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neilestrick

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Everything posted by neilestrick

  1. The floor is bad. Definitely cracked all the way through. That doesn't mean it's junk, though. Whoever buys it should put a piece of sheet metal under the floor to support it. The walls are in great shape, and the bricks don't appear to show signs of having been fired much. The chunk out of the lid isn't an issue as long as it isn't large enough to create a leak. If it is that big, then the lid could be flipped over, which just requires removing the hinge and hardware and reattaching them. It would only take about 15 minutes to do. The thermocouple should be straight, so it needs to be replace
  2. Drying too quickly is always the culprit with my mugs. There are a lot of possible causes, though, and every clay body behaves differently. It could be the evenness of the piece, how you remove it from the wheel, even how you throw it. Next time you get a warped one do a close examination and see if you can figure out what makes it different than the others.
  3. We put bentonite in a glaze because it suspends well, then we flocculate the glaze to get the other ingredients (that don't suspend well) to stick to it.
  4. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-latching-relays/0376947/
  5. There is no benefit to working any hotter than cone 6 in an electric kiln. Get a porcelain that matures at cone 6, though, not one that can go to 10 or 11. That way it'll be fully vitrified and much less likely to absorb oils. Your kiln will go to cone 10 assuming it doesn't have the optional blank collar, which is good because you'll get lots of firings to cone 5/6 before you need to change the elements, about 130-150 if doing low fire bisque and cone 5/6 glaze. If you fire to cone 10, you'll only get less than half that many firings and wear out the bricks much faster. So get a different por
  6. First empty it out and vacuum it out and post a picture of the floor. NEVER move a kiln with stuff inside it, as you'll crack the bricks when things slide around in there. It looks like the modern version of that kiln only goes to cone 6, which means it's really only good for low fire work. When firing to cone 6 you'll only get about 30 firings before the elements have to be changed. Call Cress and ask what the max temp is.
  7. @JRW 4-5 hours? That's insane! If it needed 4-5 hours of work it would be in such bad condition that it should be thrown in the dumpster. You can do them yourself in less time than that, even if you've never done it before. A kiln that size should bill one hour. If you've never done it before it may take twice as long, however it's not all that difficult and there are online videos if you're feeling handy.
  8. The eFL are fabulous kilns, if you can get them into the space. Since they don't unstack, most people with a home studio are limited to keeping them in the garage, which may or may not be ideal. They also cost more than a top loader, but they are an excellent price point for a front loader. Glad you like yours. I've sold and installed a few and have never had any complaints.
  9. The general rule of thumb is if you can't smell it then it's working. Beyond that you get into expensive testing equipment. Your kiln is small, so I really do think that both systems might be overkill. Since the powered vent wall fan is so close to the kiln, I think it would be worth installing it first and seeing if the Nabertherm system is even needed. A good wall fan can do the job just fine. About half of the schools I work in only have wall fans or an overhead hood system, no other vent system connected to the kiln.
  10. You'll likely be happy with any one of those. Hopefully a couple of our Canadian members will chime in .
  11. Yeah, it all depends on what you want to make. I make some fat 12 pound lidded jars, and they'll fit in there. But I also do some tall narrow vases and they get to more like 18", so I'd have to really watch that and tailor the pots to fit the kiln. For most hobby potters it's not an issue, though. I'd say that 98% of the pots I make would fit no problem. Paragon has had mid-height kilns for a really long time. Most of the older kilns of that height use a blank row in the middle, which I'm not a big fan of since the middle is where the thermocouple is, and is also the area where we tend
  12. @Pjung I've added a tag to see if that gets their attention. Otherwise you could send a direct message. To do that just click on their name to get to their personal page, then click the 'Message' button.
  13. Every Olympic I've ever worked on had DPST, too. Skutt definitely doesn't use DPDT at the factory. I expect someone had replaced them. The Coneart I worked on with the cutbacks was just a couple of weeks ago. It definitely had a crappy wiring layout. It was a mess.
  14. Skutt, Paragon, and L&L all use DPST, probably because it avoids confusion with the user. The only kiln I have ever seen that had DPDT was a ConeArt, and they cut back the tabs because there wasn't enough room for the double terminal connector they put on them. I agree that it will work for this, though.
  15. I've never put a DPDT relay in a kiln. always DPST. You can do it that way, but you have to cut off one set of tabs. Kind of a shim-sham way to do it IMO.
  16. That one says DPDT, the original is DPST, correct?
  17. I did some searching. Look for Deltrol 20842-85. Should say 35 amp, DPST-NO, 240V coil.
  18. Start with the 44R*Rc11-240... I can't read it clearly. I would get one that looks like the one you have, with the terminals at the end so that it fit's properly. There are other relays out there that would do the job, however some have the terminals at the top and that may not fit in your panel properly. Like Bill said, it's a common relay.
  19. Because this kiln is so small, a good fan in the window blowing out with fresh air coming in from another source, might do the job without messing with the spy hole duct system.
  20. Going up is what really gets the draw working. Wall vent water heaters have powered vents. My concern is that if you don't get some verticality to the run it's not going to be very effective. The more vertical, the better the draft.
  21. You should be able to make a board that fits into the window opening, with the vent duct going through it. I do a lot of that for customers. Depending on the design of the window, you can add weatherstripping to it to get a tight seal so there's no back-blow through the gaps and to keep weather out.
  22. A flaking lid is definitely a problem, but replacing it with a brick lid is not a cheap fix. A new lid slab plus shipping will cost $300-500 depending on the size. Or if the floor is the same material and in better condition then you can swap them. They also make products that stabilize and harden fiber that may help. Is the lid still structurally sound? Unless the lid has degraded considerably, I wouldn't think it would be the cause of the kiln not getting to temp. The other issue with flaking fiber is that you're breathing those fibers every time you move the lid, and that's not good for you
  23. Duncan kilns are expensive to maintain. They use twice as many elements as most kilns, and those elements are not cheap. Even at good prices they cost more than most kilns for a full set. I think Paragon's prices are outrageous for an element of that size. The problem with non-spec elements is that there's more to an element than just the resistance. There's also the thickness of the wire, the size of the mandrel used to roll them, and the spacing of the coils. If the folks who made them know what they're doing, then they should work. But if everything else on the kiln is functioning as it sho
  24. Are you dry mixing the glaze before adding it to water? Some materials like to clump more than others, so even just mixing it with one or two of the other ingredients may help.
  25. @thiamant Can you draw us a picture and post it here?
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