Jump to content

Viking Potter

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Viking Potter

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Great Falls, Montana

Recent Profile Visitors

1,788 profile views
  1. just checking to see where you are. Great falls was colder than here 27 F right now. Yesterday it was 45 and the day before with snow was 9-12 F 3 inches but disappeared by afternoon.


    1. Denice


      It's also cold in KS suppose to get down to 21 to night, the snow missed us, stayed north of us in Nebraska.  Denice

    2. Marcia Selsor

      Marcia Selsor

      our high Sunday was 12.


  2. And as long as we are at it, From the looks of the Oregon code, the maximum depth you would have to go would be 24 inches deep, that would be a cake walk for a trencher or mini.
  3. Realizing that you may not have time or inclination to do it yourself, We recently laid a power line out to the garage and rented a trenching machine at the rental place. The line may need to be inspected, but as long as you know how deep you have to go, the machine is not hard to operate. very small excavators are also available for rent. And depending on the soil, you can often trench up to each edge of a walkway or driveway and drive a pipe from one trench to another then pass the wires through the pipe. 4 feet would usually be pretty easy to do unless there was a lot of rock or roots in the way. And as long as you are at it you could easily string the wire yourself and back-fill the trench after inspection saving even more money. Then the electrician can do electrical stuff like hook up electricity at either end. And maybe a local excavation or lawn sprinkler outfit would do all the trenching for less than the electrician, or, as is often the case around here, a neighbor with a backhoe or such would do a favor for a favor. An on line check at one rental place in Coos Bay showed trenchers and mini excavators each renting for about $250 or so per day, and sometimes we have picked stuff up on Sat and returned Monday for the single day rate. it would be really unusual that you would have a trench that you could not finish in a single day.
  4. Gee whiz, a new 50 amp receptacle is about $15 , about the same money for a breaker at Home Depot, what else are they charging you for.
  5. To expand on GEP's answer, if you remove the wheel head and examine the shaft, it will either turn true or not. If it turns true, that is, it does not wobble, they you only need fix the wheelhead issue (what ever it might be) if the shaft does not spin true then it may be bent, bearings may be bad etc. more difficult fix. To see if the shaft spins true you can place a permanent marker so that it almost touches the shaft where the wheel head attaches (tape it on a little box, use some clay, whatever) and slowly turn the shaft to see if it makes a mark anywhere on the shaft. keep moving the pen closer and turning the shaft till you see it make a mark. if it makes a mark all the way around or nearly so , then the shaft is probably running true. if it makes a mark in just one spot, or on less than 3/4 of the shaft then the shaft may not be running true. If it makes a mark on most of the shaft but not all of it you may have a flat spot, try to check a different spot on the shaft. then do the same thing with the motor running the shaft. if you get a different result between hand turning the shaft and running the motor, I would suspect a bearing issue,
  6. I am a hands on or visual learner, so books that don't have a ton of photo's don't really help me much, initially I would have to watch someone else do something then try it myself. YouTube has been a godsend to me more so than any other part of the internet. Someone can describe a way of doing something that is total BS, but if they can do it in a video, and I can see it actually work I can usually figure out some way to do it myself. Likewise, when they show something that is just useless, I know right away not to try it that way as opposed to my reading something that was wrong from the start and then wasting time trying to understand what they are writing about and why I can't get it to work the way they say it should.
  7. Not sure If I can add a picture to a post, but I did post a picture in the gallery, we did our first run of cone 6 material and generally all was well. only issue, we had some stilts of unknown origin, and they melted into the bottom of a couple of pots. Had used them a few times for 06 work but never thought that they would not stand up to higher temp. The wire went right into the base and the base became part of the pot. New stilts were purchased the next day. I can now claim to be a potter because I made pots and they hold water and do not leak. Neil, I am listening and learning buddy. : )
  8. Last time I heard a noise like that the armature of the motor was rubbing on the coils inside the motor housing. It was on a winch motor and the screws holding the coil to the outside housing had loosened and allowed the coil to be pulled into contact with the armature. That was a new motor with only about 5 uses. since it seems to get worse with speed I have to assume it is contact with the only moving part of your motor.
  9. Proof positive that I am a potter cause that is surely a pot.
