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Everything posted by neilestrick

  1. A treadle wheel is probably the least portable wheel besides a kick wheel. They're large and heavy. I've used the Artista on several occasions and it works well. If you don't want something as small as a tabletop wheel, look at a low end/low horsepower regular electric wheel. The smaller the motor the lighter it will be, however it will still be a lot heavier and bulkier than a truly portable model, and will probably take two people to carry. The Brent IE has removable legs that will make it a little more compact.
  2. I've had the same experience with that. I've had some that fried the first firing, some that lasted months. I don't even try any more because the risk of it failing at a bad point in the firing.
  3. If you mean they immediately glowed, like they didn't take a few minutes, then there's something goofy going on. Even if the relays were full on, the elements still need time to heat up. If all the elements surged on I would expect it to blow the breaker, because the immediate glowing would mean an excess power draw. I've seen it happen to one element before, but never the whole kiln. Did you see that every element was doing it, or just saw the glow through the peep hole? If it was just the glow, that could be from one element. Start by unplugging the kiln and opening up the control box , incl
  4. No, not really. Relays yes, elements, no. But relays are super simple to replace. There are lots of good video tutorials on replacing elements, so if you're physically able to do the work it would be good to learn to do it yourself. As for your kiln, it looks like it's probably wired up with the 4 middle elements running on one relay, and the top and bottom each on their own relay, and the middle relay is dead or there's a fried connection. You'll need to open it up and see how it's set up, but that would be my best guess. If one relay is dead, it's a good idea to replace them all if it d
  5. Not entirely related, but his past weekend one of my students sent me the data log from a recent cone 6 firing on their kiln with standard mechanical relays, and I compared it to the logs from my SSR kiln. Both kilns are L&L, rated to cone 10, with zone control. I saw a couple of interesting things: 1. Their kiln could keep up with a 400F/hr ramp up to 1970F. Mine can only go about 325F/hr. I don't think it is a power issue or relay issue, though. My student's kiln only has two sections, whereas mine has 3. Their 2 relays run at pretty much the same percentage throughout the entire fi
  6. Kiln companies generally don't like to do anything that is out of spec. It prevents a lot of headaches for them from a tech service standpoint. If you really need to fire faster, then get a KMT1227-PK. They have a lot more power than the regular 1227, are rated to cone 10 instead of cone 8. Skutt could just make different elements for the 3 phase models that would allow them to get to cone 10, but instead they make you upgrade to the PK version.
  7. It's 6.7 cubic feet. It's the most popular size in the US. That kiln with a vent and shelf kit will run about $3600 new, so it's a good deal if it really is that new. On the controller, in Cone Fire mode hit Program Review and the last two bits of data it shows are 'Fire' and the number of firings. Like Mark said, go low and haggle from there.
  8. Is it actual anthracite in the clay, or are you talking about a commercial clay body that's called 'anthracite' because it's black in color, like the one made by RPM? Any commercial body that fires black is going to contain manganese. In the US, clay bodies have to pass safety inspections, and the black clay bodies are labeled safe to use, just like the regular clay bodies. As long as you follow good hygiene practices regarding clay dust, and fire in a vented kiln, the black bodies will be safe to use.
  9. The lustre burnout/smelly period would be a lot shorter than the burnout of stuff during a bisque firing, wouldn't it?
  10. Are the cracks all the way through, or just hairline cracks (which are normal)? Which distributor did you buy it from? I'd call them, send them the pics you posted here, and also call L&L's tech service and see what they say.
  11. I would be as concerned, if not more, about the fumes during application. Wear a respirator that's approved for vapors, wear safety glasses and gloves, in a well ventilated area. With a downdraft vent and windows I would think you'll be fine during the firing. Maybe put a small fan in one of the windows, blowing out, to move more air through the space if needed.
  12. Good idea. I wonder if some of the tendency to stick is related to the repeated heating and cooling of the metal as well, not just the load on the threads, though?
  13. Either will work. I usually use 1.5" with Easy Fire kilns, and 2" on DaVinci since they have 3 elements. The 2" will work on an easy Fire and give you a little more space on the bolt to work with.
  14. There's definitely something to this. The semi-rigid ducting acts a bit like a sounding board. I use rubber duct, Blo-R-Vac Flexible Duct Hose from McMaster-Carr, and it's definitely quieter than the metal stuff. It's rated to 250F and doesn't corrode. I run both of my kiln vent during classes and they aren't overbearing. You can hear them, but they're no worse than the fans we run to keep us cool during the summer.
  15. Mine is about 30 degrees off at cone 6, about 10 degrees at cone 04. No voltage issues, plenty of power. I've had several customers in the past 6 months experience the same thing. I think it's just a difference with the programming in the controller. I even used my old TC blocks just to see if that made a difference, since they have a different terminal material. @Pres If you plan to do your own program anyway, just run a firing with cones you can see, and shut the kiln down manually when the cones drop and use that temp as the peak for your firings. That's what I do for my glaze firings.
  16. Maybe fried an element or relay as it got hotter, then couldn't keep up. Unplug it, open up the control box, and see if there are any fired wires. Then start it up at 100% and see if all the elements glow after a few minutes.
  17. @GEP This is not uncommon. Get a stainless #10 panhead machine screw. It's near impossible to find the hex heads that will fit the same. The panhead won't sit into the recess on the back side of the block, but that's okay. Put a lock washer and nut on the front side to hold everything tight before putting on the elements. Get new fender washers and nuts, too. It's good to put a fender washer on either side of each element and just make one loop with the element. That will keep the nuts from tightening at an angle and being more likely to cross thread/strip/seize.
  18. I would call around to some of the online retailers and see if they have one in stock. It's a less-common size, so there's a good chance they don't, in which case the lead time is going to be a few months. Otherwise use Skutt's distributor locator page HERE.
  19. The can handle two kilns, so yes on one kiln they are starved. They work, though. Thousands of these out there functioning as intended...
  20. There are a few inaccuracies with her descriptions of ceramics and ceramic processes, but the focus is which paints to use for the best results on bisque, so it's not really an issue. For someone looking to paint on bisque it would be a very helpful article.
  21. The glaze looks fairly thick to me. I shoot for a creamy chocolate milk consistency and a 6 count dip. For many glazes the bubbles will melt out, for some they won't, just depends on the glaze.
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