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Viking Potter

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Everything posted by Viking Potter

  1. I am a hands on or visual learner, so books that don't have a ton of photo's don't really help me much, initially I would have to watch someone else do something then try it myself. YouTube has been a godsend to me more so than any other part of the internet. Someone can describe a way of doing something that is total BS, but if they can do it in a video, and I can see it actually work I can usually figure out some way to do it myself. Likewise, when they show something that is just useless, I know right away not to try it that way as opposed to my reading something that was wrong from th
  2. Not sure If I can add a picture to a post, but I did post a picture in the gallery, we did our first run of cone 6 material and generally all was well. only issue, we had some stilts of unknown origin, and they melted into the bottom of a couple of pots. Had used them a few times for 06 work but never thought that they would not stand up to higher temp. The wire went right into the base and the base became part of the pot. New stilts were purchased the next day. I can now claim to be a potter because I made pots and they hold water and do not leak. Neil, I am listening and learning budd
  3. From the album: Our cone 6 odyssey begins

    This is proof positive that I am a potter because this is surely a pot.
  4. Proof positive that I am a potter cause that is surely a pot.
  5. Most important in this discussion is to avoid at all costs using recycled litter.
  6. I cant center this way, I still get the clay moving my hands, hands moving the arms, arms moving the knee, knee moving the leg. I make sure my elbows are tucked into my hip or pelvis area so that the clay has to move my hand/arm/hip/butt/stool/concrete floor.
  7. There are so many examples of how to open that it is impossible to say that there is a wrong way to do it. So I will tell you how I do it and how my wife with weak and problematic hands does it. I open with the speed still fairly high. lots of water/slip to keep everything from grabbing. Make sure if you feel anything start to grab that you make it slippery again. I go in with both thumbs and then open moving my thumbs to each side with even pressure. And I occasionally mess up this way and induce a wobble. My wife opens with what could be called the hooked fingers or Claw method. she
  8. Ok, makes perfect sense. We had a family meeting and have decided to step up our game and work at ^6. Which resulted in a planned road trip to get new glaze from our favorite spot, Archie Bray. We are doing both 06 ceramics and will now do ^6 pottery so I am setting up a second Kiln to keep things separated. Thanks to all for the valuable education.
  9. When my family took a class we were given a block of clay and each of us had some left over that we took home. Since we were used to it, we bought more of the same and have continued to use it as we have progressed. Now, as I learn about clay bodies, I find that this is a mid fire clay that is to be fired to Cone 6. We have been using it as a low fire clay, with bisque to 04, and our low fire glazes at 06. So my question is, why not continue to use this clay (or even others) at low fire temperatures? We are having plenty of success, and satisfaction with our low fire efforts, and frankly,
  10. I think that the talent relates more to the vision or imagination that the person has. The ability to see what does not exist. I know many people who do not have talent, or the ability to imagine something that they cannot already perceive. I can play an instrument, but I do not hear music in my head. My father in law can paint a house but cannot envision a painting, My mother could see and create beautiful things from nearly any kind of material. So, as stated, skill is hard work, but creative talent may require an inner vision, imagination, whatever you want to call it, and there are s
  11. Yep, been there done that. Powdered about 20 LBS this way, ton of work, for the same results everyone else gets by letting it soak. Also wore out the bit. Hammer is good. Drill is bad.
  12. As long as it works, There are tons of ways to make sure heat does not transfer, Dead air space is one, etc
  13. You are trying to protect the floor from two different heat sources. First is the heat transfered directly to the floor via the metal legs of the stand. You need to put something under those legs that will keep heat from passing through, but still be strong and stable enough to hold your kiln. I would think the fire bricks would be sufficient for that purpose. You also have to protect against radiant heat that is comming from the kiln in every direction. That heat will warm the entire area around the kiln and the closer things are the hotter they will get. So underneath the kiln you need
