phenomenon we see in wood burning kilns and sometimes in gas salt kilns, too- kilns that have hard brick interiors. There's often a point at which the kilns stall out, where the mass of the bricks are sucking up all the energy. Then, once the bricks become saturated with heat they start radiating and the kiln climbs easily. In grad school we had a shino kiln that had 18" thick walls- 9" of hard brick interior and 9" of soft brick exterior. The idea was that you'd fire really slow, like over two or three days days so the hard bricks go
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