Bubba

I have a referral to someone who "repairs" old kilns who I will need to call in order to bring the kiln back online. I had it in my mind that I would keep the kiln "manual" with a new kiln setter, and I could always add the computer controller wall panel later. You are saying that even with the computer wiz-bang thing, I can still manually fire it?

Excellent! Plywood, great idea! THANK YOU!

Awesome! I hear you loud and clear. I'll let you know how it goes. THANK YOU! By the way, I live in Oregon now, but for a couple of decades of my younger years I lived in towns neighboring Grayslake (Gurnee and Waukegan) - such a small world.

Hi Neil - The top 3rd of the kiln comes off, and the stand is not attached. Not sure about the bottom, but it appears to be in 3 sections. I can't find much info about this model kiln - I have the original Duncan manual in front of me but it's not specific to this model. It's 7 cf.

I am the proud new owner of my first kiln, a Duncan DK 1029-1! I am in the process of figuring out what I need to do to get it home safely and bring it back to life (building a dedicated shed, hiring an electrician to properly install a 240 outlet, etc.) It has had very little use and the bricks and elements look new, but it was stored in a garage and the outside of the kiln and control panel look pretty bad. I am thinking I will have to replace the control panel (or, get professional help to do so). I'd like to get it going again as a kiln sitter, no fancy electronics. I am hoping I haven't bitten off more than I can chew, but the price was right. I'm happy to have any advice, but my intial question is what is the best way to safely haul a kiln? Luckily it doesn't have to go far, but it does have to ride in the back of a pick-up truck up and down some of Oregon's infamously bad gravel roads.

I really appreciate the advice I got here and I wanted to tell ya'll that my story has a happy ending. SUCCESS!!! I got the new pedal installed and it works like a charm! WHEW! Even though I ended up with the less-creative solution of just replacing the pedal, I really did learn a lot in the process and I am grateful. Also, if you factor in all that I learned and that I was successful in solving the problem and now I have a fully functioning "antique" wheel (1978), it really didn't cost so much. Also, www.Clay-Planet.com had the best price on the replacement pedal - Amaco manufacturers suggested retail price was $304, distributor prices elsewhere were upwards of $318 plus shipping, and Clay-Planet sold it for $289 + $18 S&H. I did check with Amaco first to be certain of the part #, etc.

I am considering buying a very lightly used 8+/- year old Olympic 2327HE kiln, single phase, 240 volt. The only issue the seller is disclosing is "plug that overheats." The explanation from seller is that it is a house wiring problem, not a kiln problem, but "the plug will need to be replaced." And, of course, it can't be tested. See photo. It is a ridiculously good deal, maybe? Can anyone give me an idea of what might be going on with the plug? Any opinions about this model?

Thanks, Neil. I plan to buy directly from them and will touch base with their handy Tech-Folks before I give them my $$$.

I very much appreciate the responses here - I read previous posts on same/similar issue of replacing potentiometer(s) on old Brent pedals. What I am concluding is that "repair" is beyond my ability and I'll have to order a new pedal. I just wanted to say thanks and even though I may not understand all that I read in this forum, I am always learning from the posts and answers and I appreciate ya'll! Happy New Year!

I have an older Brent C - not sure of age, but I'm 3rd owner - in good condition. The two dials inside the pedal that are supposed to control the speed are not allowing me to adjust the speed to the reccomended RPM. The "HI" (red) adjustment will allow me to adjust to correct speed, but when I use the "LOW" (blue) adjustment to create a proper "stop" when the pedal is in the "off" position, the speed drops by half. From all the reading I've done on this forum, I think these "HI" and "LOW" adjustments are called potentiometers? They look worn and may need to be replaced? My questions are: 1) could the problem be anything else? I did the Amaco/Brent reccomended cleaning of the motor brushes with no change to the problem, 2) if this is the problem, can a person with "decent willingness to try but no skills" replace this part, or should I seek professional help? 3) if I am seeking parts/ professional help, who would I call - Amaco?