  14. I am building a second wheel and have reached that part of the plan where I need to decide the size and shape of the table or work area under the wheel head. I see some video where there is very little if anything under the wheel head, as well as video where there seems to be almost a 50 gallon barrel underneath. If you were to create a wheel from scratch, what would you like and what would you avoid.
  15. Do you know how much weight nickel cad wire can hold? The wire would need to hold the flutes vertically or the flutes would bend. The idea has potential. Jed P.S. I will accept suggestions from anyone who has an idea... I don't know the specs on the wire, but presumably thicker wire is available. As for bending, if the flutes are already bisque, not sure how they would bend, but the force/weight would be very similar if not identical to standing them on thier end on a peg etc. My idea would be to run some sort of support across the top of the kiln and suspend the flutes vert
  16. At the risk of enraging someone by offering an idea that I have not personally tried, could you suspend the flutes in the kiln by appropriate wires? We bake ceramic coating and other industrial coating on auto and machine parts this way. The temp in the kiln is higher, but using appropriate material, it looks like you could put the wire down the middle where the glaze will not touch.
  17. Many years ago I helped with the circus when it came to town. Amoung the more noteable jobs was hauling the elephant waste to a dump site out of town. That is the first thing that still comes to mind whenever someone makes reference to a crapton of stuff.
  18. I have reached that point in my process that things are starting to turn out the way I intended. I hope to start giving some of my projects away and suddenly realize I have no idea what people would prefer to recieve. For example, I am thinking no one would really care about my bottles but me cause the fun is in making them. Likewise, my mugs and cups. I get great joy in having them turn out like I envisioned, but not sure anyone would really want to drink out of them. So, what do folks seem to want? I am hoping to fill some X-mas presents with my summer efforts.
  19. I have the same issue and I solved it by getting...... a rain barrel. Sam's Club has them locally. They are 60 gallons, have a garden hose faucet on the bottom and fill at the top. I have mine sitting on a cabinet and I fill it various ways including melt water from buckets of snow that I collect and filter. As for a pump, there are lots of pumps that hook up to garden hoses that you can get in either 12 volt or 115 volt and you can pump water into your rain barrel or out, or both. I am thinking of building a recirculating water system that would run from 2 or three plastic barrels and u
  20. I just posted pictures of my AMACO with the treadmill motor added in my post about the old Wheel being made new again. I think this is the way to go because you don't have to re-engineer a whole bunch of stuff. Truthfully, I think you could almost hook the motor directly to the head and have a working wheel as far as torque goes. Not sure the motor would live with all the down force associated with centering etc. I have been playing with this for about a week now and I am thrilled so far. http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/5849-old-potters-wheel-is-new-again/
  21. If this works, here are pictures of the wheel and the motor mounted. I am using a piece of plastic tube as a coupler hoping that if something bad happens it will slip before someone gets an arm torn off.
  22. Haven't tried it, but if you needed one you could make a mold of an existing pin and then cast a ceramic one. You would want it to be fairly thick for obvious reasons, and there could be safety issues because if it does break it would likely be sharp as heck.
  23. From a different perspective, depending on your need to keep the attachment invisible or not, You could use expanding polyurethane foam spray to fill a cavity that is fairly large. You would have to somehow position the head and the pipe in relation to each other and then spray the foam in so that it can expand and set up without movement. This may not acutally glue the pieces together, but that foam is sticky as heck, and once curred it would form fit around all of the pipes etc. for additional "grippage", screws or bolts could be added to the pipe to give more area for the foam to stick t
  24. As a newbie I didn't know the first thing about equipment so when a friend gave me an old Model 402 Amaco potters wheel that had been converted to motor drive, I didn't know that it was considered to be a relic. It has been cut down so you can sit at the wheel and an angle drive was added so the motor is horizontal. initially it had a single speed AC motor hooked up and that spun the head clockwise at a pretty quick pace. Not knowing any better, I started making stuff but admitt that it got to be a challange cause wide thin things tended to spin out of shape very easily. And right now $400
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