  10. So, here we go with some basics from a guy that barely knows anything, buys ancient used equipment and then builds his own stuff cause he is too cheap to get real stuff. The only reason to own a kiln is to heat stuff. And the only use for a kiln is to heat stuff. So you first decide what you want to heat. Could be clay, metal, glass etc. Then you figure out how hot and how to get the kiln to do that. So, for clay you will learn that different clay bodies act differently depending on how much heat you use. Likewise the different glazes act differently. And that is when you start learning that a cone number relates to a certain heat range and that a cone 06 and a cone 6 are not the same thing. A kiln sitter is a mechanical device on the side of the kiln that drops a weight and turns off the electricity in the electric kiln when the inside has reached a certain temp range as determined by the cone that you placed on the holder inside the kiln. It works as follows: the kiln gets hot, the cone sits horizontally on two arms that hold it at each end and a rod sits on top of the cone between the two arms. When the inside gets hot enough the cone bends in the middle and the rod moves down where the cone bends. On the outside of the kiln the other end of the rod moves up releasing the weight that drops down and shuts off the power switch. This is the way that you control the maximum temp of your kiln equipped with a kiln sitter. The rate of the temperature increase is controlled by the switches on the kiln, often low, med, and high. When you switch from one to the other determines when the heat starts to increase from any given point. As Stephen stated, and electronic controller can be used to perform the same functions, allowing you to set specific increases in heat, how long each temperature should remain constant and the ultimate top temp within the limits of the kilns design. Witness cones inside a kiln are the equivalent of a meat thermometer in a roast. With your oven dial set on 350, you might still want to know that the inside of the roast is at a certain temp. Witness cones are usually set in a manner inside the kiln so that you can see that one cone bends as you approach your desired temp, the next cone bends as you arrive at the desired temp, and the third cone stays upright unless you exceed the desired temp and then that cone bends to show you things got too hot. For a first go at stuff, get some clay, make some stuff, let it dry (probably a week or so) fire it with the understanding that water boils at about 230 degrees (depending on elevation and other factors) so you want to make sure that your clay is well dried before you try to ramp up any heat above 250 degrees. Then heat the stuff up to your target temp. Wait a long, long, long, long time for things to cool back down then open the kiln and see what you get. I go nuts waiting to see . Remember the old commercial with the lady who has her face pressed against the store glass, chanting "Open open open open". That's me .
  11. I went shopping this weekend and bought some appliances at the thrift store including a hand mixer, a blender, a shake maker and a wand thingy with a propeller on the end. I also have the obligatory collection of paint stir things for the drill. I use a variety of stuff on slip etc, but what do you all use to mix glaze?
  12. First thing I did when I got my kiln was buy a notebook with a good solid cover and started a kiln log. Every time I turn the kiln on I write down what I do, what time I do it and then what happens. This way I can repeat what works and not repeat what goes bad.
  13. I often wonder (usually when some pretentious "artist" is trying to explain why his work is noteworthy and valuable above comparable pieces) why art is defined so narrowly. I come from a long line of creative ancestors. They were carpenters and engineers and contractors and painters and bushiness owners and homemakers and just about everything else imaginable. And they had one thing in common, they found ways to express themselves in multiple forms that were in addition to the written word. And it didn't matter if anyone else understood the expression, what mattered was the need, the drive, compulsion, whatever to create. And by my way of thinking, every creation, utility or non, that creation should be considered art. because that way, every person is capable of and does create art. And no one need buy it, collect it, or even like it, so long as there is recognition that the creation is art and can be appreciated as an expression. And this then leads to the catch 22, when an expression is repugnant, is it art? Yes, art can be vile and repugnant and still be called art.
  14. And if you do have to use a trailer, put the kiln in front of the axle as far as you can for the same reason Mark stated. The truck suspension will dampen some of the trailer bounce close to the tongue. Anything behind the axle is subject to much more bounce. (we all used to fight for the back of the school buss so we could get tossed as the buss went over the bumps)
  15. I and at least two other that I know put stuff, unsmashed, out at the base of a tree in a yard, or some other spot where they become part of the landscape. sometimes pieces are removed, sometimes they become occupied, and in a couple of cases additional pieces appear from aliens or gnomes or wherever. We don't produce enough to bury the tree yet.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.